Spacing for posts under beam

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m2244

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Hello,

I am building a cantilever deck 20 x 15 and I have some questions about the framing. Material is 2 x 10 joists 16OC The beam will be (2)2 x 10. The posts are 6 x 6.

1. There will be about a 2' overhang
2. The support posts will be 9' apart, roughly 3' to 4' of 6 x 6
3. I plan on notching the top of the posts so that the double 2 x 10s have something to sit on
4. I am not planning on putting diagonals under the beam since they are notched.

Does all of this sound correct?
 
If your thinking, you see how it bounces and maybe put in another beam later. Dig those holes before you build the deck. Bouncy floors move a lot and pul at the bolts holding to the house and tend to just pull things apart. Angle braces are cheap insurance.
 
This is essentially a duplicate post of what you asked before, but I'll give you the same response that I did earlier:

Why not make it free-standing? Many advantages, very few disadvantages. I personally like the fact that there will be no rotten ledger boards to replace in the future, and you won't be making holes in your house's envelope for water to get in and cause damage. Leave a small gap at the deck edge on the house side, and your rim board there will likely never rot, either. Having to build an extra beam and install 3 more columns is a small price to pay.

Should you decide to go free-standing, you can make the most of your layout (and build the stiffest deck) by going with 2' cantilevers on both beams and both ends of the joists. Doing that will shorten the effective span lengths of joists and beams, resulting in less deflection under load and less overall "wiggle." Columns will be spaced at 8' c.-c. in each row, beams located 11' apart.
 
Last edited:
BridgeMan said:
This is essentially a duplicate post of what you asked before, but I'll give you the same response that I did earlier:

Why not make it free-standing? Many advantages, very few disadvantages. I personally like the fact that there will be no rotten ledger boards to replace in the future, and you won't be making holes in your house's envelope for water to get in and cause damage. Leave a small gap at the deck edge on the house side, and your rim board there will likely never rot, either. Having to build an extra beam and install 3 more columns is a small price to pay.

Should you decide to go free-standing, you can make the most of your layout (and build the stiffest deck) by going with 2' cantilevers on both beams and both ends of the joists. Doing that will shorten the effective span lengths of joists and beams, resulting in less deflection under load and less overall "wiggle." Columns will be spaced at 8' c.-c. in each row, beams located 11' apart.
Click to expand...

THis is not a duplicate post, the devil is in the details. Thanks anyway.
 
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