DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Framing and Foundation > Framing Wall - Poor Workmanship or Acceptable Practise




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Old 02-11-2014, 10:19 AM  
CallMeVilla
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While we are dissecting the structure ... I did a blow up of the post and OMG !! Have you ever seen a wedge in a structural post? I mean really ? This IS a workmanship issue. Somebody gang cut the studs then made up for it elsewhere along the wall ... but NOT on the point load post.

Tell me I am wrong about this ...


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Old 02-11-2014, 10:25 AM  
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Is it ugly? yes
Will it pass? yes


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Old 02-11-2014, 10:35 AM  
bud16415
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When I look up in his second photo I see the rim capping off those sideways joists that’s why I asked to me it looks like that falls right on the double top plate. But I see that’s blocking now. They were in a hurry I now see they put the house wrap on before adding in the extra stud or the strip of sheathing.

Neil are you guys mostly doing 2x6 walls on 16” centers or 2x8? I can see with trusses and different center distances the pattern will run and the dormers and all that. The lower you go on a building the more weight the structure is seeing. Still seems on a two story place I would like to see them lined up. But if you can’t you can’t. My old houses line up but that’s because they are balloon framed, ha.

In his first photo I thought the big I beam was to carry the load as a cantilever out over the door to the smaller I beam, but the second photo shows they stop on the big beam and then short ones must go the span to the front.

Villa that’s the point loading I was talking about before in my question.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:02 AM  
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Bud the wedge or block does pick up most of the four studs that carry the beam, the king stud dosn't do much.
We would have to have a sheeting inpection before the house wrap went on, but that is different in places.
The front of the garage here is likely a vinyl covered deck which should be dropped 6" below the floor level which makes it hard to put a lvl or microlam beam in so they went with steel as with a wider flange they can keep the height to min. to make room for the garage door.
2x6 on outside wall 16" on center is standard for houses, 2x4 interior except for wet walls and some bearing walls. The higher you go that might change like a four story apartment building might have 2x8 12" on center on the ground floor. Good luck keeping studs lined up when that changes as you go up the building.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:02 PM  
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First off thanks for all the information helps when dealing with the builder

Another question how high above the door should a header be or better question how high is it allowed to be over the door? Picture is a little dark just took it tonight when I was out.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:22 PM  
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Looks like your builder was doing everything he could to get the house closed up for the weatrher. You will see header up down anywhere. We always put it at the top like this and then frame down to window or door. The framer should come back and fill this in with blocks and a sill, maybe that's just a temp door.
On custom built houses the builder is always pushing the owner to make changes, that's where some of them make the big bucks! Framers get sick of ripping thing out and changing them so some times they just leave out details like this until all the crap settles.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:26 PM  
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The framing is specified by the prints. The call out for the door should be obvious based on the rough-in measurements. I put the header where it needs to be directly above the door and fill-in the difference up to the top plate with cripples as necessary (see pic).

Your builder tossed a header into the framing high enough to clear the door ... but now he has to back-fill the gap. Can he do it? Sure. Is it how you're supposed to do it? Nope.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:38 PM  
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Villa; That looks good in all the books and some do it that way and on the states side you see it more than you do here. That's not what you see when you have a crew that can put up a house in days not weeks. The problem with that is just speed, you will have jack studs to fit an eighty inch door, different for outswing doors window may or may not be at the same height or at various heights. Up here most are into production framing and yes this should have been filled in at the time the wall was built.
Putting the header high or low makes no difference to the strength, the material used, only thing is time.
If we start the day on a freshly sheeted floor we don't build a wall untill the floor is lined out, all the plates are tacked together and layout. All headers are cut all jacks are cut and nailed to studs, all criples, blocks and sills are cut evan the second top plates are cut and ready to go. All the double or triple studs are nailed, we use "Ls" up here and they are nailed togther.
We put the same people on a givin job for the speed of just knowing what you are doing every time.
Depending on who gets finished first sometimes we have sheeting cut for the first two or three walls before someone starts nailing walls together.
We have to drill hole in every dead cavity so we predrill a bunch of sheets will they are still on the pile, If we are not done that floor by noon the next day we are having a bad day, that's with a three man crew on about fifteen hundred sq, feet.
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:14 PM  
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Asked a few question today, actually the engineers and cities want the header on the top so it can be nailed thru the top plate. Helps make the wall ridged. (earthquake zone)
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:02 AM  
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Here is another thing I have a problem with . I can't see this being acceptable. But would like to know what others think

This is the same house. The window was put in the wrong place and I told them they had to move it. after which time they added the plumbing but still hadn't moved the windows. Once I complained again and provided proof they moved the window, but now the plumbing was in the way so it was cut out and the window was moved and the picture shows what I ended up with

this is a 2x6 outside wall looking at the right side king stud
(they did scab a 2x4 to the right side which you can kind of see, I would guess to increase strength


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