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Old 03-24-2007, 02:11 PM  
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Hello Mudmixer:
I think there has been a misunderstanding or two about Mike. He said in his first post, "I replaced one wall". then on 3-21 he said, "I increased the wall size from 8" to 12", filled solid, Durawall and straps are ready".
Now, I don't know about where you live but in Western Kentucky, Durawall means a fiberglass reinforced plaster product, mostly used in coal mines. They simply stack the concrete blocks up with them dry and trowell the Durawall onto the joints, on one side. I have heard miners say they tried to take a wall down where Durawall was used only on the surface of the joints and they couldn't salvage the blocks.
I think Mike is on a good path; it just scares me to talk about hooking a piece of equipment of any kind to the house, whereas, the come-along or large turnbuckle will move things slowly and give a chance to monitor the results as he goes.

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Old 03-24-2007, 10:11 PM  
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Filling the wall solid does increase the wall strength a little. The real benfit is if you use vertical steel. The "Durawall" he mentioned, I assumed, was "Dur O Wal" which is a generic term for the horizontal masonry joint reinforcement that ties block together(generally for shrinkage and crack control, but not for strength - runs in the wrong direction), but does not realy increase the lateral load reistance for wall.

IF the outside grade is never raised and IF there are no other loads applied it might meet code IF the soil is ideal. That is a lot of IFS. This also assumes the wall in question is either perpendicular to the first floor joists or blocked between the joists every 2' (I think the some new code say something rediculous like every 2' for the entire floor - ????? - strange). It must also have adequate anchor bolts so the house floor can brace the wall, but unfortunately, the bolts will not be there.

I wanted to point out the problem with putting lateral load on a basement wall. An external anchor would be the best to use to bring it over.

I hope the grader of the basement is not raised up since it will increase the loads beyond what is there now. Usually, the backfill behind a basement wall is not very good, especially when it gets wet.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:13 AM  
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Hey Wienerwater,

I was able to use adjustable posts and 2, 20 ton jacks to set the house back to its original position. It took about 2 hours. We used greased steel plates & steel pins under each steel beams I set the a post at each end of the center steel beam on a 45 degree angle. The center steel beam is permanant and flush mounted to the subfloor. It locks the house together. I took my grinder and cut in the top of the post to accept the steel beam. I used angle iron to keep the bottle jack at 45 degrees. The blocking was agaist the outer walls. As soon as we pumped the jacks the house started to moved. It was the coolest experience of my life. The house now sits on its new foundation. Although Mudmixer thinks Im not on the ball, I feel pretty good with the results. The bottom line is all the walls are solid with durawall, the grade is low, the footing drains work, and the architect who helped me thru this project recommended the front wall to be replaced with 12 inch block, so I went along with it. If my house cracks, shifts, leaks, bows, I will admit to this being a mistake, only time will tell.
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