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dimme

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I am working a project in my home where we are remodeling our wall where our fireplace is. I removed all the brick fixed some dry rot. Now I am getting ready to sheetrock, but before I do, I wanted to run some power to that side of the wall so we can hang out TV over the fireplace ( which we do not use). Anyway in my stupidity I used my 1 in bit to bore through the two corner studs (load bearing) to run the wire. Because the studs are offset from each other the hole is very close to the edge of each stud. Essentially creating a one inch notch. Living in earthquake land I would like the corner of my house to be as strong as possible. My first thought was just to sister in a stud, but the bottom plate bolt is real close but I can squeeze one in, and to make matters worse there must of been a repair to that wall before I owned the house because there is a 2x4 nailed horizontally to the sheathing any sistered stud will need to be notched 1.5” to accommodate the 2x4. The 2x4 is about 18” off the ground and the notch is about 12” off the ground. If I scab in a 2x4 that is 18” high it probably would do any good? Any Ideas?

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I'm not from earthquake land, so if there are specific requirements, you should hear from a local. But if permitted, just use a metal mending plate.
 
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I am working a project in my home where we are remodeling our wall where our fireplace is. I removed all the brick fixed some dry rot. Now I am getting ready to sheetrock, but before I do, I wanted to run some power to that side of the wall so we can hang out TV over the fireplace ( which we do not use). Anyway in my stupidity I used my 1 in bit to bore through the two corner studs (load bearing) to run the wire. Because the studs are offset from each other the hole is very close to the edge of each stud. Essentially creating a one inch notch. Living in earthquake land I would like the corner of my house to be as strong as possible. My first thought was just to sister in a stud, but the bottom plate bolt is real close but I can squeeze one in, and to make matters worse there must of been a repair to that wall before I owned the house because there is a 2x4 nailed horizontally to the sheathing any sistered stud will need to be notched 1.5” to accommodate the 2x4. The 2x4 is about 18” off the ground and the notch is about 12” off the ground. If I scab in a 2x4 that is 18” high it probably would do any good? Any Ideas?

The style of corner is called a Mormon corner and the boring, although large, is typical.

As SNS said, just use enough nail plates to protect the conductor from damager.
 
I agree with others here, just a plate in front of that so a drywall screw won't get to the wire.
 
The style of corner is called a Mormon corner and the boring, although large, is typical.

As SNS said, just use enough nail plates to protect the conductor from damager.

I have seen a lot of different methods to build a corner have heard them called 2 stud , 3 stud , 4 stud corners. Have heard them called a built in place corner and conventional corner. But I have never heard of a Mormon corner.

Is that particular to around where you live. I wonder if you know why they call it a Mormon corner? The history of the name. I googled it and google always finds something but it came up with nothing when I searched.
:confused:
 
I have seen a lot of different methods to build a corner have heard them called 2 stud , 3 stud , 4 stud corners. Have heard them called a built in place corner and conventional corner. But I have never heard of a Mormon corner.

Is that particular to around where you live. I wonder if you know why they call it a Mormon corner? The history of the name. I googled it and google always finds something but it came up with nothing when I searched.
:confused:

It is a style, and is less prevalent than a convectional corner primarily because of the additional time required to cut the fire stop.
 
Its actually called a California Corner in building circles.
Mormon corner may be a Local term.

Your holes should be ok for most locations , However due to your seismic zone I would check with your local Building official.
 
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Its actually called a California Corner in building circles.
Mormon corner may be a Local term.

Where I live it is called a corner, and that would be the fist one and the one in the back you can't see. The second one in the photo is just drywall backing. If more bearing is needed you would see more than one in the wall to the right or more than one in the back. The drywall backing can be pieces.
 
Where I live it is called a corner, and that would be the fist one and the one in the back you can't see. The second one in the photo is just drywall backing. If more bearing is needed you would see more than one in the wall to the right or more than one in the back. The drywall backing can be pieces.

Technically it would be a 3 stud corner....and not the one Oldog hangs out on. :rofl:
 
I am working a project in my home where we are remodeling our wall where our fireplace is. I removed all the brick fixed some dry rot. Now I am getting ready to sheetrock, but before I do, I wanted to run some power to that side of the wall so we can hang out TV over the fireplace ( which we do not use). Anyway in my stupidity I used my 1 in bit to bore through the two corner studs (load bearing) to run the wire. Because the studs are offset from each other the hole is very close to the edge of each stud. Essentially creating a one inch notch. Living in earthquake land I would like the corner of my house to be as strong as possible. My first thought was just to sister in a stud, but the bottom plate bolt is real close but I can squeeze one in, and to make matters worse there must of been a repair to that wall before I owned the house because there is a 2x4 nailed horizontally to the sheathing any sistered stud will need to be notched 1.5” to accommodate the 2x4. The 2x4 is about 18” off the ground and the notch is about 12” off the ground. If I scab in a 2x4 that is 18” high it probably would do any good? Any Ideas?

If you are in an earthquake zone and you have a wall open, it is a good time to add tie downs.
This a sample of one.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hdq-hhdq.asp
When we put one of these in they call that a stress wall and have us go nuts on the nailing of the sheeting if you have a whole wall open then adding one of these and sheeting the inside with plywood or OSB will all help. Talk to the people at a real lumber yard.
 
Its actually called a California Corner in building circles.
Mormon corner may be a Local term.

The progression of the building trades was from east to west.

I learned the style in the 70's from a Mormon, who had a 4 digit contractors lic. number and as he explained it, corners were 1 stud short of a channel but the assembly process was the same, 1 stud flat, 1 stud on edge creating an "L", where the 3rd stud stood on edge creating a "U", is a channel, creating the backing for intersection partitions.

A california or conventional corner is 2 studs stood on edge with indiscriminate blocking separating them.

The evolution of the terminology follows the transference of tradesmen, following the available employment opportunities.
 
The progression of the building trades was from east to west.

I learned the style in the 70's from a Mormon, who had a 4 digit contractors lic. number and as he explained it, corners were 1 stud short of a channel but the assembly process was the same, 1 stud flat, 1 stud on edge creating an "L", where the 3rd stud stood on edge creating a "U", is a channel, creating the backing for intersection partitions.

A california or conventional corner is 2 studs stood on edge with indiscriminate blocking separating them.

The evolution of the terminology follows the transference of tradesmen, following the available employment opportunities.

:confused::confused::confused::(
 

He is talking about where one wall butts into another. Framers will build a 2x6 "L" for the long wall so the stud will be beside where the other wall will join and the 2x6 extends behind the stud of the second wall so you get to tie the walls together and have drywall backing on both sides.
Builders would sooner have us just use blocking in the long wall, leaving room for insulation on exterior walls.
 
He is talking about where one wall butts into another. Framers will build a 2x6 "L" for the long wall so the stud will be beside where the other wall will join and the 2x6 extends behind the stud of the second wall so you get to tie the walls together and have drywall backing on both sides.
Builders would sooner have us just use blocking in the long wall, leaving room for insulation on exterior walls.

Oh ok I get it now. Every time I google “Mormon studs” I get a whole bunch of strange hits. :)
 
Oh ok I get it now. Every time I google “Mormon studs” I get a whole bunch of strange hits. :)

Snoonyb also mentioned the U which is 3 studs or 2 studs with scraps between.
It's ok for interior but but is frowned on for outside walls because of insulation.
 
A california or conventional corner is 2 studs stood on edge with indiscriminate blocking separating them.

.

Correct, the 2 stud method may also have metal clips for sheetrock in lieu of wood blocking.
 
Oh ok I get it now. Every time I google “Mormon studs” I get a whole bunch of strange hits. :)

Since the thred has expanded to framing techniques, try a "california tie-in",
which to a traditional carpenter, would be an insult.
 
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