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Old 12-19-2016, 05:22 PM  
akersr
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Default Replacing 1975 Toilet

This is what was under our 1975 toilet. left bolt is 10.50", right is is 10.75". Old toilet was big and set flush against the back wall. Wondering if I can get a 12" rough in to fit. Or should I just chisel this stuff out and start over with a 12" adapter flange? Not too experienced at this.



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Old 12-19-2016, 06:51 PM  
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I can not see your photo.
If you have a wood floor you may be up against the position of the floor joist.


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Old 12-19-2016, 08:51 PM  
akersr
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It's concrete! Wondering of I should chisel this out, add flooring over the concrete to level it up with the existing laminate, install a new flange and order a 10" toilet, Would that be the easiest way to do this?
Thanks,
Scott
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:00 PM  
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The rough of a toilet is measured from the back wall to the center of the pipe not from the side wall.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:31 PM  
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The bolts are cut off after the toilet is installed and are meant to be replaced each time you lift the toilet. They are in slip slot in the flange.
It is a common mistake for the plumber not to allow for the wall behind the toilet.
I would dig it out if for nothing else to level the floor.
Chip more from around the flange and see what you have.
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:27 PM  
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The trick is actually being able to find a WC that will match or slightly overlap the pattern of the existing WC.

If you can, simply clean the toilet flange, replace the bolts, add a new wax ring and set the new WC.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:25 AM  
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Thanks Johnj20. The 10.5 " and 10.75" measurements are from the bolts to the back wall. My description along with the pic was confusing. The pic with the tape measure sideways probably made it even more so. I took that one to remind myself how narrow the space was when I went WC shopping.

I'll start chipping away until I get to the flange and see what I find.

Thanks for the drawings nealtw! Looks there's only 14" from sidewall to center in this space.

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Old 12-20-2016, 07:56 AM  
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What you may not find, "off the shelf", at the big boxes, is a 10" WC, but you can "special order" them, just be aware of the price, because you may be able to beat that at a plumbing supplier, off the shelf.

And while you are at it, consider changing the angle stop to a 1/4 turn ball valve.

The 30" is today's standard, which can be addressed in the pullman/vanity.

If you are contemplating a built-up floor product there are flange extensions to address that as well.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:51 PM  
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Here's what it looks like after chipping away this morning. I can't find where its attached to the slab or drainpipe. Its in solid and its tilted at an angle.
The left side is just about flush with the floor and the right side is about half an inch below the existing floor. Do i knock it out somehow or use it as a base for a new flange like the one pictures which would be shimmed to level. If I knock it out I have to build the base up about an inch to reach floor level.
IMG_3235.jpg   IMG_3234.jpg   IMG_3231.jpg   IMG_3232.jpg   IMG_3224.jpg  


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Old 12-20-2016, 06:54 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akersr View Post
Here's what it looks like after chipping away this morning. I can't find where its attached to the slab or drainpipe. Its in solid and its tilted at an angle.
The left side is just about flush with the floor and the right side is about half an inch below the existing floor. Do i knock it out somehow or use it as a base for a new flange like the one pictures which would be shimmed to level. If I knock it out I have to build the base up about an inch to reach floor level.
I think that one fits inside a 4" pipe.
Is your pipe cast iron or plastic?



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