Metal roof?

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JayGrimm

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My house is a cape (I live in the Northeast) with a roof that has chronic problems during winter with ice dam formation and resulting leaks. The roof has no soffit venting, and with no overhang (bottom of roof is almost flush with the side of the house), it would need something like SmartVent (or drip edge venting) to fix the problem. Insulation is another problem as what is in the upper half of the roof (very difficult to get at) is probably as old as the house (1942) and I'm concerned it may (or may not) have hazardous material (i.e. asbestos). And on top of that, about a year ago I received a notice in the mail that the shingles used on my roof (GAF Timberline, replaced about 9 years ago) were the focus of a class action lawsuit due to their tendency to crack with age.

Due to these reasons, I am considering roof replacement. Someone I consider knowledgeable suggested that a metal roof would be the way to go. He mentioned that a metal roof does not have the issues that asphalt shingles have in regard to ice dam formation (because, according to him, ice & snow slide right off a metal roof) and that I wouldnt have to deal with the ventilation & insulation issues.

Any opinions on this?

Any roof replacement I decide upon would be done professionally.
 
Do you have gutters installed? If you do, they will stop snow from sliding of the roof slope. Ice will still form if the roof isn't properly vented and insulated. Please, if you install a metal roof, do not put a screw down panel on with exposed screws. Choose a system with hidden fasteners and use a good high temperature underlayment, similar to Ice And Water shield on the entire roof deck.
 
Not saying this is proper just that a really lot of people are doing it around here and maybe also in your area. They are sick of shingles that don’t last and on older homes that are building the roof out with 2x4 laid flat to make an air space right over the old shingles 24” OC going up the roof like a ladder. Then using barn painted steel roofing screwing it down. I had the Amish do it to my garage (unheated) last year and it went thru the winter and spring fine. Some of them have been on now like that for 15 years on homes and the people that have then say they love that system.

Oldog might address the problems with doing that.
 
Metal roofing is definitely the way to go though it is more expensive.In the long run it will work out cheaper and add value to your home. Plus it is like having an the reinsurance that you will never have to re roof again.
 
Not saying this is proper just that a really lot of people are doing it around here and maybe also in your area. They are sick of shingles that don’t last and on older homes that are building the roof out with 2x4 laid flat to make an air space right over the old shingles 24” OC going up the roof like a ladder. Then using barn painted steel roofing screwing it down. I had the Amish do it to my garage (unheated) last year and it went thru the winter and spring fine. Some of them have been on now like that for 15 years on homes and the people that have then say they love that system.

Oldog might address the problems with doing that.

The problem with this is condensation will form on the bottom of the cool metal, we all know what happens when you have trapped moisture. The shingles will continue to deteriorate and I've seen them lift the battens and fracture the seems of the panels. You only have one chance to do things right, after that you are correcting compounded problems. Just my 2 cents.
 
I want to thank everyone for taking the time to comment, and I will comment when I am able to as I have my hands filled with many other things right now.

I pretty much figured I would not need gutters with metal roofing. I see several instances of metal roofs around town where the gutters are eliminated.. But are the requirements for ventilation and insulation the same as a conventional shingle roof? One of my biggest insulation problems that I can foresee is the section of roofing right over the angled part of the ceiling on the 2nd floor, just above the knee wall. The house has 6" rafters (which really are only 5 1/2"), and with a typical 2" air gap for ventilation, that only leaves 3 1/2" for insulation. How would I get a suitable R value with that little space?

And how to I go about finding a qualified installer? Do regular roofers also install metal roofing? Or is this something that I should seek someone specialized?

Thanks again.
 
Where I live a roofer is a roofer and they do it all, but some should be window washers.
For the insulation in that part your best bet would be to remove drywall and add to the depth of the rafters.
 
Jay, ventilation is not so much about the roofing material on a metal roof as it is about removing thermal heat transfer into the house envelope. Excessive heat can cause deterioration to the wood structure and decking. Heat transfer also makes your HVAC unit work harder to cool during the summer months.

Not all roofers understand the complexity of installing metal roofing. Metal roofing, when installed properly will be more than double the cost of a dimensional asphalt shingle. Using the proper drip edge/lock strips, wall flashings, underlayments, capping, "Z" bar, valleys, will maximize the life cycle of the roof system. 30, 40, 50 year paints are also available. We have a Knudson metal pan machine we bring to the job site and form the panels on site. This minimizes the scratches and waste of material. When searching an installer, ask for references, visit their installation sites, ask if they are certified by the metal MFG as an approved installer. There are a lot of short cuts that can be made that will make that expensive roof an expensive nightmare.

And remember, choosing the cheapest price on a roof installation gives you the cheapest roof. I sell roofing for a living, I'm never the cheapest price, ever.
 
Yes you should seek out someone that has experience with metal roofing. Your least expensive is to choose a contractor who is doing his own work. Theres alot of companies that have high pressure salespeople that charge a fortune.The more people involved the higher the cost.
As for eavestrough/gutters its best still to have them so you dont end up with foundation issues. Most metal roofs come with a snowblock system to protect them from sliding snow
There are also granualted steel roofing shingles made of steel that look like asphalt but last a lifetime.
 
After meeting with some roofing people, I'm beginning to have a change of heart on a metal roof. One roofer who came to inspect my roof suggested an asphalt roof replacement (lifetime shingles). They would strip off the entire roof, install ice & water shield up the entire back side of the roof (north side, where all my ice dam problems have been), and ice & water shield up the front 9 feet.

I must admit I like the sound of that idea, assuming ice & water shield is as effective as I'm led to believe. I'd like to know what you guys think of that. Is ice & water shield all the way up a good way to go? I may have him do the whole front roof with it.

We did discuss venting solutions as well. Drip edge venting and/or smart venting would probably be employed.
 
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Lifetime roofing??? I would think not.Most asphalt shingles tend to falter after 7 years though the manufacturers make other claims.Talk to someone whom has ever tried to claim a warranty.Its a good solution if you dont plan on living there forever
 

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