DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Flooring > Crappy Subfloor Installed in Cabin - Suggestions?




Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-27-2013, 02:19 PM  
papakevin
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Jeffersonville, IN / Louisville, KY
Posts: 93
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

Default Crappy Subfloor Installed in Cabin - Suggestions?

Well, I had a local handyman build an addition onto a small cabin I own. (I didn't do it myself because it's an hour away near the lake and I simply didn't have time.) Well, it appears the guy used the cheapest subfloor he could. It doesn't interlock and there appears to be some dipping in the floor in between the joists, which causes to curl very slightly where the edges meet. Guess that's what I get for not specifying materials and going with a cheap price.

I told the guy I would finish out the interior and only notice the condition of the floor when I started to do so. The 10 by 20 addition is being divided into two rooms - a bathroom and a bedroom. Here are my questions:

- In the bathroom area I already have the shower installed. Should I install something like a hardie board on top of the existing subfloor? If I do go with a Hardie board, is 1/4" board enough or should I go with a 1/2" board? I am planning on install vinyl stick on tiles which can be grouted. I don't want to go with a ceramic tile floor due to the cold nature of the tile and the fact this is an elevated cabin on 6 by 6 treated posts. The bathroom is smallish - only 7 by 6 floor space with the shower installed - and I have yet to install the toilet and sink, so I'm open to anything.
- In the bedroom, I was planning on installing industrial carpet with a pad. I think this will work good enough so the floor is not noticeable, but didn't know if I should consider reinforcing the existing floor first. If I do need to reinforce, would installing luan (or lauan) boards over the entire bedroom to help it out, or should the carpet pad help hide any subfloor issues?

I appreciate any comments or suggestions. Thanks.



__________________
papakevin is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-27-2013, 02:45 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 10,990
Liked 966 Times on 859 Posts
Likes Given: 1652

Default

You didn't say how thick the subfloor is. If it is 5/8 you can fix the seams by hilding a 2x4 block under the seam while a second person drives screws from above, with a little glue on the block first it is better than tongue and groove.
If the plywwod is thinner than 5/8 then you may want to add another layer.
If floor joists are at more than 16" on center the numbers change.
If you are adding to the subfloor because it isn't thick enough to call it a subfloor then you do glue and screw it to make one thicker subfloor.



__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-05-2013, 08:41 PM  
isola96
Senior Member
 
isola96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lagrangeville, New York
Posts: 437
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts

Default

IMO sounds like its less then 5/8" or it's not 16" oc. You need 3/4" of ply at bare min for bathroom. You will have to add 1/2" or 5/8" over, then 1/4" cbu board in unmodified thinset bed, galvanized screws.

Cbu doesn't hold strength value at all for subfloor for tile.

If you add 2nd layer of ply run it perpendicular from joists, both layers should run same way.

Don't add 1/4" plywood it will pucker when you screw it down.

__________________
isola96 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-07-2013, 08:36 AM  
papakevin
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Jeffersonville, IN / Louisville, KY
Posts: 93
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

Default

Yeah, I'm finding out I'm sort of screwed here. The OSB installed on the subfloor is not going to cut it. Either they didn't crown the floor joists when they were installed or the floor is just that bad because where two boards meet up on a joist, there is a noticeable rise / ridge there. There are no markings on the OSB, except that the ends are spray painted green. My guess is that this stuff was meant for side walls or roofing and not flooring.

__________________
papakevin is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-07-2013, 11:51 AM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 10,990
Liked 966 Times on 859 Posts
Likes Given: 1652

Default

There are products that look like osb but they are for the flloor, they are tongue and groove at the joint on the sides and should be marked somewhere with this side down and the thickness.
Regular osb is marked on the shiny side and it will have a thickness marked there as well.
http://www.hubergreen.com/main.aspx?...antechflooring

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-07-2013, 02:52 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 10,990
Liked 966 Times on 859 Posts
Likes Given: 1652

Default

If this is just 7/16 osb, it will want to be removed as any moisture just makes this stuff thicker and is not good for any part of the floor.
I found this link to show how the blocking has to be done to support the sides and the ends of the sheets. Notice at the area under his door he has blocking every six inces to support the ends of the sheet. His fifth picture.http://thehouseisgoingtobegreat.blog...eginnings.html

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2013, 08:47 AM  
papakevin
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Jeffersonville, IN / Louisville, KY
Posts: 93
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

Default

Well, I needed to do something, so I belt sanded the seams which were raised to level them down, then painted them with some old exterior paint in an effort to keep them from absorbing more moisture. I was considering removing and replacing, but I already had the shower installed and an interior non weight bearing wall before looking at the floor closely.

I do have access to part of the structure from underneath and will go with the blocking to help provide additional structural support. Just hate it when you pay someone to do work for you and they buy and use cheap materials.

While not ideal, hope this will last a little while. This was an addition onto an existing cabin at a camping community, so while it didn't need to be perfect, I expected it to be better than the end result.

image-954838220.jpg  
__________________
papakevin is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2013, 09:21 AM  
BigDon
Hammerer of Thumbs
 
BigDon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: , OK
Posts: 7
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

You probably already know this, but you're gonna keep having problems with this floor. I've found through experience, it's always easier in the long run to just redo it right. It may take more time and money in the short run, but in the long run you'll be thankful.

I'm betting that this is probably 7/16 roofing or your joist are too far apart/not level or the sheets are not oriented the right way. Or, all the above!

__________________
BigDon is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-15-2013, 12:15 AM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 10,990
Liked 966 Times on 859 Posts
Likes Given: 1652

Default

Kevin: pull the shower and the wall and remove this stuff, really this is a big deal.

__________________
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-15-2013, 06:07 PM  
papakevin
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Jeffersonville, IN / Louisville, KY
Posts: 93
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

Default

Ok, I know you are right. Do I need to pull up the old floor or can I put new subfloor on top of the existing? Reason I ask is that the addition was stick built, so the external walls sit on top of the existing decking, so I can't pull up all the flooring, it would need to be cut out.



__________________
papakevin is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Small cabin help..? j23 Framing and Foundation 2 05-21-2013 09:24 AM
Help with old homestead Cabin gotfuel Roofing and Siding 2 01-31-2010 12:08 PM
Help with my old Homestead Cabin gotfuel Roofing and Siding 0 01-31-2010 04:42 AM
Crappy tools guyod Tools 16 04-29-2008 10:34 AM
Novice builder of Log Cabin SamtheITman Introductions 0 09-11-2006 06:01 AM

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS