Pantry won't fit with toe kick

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nike123249

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So we had Home Depot build a custom pantry for us. The cabinetry specialist explained that the pantry and the toe kick would come separate and that we just need to lay the toe kick down then lift the pantry on top of it to have it fit uniformly against the wall and ceiling. No problem we thought.

The pantry came and we realized there is 3/4 inch lip on the bottom of the cabinet, essentially making it impossible to put the pantry on the toe kick given the height of the ceiling.

Here are the details:
Ceiling height = 96"
Cabinet height = 91.25"
Toe kick height = 5 and 1/8th"

So that 3/4" lip is the issue. Obviously we could cut down the toe kick, but then the pantry wont reach the ceiling like the rest of the cabinets so we're looking for some suggestions on what to do to make it fit. Thanks!

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Welcome to the site. If the kick is the same width as the cupboard and the cuboard is supposed to have the sides held up, cut the bottom of the toe kick to fit.
 
I would bet the the lip is only on the front and 2 sides. You install the base from the rear of the cabinet.
 
I would bet the the lip is only on the front and 2 sides. You install the base from the rear of the cabinet.

No they have given the kick big so it is cut to fit. If the kick dosn't reach both sides fill the space at the bottom with 3/4 stock.
 
Does the kick have to fit inside the lip on the cabinet? It it does then cut the back lip off and slide on.
The cabinet should not be made to fit tight to the ceiling. There should be some gap to allow for floor deviations and installation. Then add a filler like crown molding to cover it.
 
The toe kick is made high to be trimmed and scribed to suit the floor. If you look at how it’s made all the staples are on the one side and just glue at the bottom side to be trimmed. If it was one piece you couldn’t tip it up into place. Check the floor for level and your wall. Cut the base to create a level platform and then slip the top in place.
 
The toe kick is made high to be trimmed and scribed to suit the floor. If you look at how it’s made all the staples are on the one side and just glue at the bottom side to be trimmed. If it was one piece you couldn’t tip it up into place. Check the floor for level and your wall. Cut the base to create a level platform and then slip the top in place.

That works if they fill the void under the cupboard.
 
Lost me.
Let's do the math, the cupboard is 92 1/4 the ceiling is 96 so the kick should be 3 3/4 but is when put in place the cupboard sits down on the kick it will add up to 95 1/4. so the way to fix that is to fill the void under the cupboard with 3/4 plywood or what have you.
The math will change as the OP wants to match other cupboards also.
 
Any chance the pantry is upside down?........just askin' :eek:

I wish that was the issue :)

The pantry currently has the lip on all 4 sides and on the top and bottom of the pantry. Cutting the lip off of the back of the pantry is looking like our best option so we can slide it on
 
I wish that was the issue :)

The pantry currently has the lip on all 4 sides and on the top and bottom of the pantry. Cutting the lip off of the back of the pantry is looking like our best option so we can slide it on

That lip is holding the floor in place and cutting it off will weaken it, just cut a apeice of something to fill the void, check you sheves and see if the shipped the filler peice with them.
 
Two questions....one obvious and one not so.
Did you call HD and ask them how it should be installed?
Can you remove the top spacer, lift the cab into place and then slide the spacer back in on top?
 
Filling in the bottom would put the weight of the unit and all the contents on the bottom floor. If yours is anything like mine it has a ton or more of cans in it. I would think the weight is supposed to be carried down thru the sides.

What is the reason the bottom toe kick can’t be shortened. If you can tip the pantry on its back and put the toe on its edge below it we can see what’s under there and you can measure it as a whole.
 
you can't stand up a full height cupboard??????????
I understand you can’t build it on the floor and then tip it up if it’s overall height is floor to ceiling. I wasn’t suggesting that what I was suggesting was they do that so they can see the bottom of the unit and how it is constructed. I would assume when its put into place some clearance has to be left at the top say 1/64 of an inch, so it can slide in.

Is there just a toe kick on the front or front and left side? I’m assuming the base is the same width as the pantry.

On a side note how does the end of the toe kick get finished?
 
I understand you can’t build it on the floor and then tip it up if it’s overall height is floor to ceiling. I wasn’t suggesting that what I was suggesting was they do that so they can see the bottom of the unit and how it is constructed. I would assume when its put into place some clearance has to be left at the top say 1/64 of an inch, so it can slide in.

Is there just a toe kick on the front or front and left side? I’m assuming the base is the same width as the pantry.

On a side note how does the end of the toe kick get finished?



You are right. We can't tip the pantry up because of the clearance with the ceiling.

The toe kick is essentially just a box to place under the pantry then we received finishing pieces to glue/nail onto it so it matches the pantry. The toe kick box is not quite the width of the full pantry when it fits underneath. I'll take another picture tonight to help show more detail.

We'll be screwing the pantry into a stud once it's in place to help support the weight and make sure it doesn't move. So I'm wondering if that will help the issue that was mentioned if we cut off the back part of the lip around the bottom of the pantry. Since no weight will be on that lip anyways once it's mounted on the toe kick.

More pics to come! Thanks everyone for your help!
 
Two questions....one obvious and one not so.
Did you call HD and ask them how it should be installed?
Can you remove the top spacer, lift the cab into place and then slide the spacer back in on top?

I called Home Depot to speak with the cabinet specialist we originally worked with and he was off until tomorrow. So I'll be following up with him then.

I'm not sure what you mean about the top spacer?
 

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