DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Walls and Ceilings > Is this a weight bearing wall?




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Old 09-22-2013, 08:58 AM  
nealtw
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This is a good read about this.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...l-ceiling.aspx


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Old 09-22-2013, 08:31 PM  
coachgeo
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Thanx...... yeah that is the one and others similar I found the most informative. As that shows...... 1/3 the way up from typical joist location (x in the drawing) is what I mentioned earlier where one would put the new joist (collar tie).

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Good thing is that Sandwiching AKA doubling collar ties allowing for every third. I had forgotten about that.

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I wonder if it would allow for going every 4th or 5th rafter if you did an even stronger collar tie say double like shown as well as boxing in with another board on top and bottom. Followed by a triangulation to top of wall a little to each side; to spread this stronger collar's affects on the outer wall, This would be to my advantage cause it would look way less busy up there in that small space with less collar ties. I think my joinst are 18" on center........ a bit over kill. Also I want to loft a tiny sleeping loft in a portion of that cathedral space so those joist will be strengthened turning them into floor beams as well. Loft would basically center on the the *outer wall of original structure resulting in loft sitting with 1/2 of it above the addition and 1/2 above the original structure. It would be about 8" deep (red in picture)........ so yeah tiny. Could add header into walls of orginal structure to make them more "structural" and less divider walls to increase ability to hold up loft.

* in this case outer wall of original structure refered to here is now also an inner wall inside of addition


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I've already looked and it appears I have a ridge board but not a ridge BEAM nor POST inside the wall too the foundation. (pier and beam foundation)

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Moderator.......... feel free to dissect out the discussion in this thread on cathedral/vaulted ceiling and start a new thread with it.



Last edited by coachgeo; 09-23-2013 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:50 PM  
nealtw
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We did one that looked more like a vaulted truss when it was done. The joist ran from the wall on one side to about half way on the opposing rafter, looked good and worked well for insulation and venting. There was an engineer involved.
timber_scissor_truss_47.jpg  

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Old 09-22-2013, 09:38 PM  
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We did one that looked more like a vaulted truss when it was done. The joist ran from the wall on one side to about half way on the opposing rafter, looked good and worked well for insulation and venting. There was an engineer involved.
that looks interesting. Every rafter or every third orrr? Do you know if you had a ridge "beam" with end supports to foundation or just a ridge board?
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:55 PM  
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There was a ridge board but it was not supported, so all the weight was on the walls.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:00 PM  
coachgeo
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There was a ridge board but it was not supported, so all the weight was on the walls.
Vewy Intawesting; THANKS.

Was that arrangement on every rafter or did it skip any.

I'm assuming all original cross joist were removed.

Did you attach new ceiling onto those angled cross ties?? or did you leave it open/visable?

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Old 09-22-2013, 11:12 PM  
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scissor trust look interesting. Apparently used in home pictured below along with some Faux beefy timber ones added for "look". Though in my case this would not work as well cause I'll need full height of roof to make most use of lofted bed
scissor_truss1.jpg   vaulted_ceiling.jpg  

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Old 09-23-2013, 06:15 AM  
nealtw
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That created the new ceiling so it was every one to hold up the drywall.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:18 AM  
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That created the new ceiling so it was every one to hold up the drywall.
OK - Thanx
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:41 PM  
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Did you measure the ceiling height in the attic. You said you wanted to create a loft but i only see about 5' of ceiling height at the peak. After you build down the rafters to insulation need min of 9.5 inches it might be even more where you live. Then you will have to add floor joists that can span the width of the house. If your lucky a 2x12 may work . Its going to be alot of work for something an 8 year old will not be able to stand up in.
If it was me I would take the whole roof off and create a single roof plane making your deck a covered deck. This will give you the ceiling height for a real bedroom. You can use a mix of trusses that will frame out the bedroom for half of it and a cathedral for the other half.


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