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Old 12-25-2016, 08:35 PM  
rokosz
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yup, I did condition. Makes me wonder if on that partulcar panel I missed cond. or blotched the conditioner application. Funny thing about it was the stain was ok -- it was the Tung - can't remember pure or canned. It was a later door of 5 or 6 and could've been either type. Maybe I can spot it now whereever it is hung and note the grain for some pattern and watch those going forward..



Sanding Sealers and grain fillers -- same thing as conditioner? will check..

Whats the canned Tung cut with? Maybe that adulterant allows better penetration.

Ask the builder does seem to say "sand 'er down" -- doesn't say anything about wet sanding 800 or 1200 , but still alot more than I was doing.

thanks.


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Old 12-25-2016, 11:12 PM  
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Sanding Sealers and grain fillers are two distinctly different product and processes.

Rockler.com has blurbs about both.

As you are finding, wood finishing is not an easy process to successfully master, so take your time and learn the skill and the rewards will be evident.


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Old 12-26-2016, 11:03 AM  
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Thanks Snoonyb. yes, the options are bewildering given the options of desire...
I got a lotta digesting and cogitating to do.
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Old 01-25-2017, 11:40 AM  
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Yeah not so bad on the finish. Not handrubbed, just 3 coats Minwax Tung oil thinned with a bit of Turpentine, and a 320 sanding between coats 2&3. The result is a hi-gloss finish. The earlier concerns with blotchiness didn't happen or are so subtle as to be invisible.

ah, but the DIY gods are not always benevolent: Turns out my measurement between jambs was not sufficient/accurate(?) enought to allow hanging without ripping 1/8" or 1/4" total or so from the side-by-side slabs. Before I do that, and since they're already finished (but only a few days cured) is it safe to rip-away without prepping/de-glazing the rip area? somehow I picture the saw fracturing the glaze like an icebreaker. Should i gently sand the rip line and then re-finish, I'll have to anyway on the edge. Or some sort of "softening" of the ripline (with a solvent of some sort) before cutting?

thnaks!
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:08 PM  
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You will want to soften the corners afterwards so you could pre cut the finish with a knife cut on the inside edge of what will be the saw cut.
I would also plan on cutting the hinge side in case you get a few flaws they would be less noticeable.
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:20 PM  
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Capital idea! as Gomez used to say. I'd thought of the easing - but not that it could be used to advantage. And, yup, I didn't want to rip from the hinge side because the hinges are already cut, but if its going to be FIY (fix it yourself) as properly as possible, just gonna have to re-depth the cuts. Even that though can be a good thing - Some of the original 3 cuts are consistently just a touch deep now and i get a 2nd chance to flush 'em.

Sage stuff NealTW
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:32 PM  
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The big shops that work with melamine use something called a scoring blade before cutting. I don't know what that looks like, might be just a knife sticking out of the table.

No router for hinges, a home made jig is not rocket science.
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:27 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
The big shops that work with melamine use something called a scoring blade before cutting. I don't know what that looks like, might be just a knife sticking out of the table.

No router for hinges, a home made jig is not rocket science.
Scoring blade is just a small 5 inch blade that cuts a slight swath about an eighth at the most high. before the big blade, it helps on any chip out from melamine and when we would cut Formica.


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