PVC fitting leaks

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Raindem

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We have a buried PVC line going to the garden. One of the "T" fittings has started to leak where one of the lines enters the fitting. It's not a geyser, just a steady fast drip. But it's enough to pool the water above ground.

If I understand it correctly, to replace this fitting would require cutting all 3 lines a couple feet back from the T, then installing those expanding unions on each line, and then fitting in the replacement T.

Is there any other way? Is there a product that can be applied to the exterior of the leaking joint? Some kind of special wrap? Is there a way to cut out just the line that is leaking and somehow get the glued part out of the fitting?

It's not that I'm trying to avoid the work (well, OK, maybe just a little), but it seems crazy to create 3 more places for future leakage just to fix one.

Eager to hear the opinion of the experts. Thanks.

Curt
 
Make sure that the joints were actually cemented when they were installed. You could also try just slopping on more pvc cement on the dry joint, that may fix it. I wouldn't use expansion joints if you end up replacing the fitting, just use regular couplings. You'll just have to dig back a bit on 2 of the connections to have flex to get them installed.
 
Most PVC breaks occur at the elbows, and nothing short of a replacement is going to work for a pipe under pressure. Here is one of my elbows that broke and I have to demo out an entire concrete patio, then replace, at a cost of $6k

Havasu pics (55).jpg

havasu pics (86).jpg
 
Make sure that the joints were actually cemented when they were installed. You could also try just slopping on more pvc cement on the dry joint, that may fix it. I wouldn't use expansion joints if you end up replacing the fitting, just use regular couplings. You'll just have to dig back a bit on 2 of the connections to have flex to get them installed.

Yes, it was cemented. It was installed about 4 years ago and just started leaking within the last week.
 
Most PVC breaks occur at the elbows, and nothing short of a replacement is going to work for a pipe under pressure. Here is one of my elbows that broke and I have to demo out an entire concrete patio, then replace, at a cost of $6k

$6K. Ouch! Fortunately mine is more accessible.
 
Use "slip couplings" to put the pipe back together and you won't need to flex anything. They're the same as regular PVC couplings but lack he ridge halfway into the coupling so you can slide it into place over both pipes. Get the 'tee' from a plumbing supply house if you can, they usually carry a better grade of fittings than the big-box stores do.

Phil
 
Fittings are usually a pretty tight fit. I'm having a hard time imagining sliding those slip couplings back and forth in order to glue them.
 
There also called repair couplings, I premark the pipe with a pencil where the fitting should end up on the pipe to makes sure to get the most contact.
Once the couplings covering the ends of the cut pipe as you slide it in place you can not tell where they cuts are without a mark.
Make sure to deburr the cuts so the coupling slides on better.
Your not going to be able to drain all the water out of the lines so I'd be using a Wet Set glue.
http://www.oatey.com/brands/harvey/...ts/pvc-wet-set-wet-conditions-hot-blue-cement
 
How far back from the T should I cut the pipes?

Is there a way to ream out the old fitting so I only have to replace 1 pipe (the one that's leaking)? I'm thinking like a drill attachment that will clean out the old pipe without damaging the wall of the T fitting. Someone should invent one.

Thanks

Curt
 
They do make a reamer. It might not be practical money wise for a DIY.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvTZHp8cF7c[/ame]
 
How far back from the T should I cut the pipes?

Is there a way to ream out the old fitting so I only have to replace 1 pipe (the one that's leaking)? I'm thinking like a drill attachment that will clean out the old pipe without damaging the wall of the T fitting. Someone should invent one.

Thanks

Curt

mine was on sale when i bought it for $65.00 it does 1''
another $65 for the 3/4 i was not on sale

i have 3/4,1'', 1 1/2' 2'' 3'' and 4''
 
I've tried adding extra glue, RTV silicone, and the flex seal tape. None of them worked. And it's not a bad leak. Just a drip, drip, drip.

Guess I'll just suck it up and replace the fitting.
 
that is the only way to repair it,,
 
If you do not have a lot of room. Cut all three lines and put 90 bends facing up on all three. Build your new tee with stubs and all three have 90 bends facing down. Then you connect the 90 to 90. I only recommend this when there is no other way because it adds several fittings.
 
I should be OK for room as long as I can use those slip couplers that were mentioned.
 
I don't personally trust those slip couplings. My employees love them.
 
If you do not have a lot of room. Cut all three lines and put 90 bends facing up on all three. Build your new tee with stubs and all three have 90 bends facing down. Then you connect the 90 to 90. I only recommend this when there is no other way because it adds several fittings.

I did a similar a few weeks ago when I discovered a broken tee under my sidewalk. We placed 90 degree elbows and aimed them sideways to a place where we could easily work on them.

20160726_174252.jpg
 
There is a slip joint repair fitting that would also be an expansion joint that should be used for long runs. That would save the corners and a lot of work
 

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