Need help before roof inspection

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Frank0

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Hi!
My asphalt shingle roof is about 30 years old and I need to get it inspected. Last year a roofer put on some shingles, due to a storm, and said there was a soft spot on the roof. When I get it inspected how can I tell if they are telling me the truth about the condition?
Thanks!
 
Go up on the roof with them and have them explain what they are finding. Then educate yourself on what they have told you or consult with someone you know that knows something about roofing. If the roof is 30yrs. old, it is time for a new one.
 
OK I will go onto the roof with him. I take it any damage will be pretty obvious? I am planning to sell or rent the house once done, it has the original shingles so it's OK to just put another set on top? (assumig no other signifcant damage)

Thank you!
 
Frank, sure you can put 1 layer on top, if there is only one there now. I am a roofing contractor and usually advise against it. The problem you run into is you are only changing the color of the roof and not correcting any deficiencies that may be hidden by the old roof. Any damaged decking, inadequate ventilation, missing or damaged flashing cannot be corrected. Adding a layer of shingles will cut about a third of the life expediency off the new roof installation. Also, a lot of installers will not use longer roofing nails when nailing over and shingle blow off will occur more frequently...just so you know the cause and effect of adding a layer of shingles to your roof.
 
I agree with OldDog . . . Do the proper tear-off so you can fix bad sheathing and get your flashing right. A "soft spot" says bad sheathing someplace, often along the perimeter where rot starts. Tear-off is hard exercise but not that bad. Just make sure you pile everything onto a large tarp on the ground if you can. Saves cleanup and nasty trash in your yard. Better yet, get the dumpster next to the house!
 
Great, was not looking forward to paying for whole new roof before selling.


Will report after new inspection tomorrow.


Thanks!
 
Not sure why you wasting time getting it "inspected".
A 30 year old roof needs to be replaced not just looked at.
Is it 1 X 6's or plywood sheathing under the shingles?
What I do on my quotes is charge by the sheet of sheathing if it needs to be replaced.
Unless it was just a bad patch job where an old vent was I always rplece the whole sheet, not just patch in a piece. It's faster because there's no cutting and then your sure the whole defect is gone.
If they find it's 1 X 6's and there lots of bad areas, then it's common to just go over the whole roof with 1/2 sheathing over the old. The roof will come out looking flatter, and will have more nail holding ability.

I agree with the other posters about removing the old shingles. You already know there's bad sheathing so those old shingles need to go.
It's a personal thing, but I just pass on jobs that people want to do a roof over or refuse to let me add drip cap to a roof.
I do not get paid to go back and fix loose shingles, fix nail pops, or replace rotten roof edges after the new shingles are installed so why set myself for a failing roof.
 
joecaption said:
Not sure why you wasting time getting it "inspected".
A 30 year old roof needs to be replaced not just looked at.
Is it 1 X 6's or plywood sheathing under the shingles?
What I do on my quotes is charge by the sheet of sheathing if it needs to be replaced.
Unless it was just a bad patch job where an old vent was I always rplece the whole sheet, not just patch in a piece. It's faster because there's no cutting and then your sure the whole defect is gone.
If they find it's 1 X 6's and there lots of bad areas, then it's common to just go over the whole roof with 1/2 sheathing over the old. The roof will come out looking flatter, and will have more nail holding ability.

I agree with the other posters about removing the old shingles. You already know there's bad sheathing so those old shingles need to go.


It's a personal thing, but I just pass on jobs that people want to do a roof over or refuse to let me add drip cap to a roof.
I do not get paid to go back and fix loose shingles, fix nail pops, or replace rotten roof edges after the new shingles are installed so why set myself for a failing roof.
Click to expand...


Estimate
$2,700 re-shingle
$3,600 tear off

For $900 more I'll get the tear off. He said that he didn't feel any soft spots and if they find any he said it would probably be just a sheet or two to replace. I had not read your post before he came so I didn't ask what the composition is under the shingels.
 
Frank0 said:
Estimate
$2,700 re-shingle
$3,600 tear off

For $900 more I'll get the tear off. He said that he didn't feel any soft spots and if they find any he said it would probably be just a sheet or two to replace. I had not read your post before he came so I didn't ask what the composition is under the shingels.
Click to expand...

How many sq. ft. or sq. is the bid for?
U may want to get everything in writing as to what he is going to do.
New drip edge, rake edge, stack boots, water shield, poundage of felt, size of overlaps, rating of shingle, warranty of labor, ridge vent, etc....
 
Last edited:
kok328 said:
How many sq. ft. or sq. is the bid for?
U may want to get everything in writing as to what he is going to do.
New drip edge, rake edge, stack boots, water shield, poundage of felt, size of overlaps, rating of shingle, warranty of labor, ridge vent, etc....
Click to expand...

The house is a little over 2,000 feet, I didn't ask for the roof dimensions. The last roofer, who did some shingle repair, gave me an estimate of $3k just to reshingle.

New guy is going to email me the full estimate. Thanks for the comments about getting it in writiing!
 
Be sure to have his ins company send you a copy of his workers compensation certificate before work begins, not a hand delivered copy. Make sure you have a written proposal detailing all the materials they will use, new flashings, ventilation, starters, capping, drip edge, warranty and the price per foot of any decking that may require replacement. Ask how they install the shingles, vertical rack or staircase, anything other than a staircase pattern is not acceptable, period.

Now this is important, DO NOT PAY IN FULL UNTIL YOU HAVE INSPECTED THE ROOF AND EVERYTHING IS CLEANED UP.
 
Also make sure the waste disposal and clean up is included in the price.
In the past I saw a roofing company that just left the shingles on the ground and wanted an extra $500.00 to clean them up and had never mentioned the extra cost until the job was done.

Any real roofing company will take the extra time to lay tarps over any decks, stoops, shrubs, and lay them on the ground where the shingles are being dropped to aid in the clean up process.
Once all the big stuff is cleaned up they should be going around with a magnet trying to get all the stray nails.
They should also clean out all the gutters if there are any, and clean up any black marks on the siding and gutters if there is any.

No matter how good they clean up there will still be a few stray nails. I often leave behind a rolling magnet for the home owner for a few days.
 
joecaption said:
Also make sure the waste disposal and clean up is included in the price.
In the past I saw a roofing company that just left the shingles on the ground and wanted an extra $500.00 to clean them up and had never mentioned the extra cost until the job was done.

Any real roofing company will take the extra time to lay tarps over any decks, stoops, shrubs, and lay them on the ground where the shingles are being dropped to aid in the clean up process.
Once all the big stuff is cleaned up they should be going around with a magnet trying to get all the stray nails.
They should also clean out all the gutters if there are any, and clean up any black marks on the siding and gutters if there is any.

No matter how good they clean up there will still be a few stray nails. I often leave behind a rolling magnet for the home owner for a few days.
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe!
 
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