concealed but accessible gas valve for kitchen stove install?

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redwood1922

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I moved my stove so it's a straight shot up to the range-hood vent pipe, ditched a very ugly diagonal vent pipe that was there. Now I have a litle bit of ugly gas-supply pipe exposed now.

Is it safe to have plumber conceal a log-lighter type shutoff valve in the wall, near the floor, and immediately adjacent to kitchen stove? Handle would be accessible near floor without moving stove. Concealed valve w/accessible handle would feed about 2 feet of hard pipe concealed in wall. Pipe would poke through the kitchen wall hidden behind the stove, to connect directly to the stove's flexline. I would make the valve accessible with a cubbyhole door in wall, fully accessible from the pantry behind the stove.

One plumber said he didn't want to do it. More experienced plumber said yes but he's dragging his feet...starting to wonder if he was just humoring me.

Maybe I could use some words of wisdom - how do I get what I want, or am I wrong to want it? Fact is I don't consider kitchen shutoff valves behind stove to be safe to use - have to move stove first. Also I don't like anyone moving flexlines that are under pressure. Why is that ever a good idea? I would use main shutoff in most situations.

But I'm certainly not gonna fight city hall or the plumbing code etc...if the only choices are a) valve directly behind stove or b) cutting stove sheet metal with visible pipes poking through...I'll have plumber relocate valve to the customary position behind the stove. Lot of money for a required unsafe thing IMO.
 
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You can always add a shut off valve after it stubs out of the wall behind the range, to keep it low profile install an elbow and shut off parallel to the wall and reattach flex line. No dope or tape on flex connections.��Redundant but can be done...in the Bay Area I've never seen a log liter(that's what we call them) valve installed for a range?? Interesting. Also, make sure you get a long enough flex like 4 ft so you can slide the stove out and access valve. I've seen many that develope pin hole leaks and usually it's from being old and moved around a lot and also corrosion from water drips but that was at a water heater.
 
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I agree you can put as many valves in a row as you like and the pipes do not have to be visible. If they want one right behind the stove request yours where you want it. I would install a regular valve that you can use right inside an access hole. Not sure about the log lighter valve but I guess if it works for logs it will work for a stove.
 
Thanks folks - so the 2nd plumber seems to be correct.

To be fair I suppose kitchen shutoff valves aren't completely useless, like if the stove springs a gas leak and I still need hot water until I get a new stove. I thought of that after I posted.
 
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