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Old 02-16-2013, 01:41 PM  
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Default How to beam question


We are in the process of remodeling our kitchen. We are taking a short section of wall out, maybe 8 feet. U want to put a supporting beam in its place. It needs to be rugged but it will also be exposed. I am not sure what how to do this and make it look good. Should I use 2 x 8 and then cover it with pine and paint?

I really need some suggestions if you have any.

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Old 02-17-2013, 08:20 AM  
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Is this a bearing wall? What age is your house? If this is a bearing wall then you will need to build a beam which will be at least a double 2x with spacers to make it the same width as the original framing material. As far as 2x8's maybe but maybe bigger depending on the load and conditions.

As far as finishing the beam you can wrap it in pine or drywall or anything else you like and paint or stain etc.

Let us know what you need.

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Old 02-17-2013, 12:40 PM  
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If the wall is load-bearing, and your new beam isn't stout enough to carry the applied loads, the beam will eventually sag and its surfacing will begin to crack. Just something to think about.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:14 PM  
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Old remodeler here: I have found LVL plywood laminate beams to be more than equal to the task of supporting without sagging. Relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. 2 of them sandwiched equals thickness of 2x4 framing. Some suppliers call them engineered wood. I call them the greatest thing since electricity.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:09 PM  
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If you like the look of exposed wood you might look at just using solid doug fir, you just need to size it right for the load.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:18 AM  
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Repaired 2x2 leak w/water damage leak.Can oil base oils be asealer under drywall mud texture or stucco finish?
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:43 AM  
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You will need a shellac based sealer to keep water stain from bleeding thru. Benzer 123 Bullseye works really good for this and is available in latex but if you get a mask and use the oil it works best.
Don't get mask before paying for sealer.

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