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Old 11-15-2014, 09:02 AM  
zannej
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Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
The 2 inches from the wall is for frost protection. If you brig the plumbing thru the cabinet from the floor you save the two inches.
Hmm.. The diagrams I saw showed it being 4" from the side wall, not the back wall. I should have been more specific. The side wall is an internal wall. It doesn't usually freeze here and I was planning to wrap the pipes in something to insulate them as well as put insulation in the wall behind.

Are you saying I would need to have the plumbing come up from the floor inside the cabinet (in front of the exterior wall)? The vanity has a drawer so that would mean I'd have to bump the vanity forward to avoid having to cut the drawer I mean, I could do that and then have a little shelf behind the vanity so I could put stuff on it.

Let me see if I can find that diagram again that talked about the 4"...
From http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/b...m#.VGdp1_l4qS7

Building Code Requirement:
The minimum distance from the centerline of the lavatory to a wall is 15". (IPC 405.3.1)
The minimum distance between a wall and the edge of a free standing or wall-hung lavatory is 4". (IRC R 307.2)


But when I scoured my state's plumbing code, I didn't find the bit about free standing or wall-hung lavatories and nothing about the 4".

Edit: I realize that the 4" is building code and not plumbing code-- but you'd think that something involving fixture placements from building code would be referenced in the plumbing code. My state's plumbing code specifically said "lavatory" and cited the 15" from center. Does that mean it doesn't use the building code?



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Old 11-15-2014, 11:26 AM  
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Sorry I gt that wrong. I would go with a vanity that went right to the corner, a 24" box set 3" from the wall with a filler to match the box and the counter top covers to the corner.
Then you have 15" min 27" top and a space for the plumbing too.


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Old 11-15-2014, 11:32 AM  
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There is some advantage to running the pipes up the inside wall, if you live in an area prone to cold weather. Not much harder to plumb from the side as it is to plumb from the back. But the back of the vanity is usually easier to get through.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:57 PM  
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like this.............
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:07 AM  
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Thanks guys. I already have the vanity (the one I showed in pics awhile back)

I would essentially end up with something like this (except the wall is straight so the toilet would be next to the shower instead of bumped back with wall on the side)

Note how the sink overhangs the vanity. The one I have is completely open at the back (except for the part with the drawer). So I could bump it forward enough to have the water supply lines inside the house in front of the wall and then put up some sort of trim on the sides to cover the gap between the wall and the vanity. I'd have a little shelf behind at the same level as the ridge at the back of the sink to have a little shelf (because having stuff fall behind would not be cool). I'm also thinking of building up a little box on the wall to hold the medicine cabinet (which is designed to fit between the studs) so I can have more room for insulation in the wall).
The good news is, it does not get below freezing here very often. The coldest it gets is in the 20s.

I'm trying to work out the plumbing layout now. I made a sloppy mockup that my brother joked looked like a weather chart with all of the colors. I know it needs changes-- I'll probably need combo tee wyes or have to add bends. I will just have to dry fit things to figure out angles and such.

I still want to have the vents inside the exterior wall.


That layout was based somewhat on this pic:


I have another one where the lines run separately to the main soil pipe instead of merging.

I saw this diagram for a toilet hookup and am wondering if it is ok


Should this last one have a 3" tee before the bend and then have fittings to make it go up at an angle to reach inside the wall and then go straight up?

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Old 11-16-2014, 07:49 AM  
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https://33.media.tumblr.com/103f9776...wd9ao1_400.jpg


this image is not legal, use a
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:53 AM  
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I wouldn't use that vanity, it is cute but small, works good in narrow spots but you do have room for a square box and a nice sink.
Most lumber yards and plumbing supply stores have someone that can help draw up a scetch of the layout of the pipes.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:00 PM  
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Frodo, thank you. I didn't think that one was legal, so I wanted to ask about it.

Is it not legal because of the wye? I read somewhere that a wye like that can restrict the airflow when used like that. I was thinking a sanitee would be better. I'm trying to picture how that would work... Would I have the closet bend like in the first picture but have it go back toward the wall into the 3" end of the inlet and then have the lavatory waste pipe come in from the right side? (I'll try to do a mockup later).

Another picture I saw was this one:


But instead of traveling to the left, I would have it travel to the right and merge with the lavatory drain and then have the merged soil pipe travel to the main soil pipe.

Does it matter which fixture is upstream/downstream if they each have their own vents? I know that some fixtures can siphon water from the traps of others bc of the flow, but is it better to have the sink line come in above the toilet line or below? Or can they pretty much be on the same plane? (preferably without living snakes, because we all know how Samuel L. Jackson feels about that).
I've been trying to find more diagrams for toilet hookups, but most of them seem to be for multi-story homes, or have layouts that don't match up.
This was one I found



Neal, I appreciate the advice, but we're pretty much stuck with that vanity. I plan to make use of the walls and add other storage. We want the walking path to be clear.

I wish I could trust the people at the local hardware stores to come up with sketches, but the owner at one gives bad advice and tells people to do things that violate code. The other hardware store is being run by the son of the former owner. His father was a licensed contractor, but he sadly passed away a couple of years back. I've talked to him, and I know more about plumbing than he does. He's a nice guy, but he is still trying to learn the trade so he can be better at running the business. I don't trust the big box stores at all because the competency/knowledge levels of the employees is inconsistent.

I got bored while it was raining (internet was out) and did a couple more sketches.
This one is completely not to scale and I suck with angles, proportion, and perspective... But its a general idea of how I imagine it to look. Just hope there's room for all of it (probably won't be, but I'll do some measuring when I can actually get down the hallway-- my brother just opened his door and shoved laundry and trash into the hallway so I can't get through).

(I know the towel ring sucks, but I forgot it at first and just slapped together a craptastic one)

Here is the overall layout (I know I didn't have the vanity bumped forward for either drawing bc I was too lazy to draw it in)


(I fudged on the size of the toiletpaper and towel bar/ring because I didn't feel like measuring to do the size to scale)
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:53 PM  
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I went and had a look at your measurements, it looks like you have something like 5x9 then I went and looked at mine.
The rough in was set in concrete so I just went with it for the tub and toilet just like you have. 15" from center of toilet to tub so I set the vanity at the same spacing.
For the vanity I had a 32" box left over from the kitchen so it is finished out at the counter at 24" from the wall. I put a spacer on the side to make it to the side wall but set it back some and the counter angles over to the side wall to allow for door opening. I have all that in 8'6" and there is no feeling of small bathroom, there is plenty of room.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:55 PM  
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The toilet flange may have to move a little depending on floor joists, angle flanges are availibe to get things closer.


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