Replacement For Plumbers Putty?

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Eddie_T

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I don't have good luck with plumbers putty on a SS sink with the extra cup to hold the drain to the sink basin. Has RTV or any modern materials trumped plumber's putty?
 
not in 200 years.All you need to apply the putty to is the rim.
 
Silicone is the other option but, nothing really beats putty.
Silicone takes some experience to get it to work without making a mess and having it squeeze out during installation.
 
this is how you apply puddy to the rim of a sink.

put a ball of puddy in your right hand [if right handed]

push down with the palm of your hand in a rapid motion twards the open hole

leaving a layer on the rim...repeat, all the way around the hole


to apply to a strainer. roll a piece of puddy on the counter the thickness of a large childs [first grade] pencil

wrap it around the strainer, press

tighten the nut and washer,,making sure the strainer is centered.

when finished, use the point of your pencil, go around the installed strainer and remove excess
 
this is how you apply puddy to the rim of a sink.

put a ball of puddy in your right hand [if right handed]

push down with the palm of your hand in a rapid motion twards the open hole

leaving a layer on the rim...repeat, all the way around the hole


to apply to a strainer. roll a piece of puddy on the counter the thickness of a large childs [first grade] pencil

wrap it around the strainer, press

tighten the nut and washer,,making sure the strainer is centered.

when finished, use the point of your pencil, go around the installed strainer and remove excess

That's the way I do it but it lasts about a year before the dish detergent eats through it. I suspect I am not getting the nut tight enough. It is hard to hold the drain at the right angle for the remote lever and the cup that pushes against the basin while tightening the nut. I have to use channel lock handles through the spokes in the drain to hold it while I tighten the nut. I tighten it until it squishes good, do the clean-up and I'm good for about a year. If I replace the drains I will lose the convenience of the remote drain closures. The sink is a top of the line Elkay triple basin from the 70s. The other two basins are not a problem as they don't have hot water with dawn detergent sitting in them for an hour or more.
 
I guess you would have to have been here. I used channel lock pliers as you did the crossed screw drivers and has a wrench as a bar in the jaws for added leverage. I tightened so hard the pot metal nut broke and I had to search the internet for a brass nut making do with two conduit nuts until they jumped a thread due to temperature changes in the basin. The problem may just be this particular type or brand of sink as the original installation failed as well and it was done by a real plumbers. I would try a silicone gasket if I could find one in that size.
 
I'd love to know what kind of sink it is.

And a general question on the subject: Has anyone tried Mortite fingertip caulk in place of plumbers putty? it seems to have the same consistency and properties.
 
Here is a link to the sink: http://www.elkay.com/sinks/top-mount/lcr4322
Mine has a single lever faucet with remote drain pulls in the front where the faucet knobs are on the one displayed.

The drain has the outer housing similar to this one: http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/elkay-brass-kitchen-sink-drain-lk27-stainless-steel/p22635
It appears that Elkay has upgraded the drain a bit and now uses a brass nut.

I found a comment on another site recommending silicone as it acts as an adhesive which plumbers putty cannot do. They didn't specify if the silicone should cure prior to tightening the locknut.
 
I have never heard of putty not working. If you use silicone you would tighten it before it cures, but you better get it right the first time, you might not get a second chance.
 
I have never heard of putty not working. If you use silicone you would tighten it before it cures, but you better get it right the first time, you might not get a second chance.
I was pondering whether to do an almost complete tightening then do the final turn after the cure.
 
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