Side porch repair

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ome

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We are repairing our attached side enclosed porch.
22' by 8'.
12 windows and 2' wall. All wall studs on 22' outer wall will be replaced with double pressure treated 2 by 4's. Pressure Treated 2 by 8's under 2 by 12 horizontal sill(?)
All nailed with 3" stainless steel ring shanked nails.
Under each double 2 by 4 is a 2 by 8 nailed to support beams underneath the floor.
All floor joists will be sistered with same size standard lumber with 3/8-1/2" bolts , washers and lock nuts, plus hot dipped galv 3" nails.
4" thick granite 18" square blocks with 4 by 4 or 6 by 6 timbers for supports under floor joists.
No poured cement footing for side pirch, just a few for corners of front porch.
Originally was a open wrap around porch, then side porch was enclosed with windows and a knee wall.
Not sure I want to use construction adhesive for sistering beams.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Not sure how many supports to put in under the porch floor and the perimeter beams.
Two huge ciculating hot water radiators at either end of enclosed porch.
Thanks
ome

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Why are you using pressure treated wood and stainless steel nails inside above the flooring at all?
Looks like the flooring was just installed over the joist with no sub flooring, and your trying to add a new bottom plate with only a 1 X over the open floor joist.
Doing it that way there's going to be a ton of air gaps for the air from under the floor to get in.
If your trying to split the span of the joist and add support to the floor to reduce bounce and sag then you really need to add a doubled up beam down the center, not a single post holding up a single joist.
 
Why are you using pressure treated wood and stainless steel nails inside above the flooring at all?
Looks like the flooring was just installed over the joist with no sub flooring, and your trying to add a new bottom plate with only a 1 X over the open floor joist.
Doing it that way there's going to be a ton of air gaps for the air from under the floor to get in.
If your trying to split the span of the joist and add support to the floor to reduce bounce and sag then you really need to add a doubled up beam down the center, not a single post holding up a single joist.
Thanks for posting,
I have had leaks coming in around the windows and in between them, saw some water damage to the inner wall studs, so just to be on the safe side, I chose the pressure treated and ss nails just in case it leaks again.
That os not a 1 by but a 2 by sitting horizontally on the three beam header underneath at the outer wall perimeter, just over the hatch opening in the wall.
I am doing the inside first , then going under to support the floor beams or joists.
Sorry, not sure of all the terms, I am just a homeowner with experience in finish work and metal work.
Should I be starting under neath?
My plan was to open the walls, replace the vertical supports while replacing any rotting wood with treated lumber, just cause of potential water damage.
Then, I am ripping up the floor, down to the beams, and working with the beams from underneath and inside.
Then just finish with ply and new wood floor.
ome
 
I would just add to Joe's questions and ask why not just re build the outside walls properly and re install windows properly.
 
I would just add to Joe's questions and ask why not just re build the outside walls properly and re install windows properly.

Answer is, unfortunately lack of funds have forced me to do everything myself.
That being said, I do not have the experience or knowledge to do the necessary framing for the windows and rebuilding of the walls, even though I could just copy what is there, if it was done correctly.
It us not wven done correctly, so this is my only option.
ome
 
Answer is, unfortunately lack of funds have forced me to do everything myself.
That being said, I do not have the experience or knowledge to do the necessary framing for the windows and rebuilding of the walls, even though I could just copy what is there, if it was done correctly.
It us not wven done correctly, so this is my only option.
ome

There people here to help you. It is just putting wood in there to handle water is fine but if you close it up with just about anything you could end up with mold.
Even just fixing up the walls the windows should be pulled and installed properly.
At least just talking about it is cheap.
 
There people here to help you. It is just putting wood in there to handle water is fine but if you close it up with just about anything you could end up with mold.
Even just fixing up the walls the windows should be pulled and installed properly.
At least just talking about it is cheap.

Thats why I posted this question.
Am I posting in the wrong section of the forum?
I just am looking for some help, and would be willing to learn and try something new, only if it would be adviseable to do so and only with the support from others who have the experience and knowledge.
ome

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The blocks holding off the ground, you do realize that they should be at the depth of the frost level. With out that depth your porch could be subject to movement in the winter that will damage all your work?
Can you post more picture, outside showing window trim and roof over hang. Inside of the roof structure if it is open, and if you can show more of the wall in question.
Are you intending to do a finished floor and what would that be?
 
The blocks holding off the ground, you do realize that they should be at the depth of the frost level. With out that depth your porch could be subject to movement in the winter that will damage all your work?
Can you post more picture, outside showing window trim and roof over hang. Inside of the roof structure if it is open, and if you can show more of the wall in question.
Are you intending to do a finished floor and what would that be?

If it would make that much of a difference, then will go to frost line and pour cement.
The forum only lets me post one pic at a time , total.
Roof is not open. This roof has had been replaced with plywood and shingles 25 years ago.
Sank towards middle where the windows are. Reason seemed to be water damage, rotting beams, and insufficient supports.
If I dig for cement supports below frost line, how many, one in each corner, and two at a 6 ' span in the center of the 22' knee wall, then one in the middle of the floor beam, under the main beam.
I weld, if I welded 1/2" plate to "x" size round or square pipe, , what size pipe.
How many holes in a 1/2" plate and what size wood support?
I have plenty if 12" by 12" by 1/2" mild steel plate.
Should I put a flinch plate instead of sistering the floor beams.
When sistering, can I use my framing nailer, how many 3" by .131" diam per 12"?
Or should I drill and bolt, 3/8, 1/2" or larger?
Thanks for any advice in advance
one
 
I would expect your frost level to be about 3 to 4 ft, crappy digging job under there.
I would expect it could be done with three bearing points but an engineer would be looking at snow loads and all that, he would also look at window placement.

I meant can you view the structure from below or do you have a ceiling and is the ceiling flat or does it follow the roof line.
Other new people have posted more than one photo.:confused:

Sisterring joists , 3" nails 3 every 16" would do fine. Why do you need to sister them?

Condition of joists and beams as they are now?

And your plan for a finished floor?
 
I would expect your frost level to be about 3 to 4 ft, crappy digging job under there.
I would expect it could be done with three bearing points but an engineer would be looking at snow loads and all that, he would also look at window placement.

I meant can you view the structure from below or do you have a ceiling and is the ceiling flat or does it follow the roof line.
Other new people have posted more than one photo.:confused:

Sisterring joists , 3" nails 3 every 16" would do fine. Why do you need to sister them?

Condition of joists and beams as they are now?

And your plan for a finished floor?
Thank you so much,
I will go and snap some more pics. My iphone is all I have, no computer or laptop. I can post one pic per post.
We have an interior flat finished ceiling.
The roof is not visible from inside.
The structure can be seen from below thru crawling under theu the hatch.
I wanted to sister the beams just to make them stronger, or if any were cut due to plumbing, or just rotted.
Is there any negative to sistering if not needed, like extra load?
The condition of the joists and beams is good, except certain portions of the outer wall beam are a bit soft in areas.
Our plans are either oak, which was over a yellow pine subfloor.
The rest of the house I put in Brazilian cherry, just cause it came in straighter boards and we liked the hardness for our labrador.
I was going with Douglas Fir for the outside front porch floor, replacing the rotting yellow pine.
If I had money, I would put ipe t and g in as narrow as it comes.
No maintenance is my aim lol.
Thanks
And will post another pic later.
ome
 
If you can post only one photo just do another post, each will require 10 digits and look as simple as ...............
 
Can you do a rough sketch of the joist system showing beams and joists, lumber sizes and apox. measurements and take a picture of that.
And how are things attached to the house.
 
Can you do a rough sketch of the joist system showing beams and joists, lumber sizes and apox. measurements and take a picture of that.
And how are things attached to the house.

Yes, will do, just will take me till the weekend, if things go well.
I did something I never do, nor will do again, let a carpenter repair a knee wall 2 by 12 , with a 2 by 8 by 4 instead if a 2 by 8 by 6, leaving only a span of 4" from the weak spot to the end of the 2 by.
He already nailed in the double 2 by 4's for support, with SS nails.
I only have about 110 of these ,which were leftover from an older project.
Besides pulling it all out , which I would have to do, and I do not want to add further damage while attempting to do so.
Here is another pic

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I tried with three pics, only posts my first choice.
Are you using an IPhone or android? Laptop or smartphone?
 
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I have tried that for other sites, didn't work, so I will just post one at a time.
I just took some inside the room and outside, and will get to the rest by friday ir sat.
Did u get a chance to see my last question, any option to pulling it all off?
Thanks,
ome

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I have tried that for other sites, didn't work, so I will just post one at a time.
I just took some inside the room and outside, and will get to the rest by friday ir sat.
Did u get a chance to see my last question, any option to pulling it all off?
Thanks,
ome

I would hope things can be fixed up with out taking it all down.
The sag in the center is a concern and I don't understand why the wall is thicker below the windows.
Above each window should be a double 2x? supported by studs beside the windows all the way to the floor. Up under the floor there should be solid blocking under the floor sheeting to spread that load to a beam or something below. So we know some are all of that is missing.
What I would like to do is understanding the framing and support below and then look at the wall to see what can be done with that.

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