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Old 04-10-2012, 12:31 PM  
mahohmei
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Default Metal stud strength?

We are interested in remodeling our kitchen, which would involve not only new cabinetry, but the addition of a wall where the counter is currently open towards the living room. The ceiling is 8', and the wall would be roughly 8' long. I am considering using 25 ga. metal studs, (obviously 16" o/c) with 1/2" drywall.

The lower track would screw into the subfloor, which is two sandwiched layers of 1/2" plywood. The 16" o/c subfloor joists run parallel to the proposed wall, which means there's no guarantee I'll be able to screw into a floor joist.

The upper track would screw into the drywall ceiling. Once again, the attic joists (24" o/c) run parallel to the proposed wall, so once again, no guarantee I'll be able to screw into an attic joist.

Here are my questions concerning this arrangement:

- What's the best way to build a wall parallel to the attic and subfloor joists? The ceiling is textured, so I'd rather not have to cut that open.

- Snaptoggle bolts (http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php) are quite strong. Would it be a no-no to attach the upper track to the ceiling drywall with a lot of 1/2" Snaptoggles?

- Will general-purpose deck screws be sufficient to attach the lower track to the plywood subfloor if there are no joists underneath?

- Finally, the kitchen cabinetry. The existing cabinetry is supported only from the attic joists, so I would most likely screw the new cabinetry into the attic joists as well. Once again, would it be a no-no to attach kitchen cabinets (or an range hood/microwave) to the metal-studded wall with 1/2" Snaptoggles instead of the wood screws specified in the instructions?

According to the spec sheet (http://www.toggler.com/pdf/toggle.pdf), on 1/2" drywall with a 25 ga. stud, a 1/2" Snaptoggle pulls out at 468 lbs., which means I would want to calculate 117 lbs. each using the safety factor of 4.

Thanks!



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Old 04-14-2012, 04:28 PM  
Snoonyb
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There are usually span blocks in floor/ceiling joists, so cut a hole 1"wide and 2" long in the direction the wall will run, insert a fish tape to see if there are any.There will probably be a flat block in the ceiling at the wall where you are going to continue from.You can also cut the ceiling the width of the wall in three places and fashion a section of track, the width of the joist bay in length, and install them in the joist bay, which will give you backing in the ceiling.
Attaching to the floor with standard coarse thred screws will be fine.
To attach the cabinets, install three rows of 2x4 blocking in the steel studs.

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