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Old 02-12-2013, 10:41 PM  
frankflynn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Sorry I missread the first post. Change to a single lever from the front and use a plate that covers the old holes If you have 2" of access you can use pex and connect to the new copper you have available.
Good idea - I'm thinking though that I will have to rip the shower wall out because it is in a dormer and it is an outside wall.

But I will measure carefully and if there is a way to do what you suggest I'm all for it.


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Old 02-12-2013, 10:47 PM  
nealtw
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Plumbers do it all the time, I've done it myself but I didn't have to change the feed pipes. Good luck.


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Old 02-13-2013, 09:04 AM  
Fireguy5674
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It appears from your original picture that your tub surround is fiberglass? Since you are trying to do minimum damage and save a major rebuild for later I would try something like nealtw suggests. You should be able to find a kit with a face plate that will cover your existing faucet holes and a single lever faucet. Get the kit first and determine the maximum hole size you can open to work through. With that and a combination of shark bite, pex and whatever else it takes you might be able to replace the pipe and shower valve. Yes it will be a less than pleasant task but it is usually possible.

The other option I can think of is to cut a square hole large enough to work through and when you have corrected your plumbing problem repair the shower wall with fibergalss tape and resin. Then sand and paint the shower wall as a temporary fix till you are ready to redo the entire bath. I am sure there is some kind of paint that would hold up for a short time and make things look acceptable for the short term. Maybe an epoxy type paint?

Last edited by Fireguy5674; 02-13-2013 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:19 PM  
nealtw
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I would be surprized if this couldn't be done with out further damage to the unit. Will have to enlarge the hole for the shower head to change the fitting up there, just keep the hole smaller than the cover plate.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:38 AM  
wilard
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Nealtw is giving good advise

I would tie into existing copper with shark bites
And use swivel connectors at shower valve
Be aware that if you have a tub shower unit you can't
Use pex between the valve and tub diverter
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:25 PM  
nealtw
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wilard, welcome to the site. Is that a code thing, I wasn't aware.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:59 PM  
wilard
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If your referring to pex between valve and diverter

The pex is narrower and creates a restriction sending the water up to the shower head
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:15 PM  
nealtw
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So you need full pressure at the head where you install a water saver.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:47 AM  
Fireguy5674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilard View Post
If your referring to pex between valve and diverter

The pex is narrower and creates a restriction sending the water up to the shower head
Neal I believe he is saying that the pex going to the tub spout is to small and causes some water flow at the shower head when the diverter is open.

I have had problems with that happening. Not because of pex, but maybe because of restrictions at spout due to hard water build up. Never considered the spout issue. I figured it was at my valve.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:47 PM  
nealtw
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There is no bathtub spout.


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