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Old 03-03-2012, 08:25 PM  
BridgeMan
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A rim scab in your case is a sistered 2 x 10, about 3' long (minimum), centered and installed on the outside of the existing 2 x 10 beam ends. Using the 6 (2 different length) through-bolts that I suggested earlier. I started using rim scabs after observing way too many splintered beam ends and/or posts, caused by inadequate hole clearances to member ends/edges. Many deck builders overhang their decking planks anyway, making the ends flush with a partial-depth trim joist on the outside to provide some visual relief. The notched 2 x 6s you added to your posts are better than nothing, but I think just using 6 x 6s would be preferable.

Are your 2 x 10s pressure treated? They look rather light in color to be treated. Also, have you applied preservative treatment to all of the post ends you've cut or notched? It's required by the IRC, although most AHJ inspectors won't catch it. The notched posts in your pix look "naked" (untreated). I prefer copper napthanate, the dark green stuff you thin with Stoddard solvent, and it eventually turns a nice uniform brown.


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Old 03-03-2012, 11:18 PM  
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BridgeMan,

I think i understand your "Rim Scab", i see how it adds strength. Does this look like what you're saying? Pardon my pencil sketch; it's not to scale.

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Yes, the 2x10 beams are PT. it's been suggest in this thread that I use Anchorseal for all cut ends. I plan to treat the posts over all surfaces with Anchorseal. I believe that will do the same as what you suggest. Do you agree?

Roger


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Old 03-04-2012, 08:36 PM  
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Yup, your sketch depicts what I described. Assuming you're using 4 each of the shorter through-bolts, instead of just the 2 shown in the sketch. I'd offset them from each other, and from a vertical plane. I don't know anything about Anchorseal, but if you've researched it adequately and are happy with it, I am too. In 50 years, it won't make any difference, right?

The "catchy" fact about copper napthanate is that it is the strongest form of wood preservative that can be applied by any layman, without requiring a license to do so. And it's also mentioned by name in the IRC deck reference.

As an aside, how are you going to orient your deck planking? The boring way (perpendicular to the joists), or the flashy way (angled at 45 degrees to the joists)?

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Old 03-04-2012, 09:21 PM  
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I will use 4 smaller bolt; i was planning to vertically aligned, but your idea of offsetting them vertically sounds good.

I'll do some research on Archonseal vs copper napthanate.

As far as decking orientation.. have not decided... wil probably lay it out several ways and my wife and i will decide.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:00 PM  
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FYI - Using anchorseal....
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:20 AM  
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I would have used on of these to set my base on, http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/ABW.asp
With the post being indirect contact with the concrete in the Sonotube it can wick up moisture and rot out the post.
I would have avoided butting two rim joist, at a post. Instead there should have been one soild one and the other one could have been butted. With two joining there you will have made a pivit point where the rim can sag or bounce on each side of the post.
All an inspector is going to be looking for is the bare min. that code calls for.
By using 6 X 6's you would have had far more bearing suface to suppot the rim joist and not split out when bolted.
For any joist run over 6' I would have gone with 2 X 8's for joist and 2 X 10's for rim joist.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:15 AM  
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How meny ways can we say OVERKILL, this deck is at least 8" off the ground. Are we sure we don't need cross bracing on the posts or some other non sence.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:47 AM  
RockyMtnBlue
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Suggestions for "sealing" double 2x10 beam?


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Should I seal the joint along the top between the 2x10? If so, with Construction Adhesive?

Thanks in advance,
Roger
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:11 AM  
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Ps... All cuts are sealed with Anchorseal 2
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:22 AM  
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Just attach some 30 lb. roofing paper to the tops of the joist.


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