So the job is almost done; I'd say it came out OK. The underlayment could have been done more carefully, and they should have replaced more planks and with the kind of wood specified. The porch eave shingles--not pictured-- will have to be trimmed as they are over 2 inches over the drip edge.
One question I have is re: slotting the drip edge to allow it to accommodate the zip hangars which may allow in turn the drip edge to lean back closer to the rear wall of the gutter. In this case the gutters were re-installed after the drip edge was, so when they pushed up the rear gutter wall up behind the drip edge, they could only go up as far as the hangar screw. The angles the attached photos were taken at makes it difficult to see how far out the drip edge is bent forward. My main problem with this is not so much drip edge function or slight blocking of the gutter, but the space behind being a nice nesting place for bees etc, so I'm thinking of asking the workers to slot the drip edge at the hangar screws to allow the edge to be pushed back a bit, though I can't say how much closer the edge can be pushed back given the bottom kickout (bend). Maybe better to caulk the space.
In most places the eave shingles appear to be an acceptable length over the edge, except I can see in the distance at the rake it looks like it's covering too much of the gutter. Manufacturer says half an inch for eave with a drip edge, and 3/4" at rake with no drip edge.