Installing nail on french door and window

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tractng

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Hello,

I will be ripping out 2 windows that are 4x4 and replacing one window the same size. The other window will be replaced by a 5 ft french door.

I have install a few pre-hung doors and also a sliding patio door in the past. Here are some questions I am asking.

1) What is the best method to break the stucco? In the past, we just used a saw to cut the stucco wall. I am trying to avoid this method as it produce a lot of dust. Probably hammer or pick?


Also, how much stucco do I have to break? I am thinking about 5-6 inches more than the opening for black paper/mesh wire and flashing.


2) My french door is 59.25" and 79.5", my rough opening will be extra 1/2" on each side?


3) Do I still use the 3 coat method (for stucco) once I am done?
- scratch, brown, finish

windows.jpg
 
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Hello,I will be ripping out 2 windows that are 4x4 and replacing one window the same size. The other window will be replaced by a 5 ft french door.

I have install a few pre-hung doors and also a sliding patio door in the past. Here are some questions I am asking.

1) What is the best method to break the stucco? In the past, we just used a saw to cut the stucco wall. I am trying to avoid this method as it produce a lot of dust. Probably hammer or pick?

Use a hammer for both window removal.

For the window you intend to replace, in size, just break enough around the window to facilitate the removal and replacement, being especially cautious not to break the flashing paper. Remove the fasteners securing the stucco netting and fold it back, out of the way. Try not to cut and remove the existing stucco netting, because it has already been tempered, which reduces the potential for cracking of the new stucco joints.

For the new door installation, since it will be wider than the removed window opening, try and take it to the next stud,leaving at least 6" narrower in width than the rough door framing.

Since you'll be installing a new header for the door opening, and probably be required to relocate some electrical beside installing some new light switches, you'll need to support the ceiling and remove some interior wall and ceiling material.


Also, how much stucco do I have to break? I am thinking about 5-6 inches more than the opening for black paper/mesh wire and flashing.


2) My french door is 59.25" and 79.5", my rough opening will be extra 1/2" on each side?


3) Do I still use the 3 coat method (for stucco) once I am done?- scratch, brown, finish

Yes, just be careful of the moisture content.
 
Thanks.

"Try not to cut and remove the existing stucco netting, because it has already been tempered, which reduces the potential for cracking of the new stucco joints"

I think you meant, "once it has been tempered", which has "greater" potential...

I had to re-read a few times :).

Btw, I am using a 4"x8" header. I based on the recent architecture plan that required the same beam size for a 5 ft window. Current window has 4"x6" header.
 
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Thanks.

"Try not to cut and remove the existing stucco netting, because it has already been tempered, which reduces the potential for cracking of the new stucco joints"

I think you meant, "once it has been tempered", which has "greater" potential...

The tempering is the process of the chemical reaction of the cement adhering to the stucco netting, which amounts to some shrinkage and shrinkage causes cracks.

Using the old tempered netting allows the new stucco to adhere to the existing concrete on the tempered netting so the drying process is uniform and resists shrinkage., ERGO, reducing the potential for cracking.

New stucco netting is bright galvanized, where tempered netting is a dull grey and when the tempered coating is removed, it amounts to a lime based dust, which is cement.

My stucco joints do not crack.



Btw, I am using a 4x8 header. I based on the recent architecture plan that required the same beam size for a 5 ft window.

Good deal. That means that the dwelling over the work area in single story.

Have you looked in the attic to see if the ceiling joist end over the wall the new door will be cut into?

If not, you may not need to support the ceiling.
 
The tempering is the process of the chemical reaction of the cement adhering to the stucco netting, which amounts to some shrinkage and shrinkage causes cracks.

Using the old tempered netting allows the new stucco to adhere to the existing concrete on the tempered netting so the drying process is uniform and resists shrinkage., ERGO, reducing the potential for cracking.

New stucco netting is bright galvanized, where tempered netting is a dull grey and when the tempered coating is removed, it amounts to a lime based dust, which is cement.

My stucco joints do not crack.





Good deal. That means that the dwelling over the work area in single story.

Have you looked in the attic to see if the ceiling joist end over the wall the new door will be cut into?

If not, you may not need to support the ceiling.


Yes to needing support. I have been up the attic many times. Thanks, I will post pics along the way.
 
Yes to needing support. I have been up the attic many times. Thanks, I will post pics along the way.

Good. Sounds like you are well on the way to being smarter than what you are working on.
 
Lets say for some reasons that I have to break more stucco than suggested, can I connect the new wire mesh to the old one by some way of twisting the edge (overlap) and using liquid nail. The backside (under stucco) doesn't have any shear wall.

I understand the side that I need to enlarge for the french door, I need to run to the next stud.

Also, first and second coats of stucco use portland cement with sand?

Thanks again.
 
Lets say for some reasons that I have to break more stucco than suggested, can I connect the new wire mesh to the old one by some way of twisting the edge (overlap) and using liquid nail. The backside (under stucco) doesn't have any shear wall.

Agreed, sometimes the breakage goes beyond your best intensions. Inherently paper flashings extend beyond common framing members, into open stud bays, so, in the case of the window change out, the common installation was to flash the opening, caulk the mating surface, install the window and then lath.
It's now evolved to add an additional layer of flashing, at the header, after the window has been installed, but it is also "an installers practice."

In my practice I would simply remove the fasteners, fold the netting and paper away, install a new layer of flashing, caulk and install the window.

Were the old stucco netting be to short to cover the space, I place the new and then overlap the tempered on top and go back far enough to fasten to a framing member. Twisting to interlace the netting is acceptable, but only beyond a fastener and I would never use liquid nails to meld flashing.

I understand the side that I need to enlarge for the french door, I need to run to the next stud.

Remember, there is no immediate necessity to arbitrarily remove your alternatives.

Also, first and second coats of stucco use portland cement with sand?

Because of the size of your patch, I would use a "speedy-patch" product purchased from a local stucco or building material supplier. Locally, MISSION STUCCO, or LA HABRA, or you could also employ the traditional 3 coat process, if you are more familiar and yes red label cement is the correct product to achieve the moisture resistance.
 
Something to keep in mind. If you are on a slab, you'll need to place additional anchors within 12" of the bottom plate ends for the door placement.
On a raised foundation, just some additional nailing is sufficient.
 
The header over the door will have to be changed and the new size will need two jack studs under each side
I would use a diamond blade in a skill saw and rig a hose to sprits the blade while cutting , no dust, just trim the new with wood.
 
Sounds like a lot of work.
 
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I am putting two layers of flashing (one under the lip/trim of the door & other over it) and going to caulk the area. I probably will not use a 3 step process. I have used the rapid set brand before but not sure if it will work well with the thickness.

Yes, I will put anchor bolts on each sides of the slab. Will use metal plate to tie beam to king stud.



 
I am putting two layers of flashing (one under the lip/trim of the door & other over it) and going to caulk the area. I probably will not use a 3 step process. I have used the rapid set brand before but not sure if it will work well with the thickness.

You should be able to. I've added color to it in the past when a heavy sand finish is to be matched, and scrubbed it out.
Are you using KEYMESH or K-LATH?

Yes, I will put anchor bolts on each sides of the slab. Will use metal plate to tie beam to king stud.[/QUOTE]

A35N flattened?



[/QUOTE]

I usually do not caulk around a wood door installation, because the material is not dissimilar from the framing so the expansion and contraction will occur at the same rate, unlike metal frames.

Where I caulk heavily, is under the sil, at the bottom plate ends and under the flashing where it laps onto the weep screed.

I do not see any switches or receptacles. Are you aware that you should be able to turn a light on within 6' of a room entry and that a recepticle is required every 12' around a room?

You are progressing nicely, just be careful of the small details.
 
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You should be able to. I've added color to it in the past when a heavy sand finish is to be matched, and scrubbed it out.
Are you using KEYMESH or K-LATH?

Yes, I will put anchor bolts on each sides of the slab. Will use metal plate to tie beam to king stud.

A35N flattened?



[/QUOTE]

I usually do not caulk around a wood door installation, because the material is not dissimilar from the framing so the expansion and contraction will occur at the same rate, unlike metal frames.

Where I caulk heavily, is under the sil, at the bottom plate ends and under the flashing where it laps onto the weep screed.

I do not see any switches or receptacles. Are you aware that you should be able to turn a light on within 6' of a room entry and that a recepticle is required every 12' around a room?

You are progressing nicely, just be careful of the small details.[/QUOTE]

Yes to the first question. Working on the lights/outlet upcoming week.

If I do use a 3 step stucco process, do I have to wait one week between 1st and 2nd coat? Would a 90 lbs of cement be enough for my door and windows?

Right now still evaluating if i should just use the one step method but isn't sure how well I can smooth/level it for about 3/4-1" inch thickness. For the one step process, you can't go back later to add another coat the second day?

I am not sure what is called, but it comes with black paper and brown on top with wires for stucco. The spacing is a a good inch (estimate). I didn't want to buy them separate since its a small job.

mesh.JPG

rapid.JPG
 
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A35N flattened?





Yes to the first question. Working on the lights/outlet upcoming week.

If I do use a 3 step stucco process, do I have to wait one week between 1st and 2nd coat? Would a 90 lbs of cement be enough for my door and windows?

The 3 step process is 3 separate products; sand, cement and lime, mixed and applied over a 17day time frame and are 1st=scratch coat, 2nd=brown coat and 3rd=color/finish coat.(The exception being that if you are using HY-EARLY cement you can apply the scratch and brown coat on the same day.)

You can apply the rapid set in a 3 coat process or 2, or 1 coat. It depends on what you are the most comfortable with. First, I would not use the product you have pictured, because of the expense and lack of familiarity. However, I would apply a speedy patch in 2 coats, with a sufficient time elapsed to insuring proper drying.

For the one step process, you can't go back later to add another coat the second day?

You can. It's part of the learning curve.

I am not sure what is called, but it comes with black paper and brown on top with wires for stucco. The spacing is a a good inch (estimate). I didn't want to buy them separate since its a small job.

It's called K-LATH and I avoid it like the plague.

I prefer KEYMESH, which is also available in sheets, as well as rolls, because it is interwoven and can be pulled tight, without separating.

Disregard the comment about the weep-screed, because you do not have any.
 
Metal strap will not hold the weight, your header needs to be 6" longer. You might get away with that in other places but not when you have rafters landing above. ypu could use a hanger but you still need a double stud on each side of the door. Evan non bearing wall get 2 studs beside doors on each side.
 
Metal strap will not hold the weight, your header needs to be 6" longer. You might get away with that in other places but not when you have rafters landing above. ypu could use a hanger but you still need a double stud on each side of the door. Evan non bearing wall get 2 studs beside doors on each side.

I have two studs on each side, king and jack studs.
 
I have two studs on each side, king and jack studs.

I did not see the Jack stud at all but you shoiuld have had 2 on each side. the king stud holds it all in place but 5 ft is the transition from 1 to 2 so you are close.
 

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