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Old 10-24-2011, 06:05 PM  
condo
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Thought that might be the case but I still want to address the things I can do something about and I won't know how much of a problem that will actually be till I do the GG and drywall.

I'm going to evaluate room by room as I go though. Starting with the masterbath which is affected the most, on the upstairs floor anyway.

I'm more worried about one drywall layer not being enough on the walls but before I do two layers upstairs it probably makes sense to do the first layer on the bottom floor first ???


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Old 10-24-2011, 06:54 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condo
Thought that might be the case but I still want to address the things I can do something about and I won't know how much of a problem that will actually be till I do the GG and drywall.

I'm going to evaluate room by room as I go though. Starting with the masterbath which is affected the most, on the upstairs floor anyway.

I'm more worried about one drywall layer not being enough on the walls but before I do two layers upstairs it probably makes sense to do the first layer on the bottom floor first ???
We're are you doubling up on drywall?... Not on ceiling I hope.

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Old 10-24-2011, 07:14 PM  
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Not planning on doing anything to the ceilings at this point, just the walls ...
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:21 AM  
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Here's a general rule about insulation in an acoustical wall or ceiling application: Nothing works better than cheap fiberglass. You could spend big money on exotic insulation, but performance will not improve.

You could build a formidible wall between you and your neighbor, but the ceiling, floor, and two side walls could allow sound to pass AROUND your new wall. This is flanking: FlankingSoundproofing Company

The primary path betwen you and your neighbor is through that common wall, so treating it alone will bring some relief, but there will likely be a flanking issue that will ultimately define the results.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:13 AM  
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Great thanks ...


One other area I am not sure what if anything I do about is in the second bathroom the tub/shower combo is located on the common wall.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:25 AM  
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That shower usually replaces drywall in that general area. So any little tapping (water) on the fiberglass shower will transmit effectively into the wall cavity. There it can travel up, down, sideways and of course straight into the neighbor's area. Any remediation at this point would be a major remodel.

Having said that, I would assume a fire rated wall is in place, meaning both your side and their side likely has a single layer of 5/8" drywall. Still, remediation at this point would be a major remodel.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:04 AM  
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Would blown in insulation or spray foam help for that location?

Also I have warped stud in the wall (creating a hump) that I am wondering if that would create a contact point with the drywall. Should I precoat that area with Green Glue and allow it to set up a bit?

Is it ok to apply the Green Glue to the wall instead of the drywall?
The reason I ask is it might be easier working in the limited space Masterbath to do that.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:13 PM  
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Blown in is tempting, but there's a great risk of compaction. If the insulation becomes overly compressed / compacted, it will conduct a vibration. This is the problem with foam. It's too dense and conducts a vibration readily. Doesn't matter if it is open or closed cell.

Pre-coating a stud with Green Glue will not help at all. Too much vibration at that contact point means conduction will continue.

You can apply the GG to the existing wall, or the back of the new drywall. Either way will work
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:40 PM  
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Pre-coating a stud with Green Glue will not help at all. Too much vibration at that contact point means conduction will continue.
Was thinking of pre-coating (running a bead) on the hump in the drywall between the second layer of drywall to help maintain the required gap. I would think if the GG set up a bit ( just a bead or so) that it might prevent contact at that point.

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You can apply the GG to the existing wall, or the back of the new drywall. Either way will work
Will the GG sag much in vertical application?
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:49 PM  
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Regarding point #1, GG on the framing is not helping. You need to avoid contact. Consider a block plane and shaving that piece.

GG will not sag because it is only used sandwiched between two sheets of building material that are thoroughly screwed together. There is nothing to sag


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