DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > HVAC > TRANE XE90 getting no power, no red light


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Old 02-10-2016, 10:48 PM  
nealtw
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Between the 2 screws with white wires, there is a little tab that connects the 2 screws.
Between the 2 screws with the black wires, that tab is missing, That would explain why you have no power to one side of the outlet.
So now the question is was that cut out for a reason or was that something that just happened.
Can you tell if it has been cut or melted or?
I would not fix it until you have more info!


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Old 02-11-2016, 12:25 AM  
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Yes I get the photos now figuring out the wiring is above my pay grade.


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Old 02-11-2016, 01:56 AM  
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Do you have a label that shows wiring diagram, the manual say it should be on the unit.
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:42 PM  
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I see line power coming in to power half an outlet (bridge on hot side is removed), a transformer on the bottom of the J-box to run a condensate pump or humidifier solenoid and finally an outlet for an EAC (electronic air cleaner).
So with all this plugged in and switch turned on, you say you are not getting power to the door panel safety switch?
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:52 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kok328 View Post
I see line power coming in to power half an outlet (bridge on hot side is removed), a transformer on the bottom of the J-box to run a condensate pump or humidifier solenoid and finally an outlet for an EAC (electronic air cleaner).
So with all this plugged in and switch turned on, you say you are not getting power to the door panel safety switch?
Not sure he tested for power.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:07 PM  
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Originally Posted by reap70 View Post
@Neal, I checked the ones I could get to and tightened everything up, but nothing was really loose. Below is what I did with pictures.










Here is what I have.

1. Coming into the outlet from the on/off switch are 3 wires, white, black, and green.
a. The white wire runs to the upper left side screw,
b. The black wire runs to the upper right screw,
c. The green wire runs into a screw cap, which runs into the hole in the back of the outlet into the furnace (junction box?). Inside the box, it is grounded with a small screw.
2. There are 2 wires, a white one running from the lower left side screw to the box at the bottom of the outlet, and a black one which runs from the hole in the back of the outlet from the junction box into box at the bottom of the outlet.
3. Finally, there are 5 wires running into the hole in the back of the outlet (that runs into the box inside the furnace). They are...
a. the green wire explained above in 1c.
b. a white wire which runs from the lower left side screw to the control box plug in "LINE-N" aka "E7"
c. black #1 runs from the upper right side screw to the door switch
d. black #2 runs from the lower right side screw to the control box plug in "EAC-H" aka "E18"
e. black #3 runs from box under the outlet to the control box plug in "HUM-H" aka "E28"


So now what? LOL
What they have done here is brought in LINE power to the top of the convenience outlet.
This power is shared and also feeds the furnace. The other two black wires are "outputs" from the control board to control the humidifier "HUM-H"/"E28" and electronic air cleaner "EAC-H"/"E7". The air cleaner plugs into the bottom of the outlet and the transformer under the J-box runs the water solenoid for the humidifier. Pic #8 is yet another transformer for low voltage control power (i.e.- the thermostat, etc).
With the switch turned on, you should have power to the top of the outlet and the door switch and then onto the control board.
If no power, then back up and see if you have power coming to the switch.
Test these areas for power and lets see where it leads us next.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:11 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kok328 View Post
What they have done here is brought in LINE power to the top of the convenience outlet.
This power is shared and also feeds the furnace. The other two black wires are "outputs" from the control board to control the humidifier "HUM-H"/"E28" and electronic air cleaner "EAC-H"/"E7". The air cleaner plugs into the bottom of the outlet and the transformer under the J-box runs the water solenoid for the humidifier. Pic #8 is yet another transformer for low voltage control power (i.e.- the thermostat, etc).
With the switch turned on, you should have power to the top of the outlet and the door switch and then onto the control board.
If no power, then back up and see if you have power coming to the switch.
Test these areas for power and lets see where it leads us next.
When the switch is turned on he has power to the top of that outlet.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:22 PM  
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Ok, then he should have power into the door switch and out of the switch to the control board.
Trane has a yellow 5 amp blade style fuse on the control board. If this is blown the entire unit will shut down.
check for power up to the control board and also see if the fuse is good.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:53 PM  
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I went to test for power and the tester slipped out of my hands and the black tester wire broke (yes I bought a cheap one, it was the only one our local hardware store had). I have to get a new tester and will let you all know. The hardware store has a tester with a light on it, so I will at least know if power is going there. I can't drive, so it's a pain in the *** getting to the next town over with better hardware stores. Thanks for all of the great help!

Last edited by reap70; 02-12-2016 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:29 PM  
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A couple of thoughts: the hot side of the outlet isn't bridged (small metal tab) because the lower outlet should only be hot when the furnace is running; (probably a plug-in EAC? or extra humidifier or something) The black wire on the top outlet brings power to the furnace and the furnace sends power back to the lower outlet when appropriate.
@reap70; while you have the box open, ground your outlet.


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