Installing my dishwasher

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farmerjohn1324

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I got the countertop off and now need to install the dishwasher.

Three parts:

1. Drain hose. This is easy. I just cut a hole in the cabinet and hook it up to the garbage disposal.

2. Hot water supply. There is a plastic "tee" coming from the hot water line that I'm assuming should go to the dishwasher. I am having trouble getting it off so I can bring it to Home Depot to find the right tube to connect to the dishwasher. It's the kind that you push and it should come off, but it's not.

3. Electrical. I see the white and black wire on the dishwasher. I need to know my options for connecting to the house. Behind the area where the dishwasher is, there is a section of drywall cut out that exposes two 120 volt wire casings that go to outlets and lights in the kitchen. There is also the 220 volt wire that goes to the range. Can I splice into these 120 volt wires? Also, there are two available outlets if I wanted to use a cord whip (?) [a thing that plugs into the outlet with a frayed wire coming out of it that I could connect to the dishwasher]. I would like to hook directly up to the house wiring if possible, but only if it's going to be safe.

I have another unrelated question about the plumbing below the sink. The hot and cold water each enter from PVC pipe. However, the cold supply also has a copper tube going to a clear tube that enters the cold water supply. What is the need for both?

Unfortunately, I cannot upload pictures at the moment.
 
Use the cord whip and outlet.
For hit water supply you'll need a quick connect fitting.
Push in on the hose and push in on the retaining ring then pull the hose out.
For faucet you can change those out with one piece supply lines.
 
I got the countertop off and now need to install the dishwasher.

1. Drain hose. This is easy. I just cut a hole in the cabinet and hook it up to the garbage disposal.

The drain hose should enter the sink cabinet near its base, loop up to just under the counter top and then into the disposal. This is known as the high-loop method.

2. Hot water supply. There is a plastic "tee" coming from the hot water line that I'm assuming should go to the dishwasher. I am having trouble getting it off so I can bring it to Home Depot to find the right tube to connect to the dishwasher. It's the kind that you push and it should come off, but it's not.

If you do not have a valve at the sink, you have to shut the water off to the whole house to do repairs.

3. Electrical. I see the white and black wire on the dishwasher. I need to know my options for connecting to the house. Behind the area where the dishwasher is, there is a section of drywall cut out that exposes two 120 volt wire casings that go to outlets and lights in the kitchen. There is also the 220 volt wire that goes to the range. Can I splice into these 120 volt wires? Also, there are two available outlets if I wanted to use a cord whip (?) [a thing that plugs into the outlet with a frayed wire coming out of it that I could connect to the dishwasher]. I would like to hook directly up to the house wiring if possible, but only if it's going to be safe.

Use an appliance pigtail and an outlet, so you do not have to run out and shut off a breaker that also feeds other outlets.

I have another unrelated question about the plumbing below the sink. The hot and cold water each enter from PVC pipe. However, the cold supply also has a copper tube going to a clear tube that enters the cold water supply. What is the need for both?

There should also be shut-off valves, (angle stops), for the sink.
 
Use an appliance pigtail and an outlet, so you do not have to run out and shut off a breaker that also feeds other outlets.

Just a thought...

If the home was not originally wired for a DW, or possibly the original circuit (old code) was for the DW, GD and possibly the refrigerator, or if unsure altogether, maybe plot an electrical map to see what circuit(s) you can tie into without overloading that circuit.

Code now calls for a separate 20A circuit for a DW. Have you checked the new DW specs to see how large of a circuit (15A or 20A) it needs? And also, if a circuit board DW, a surge protection outlet should be considered.

All of the above is IMO and yours and others mileage may vary... :cool:
 
Do you see the tube that branches off the right of the hot water supply? It goes to a white plastic tee with blue valve. Do I need to replace this? I'm having trouble getting it off so I can bring it to Home Depot. Do you know what size/type of tube it needs? Is this the same diameter tube that will connect to the dishwasher?

IMG_20160929_115506325.jpg
 
DW supply are generally 3/8's and I personally would not use plastic for hot water, instead, copper.

The connection is probably full of calcium and will take some working with.
 
The valve that should stop water going to the plastic tee of the dishwasher will not close. It simply won't turn.

Is this something WD-40 will take care of? I've tried grabbing it with pliers and everything.

I can't replace the plastic tee or put on the new dishwasher line if I can't close this, unless I want to turn off water to the whole house.
 
The valve that should stop water going to the plastic tee of the dishwasher will not close. It simply won't turn.

Is this something WD-40 will take care of? I've tried grabbing it with pliers and everything.

I can't replace the plastic tee or put on the new dishwasher line if I can't close this, unless I want to turn off water to the whole house.

You really need to take all of that apart, install new shut-off valves and run at the minimum a 3/8" copper tubing to the DW.

You are worrying and working yourself to death (IMO).
 
The valve is also probably full of calcium, which is more prevalent on the hot water side.

Here is a lesson for the future, open the valve all the way, then back it off 1/4 too 1/2 turn and that way you have two ways to turn the valve, and break the obstruction.

Just under the handle there is a nut, called a packing nut, try loosening that slightly before turning the handle.

If that doesn't work, then replace the valve, and so you know, the are available as a single assembly with both 1/2" and 3/8" in one valve body, threaded and compression.
 
I tried closing the valve with a hammer. I ended up breaking the incoming CPVC. Luckily, my water heater has a shut off because I couldn't find the main shutoff for the house.

Any idea where it might be?

I bought new CPVC and a new valve. I'm just waiting for the PVC cement to dry so I can finish hooking everything up.

Hopefully, I can take it from there.
 
If you are on city water it should be just before it enters the dwelling.
 
Dishwasher is hooked up fine. Countertop is back on.

The only problems now are:

1. The hot water sink supply hose started leaking and not from the new seal, from just above the connector. I need to replace this, but Home Depot is closed.

2. There's a 5.25" gap between the dishwasher and the closest cabinet unit. I have some board from what I removed, but I will need to build some kind of supporting structure for it because there is nothing to nail it to. Any ideas?

IMG_20161001_225916248.jpg
 
Also unrelated. What is this copper tube/plastic tube that is going into or out of the cold water valve?

I don't understand the purpose of it. The cold water comes in from the PVC in the back and goes to the sink and nowhere else, right? Is this plastic/copper going TO or FROM the valve?

Might it go to my refrigerator ice maker, which is on the other side of the room?

sink.jpg
 
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There's a 5.25" gap between the dishwasher and the closest cabinet unit. I have some board from what I removed, but I will need to build some kind of supporting structure for it because there is nothing to nail it to. Any ideas?

Pull the DW out even with the tile, screw a cleat to the side on the sink base, the screws are driven from inside the sink base, for backing and install you new Face Frame filler to it.
 
Might it go to my refrigerator ice maker, which is on the other side of the room?

Probably. It appears to be the right size.

Some where there will be a shut-off valve for the water, could be under the house near an underfloor access, could be in the garage near the overhead door.

There is an alternative and It's a "street key", which is a metal "T" with an upside down "U" welded to it. The "U" will fit the water meter shut-off valve.

You can see an example at "home despersdo".
 
Pull the DW out even with the tile, screw a cleat to the side on the sink base, the screws are driven from inside the sink base, for backing and install you new Face Frame filler to it.

Does a cleat look like the pictures here?

https://www.google.com/search?q=cle...vLvPAhWJ4SYKHRGtDd8Q_AUICCgB&biw=1366&bih=651

I pulled the dishwasher out, but I can't picture the rest.

What is the purpose of the cleat? Is it so that the dishwasher doesn't tip forward when I open the doors? Because that is what is happening.

The sink is on the left side of the dishwasher and the gap is on the right side.
 
When I pull the dishwasher out, it tips forward? What's the way to fix this? Should I anchor the steel frame to the concrete or screw the tabs on the top to the counter?

IMG_20161002_063839191.jpg

IMG_20161002_063847103.jpg

IMG_20161002_063818352.jpg

IMG_20161002_063926806.jpg
 
Does a cleat look like the pictures here?
What is the purpose of the cleat? Is it so that the dishwasher doesn't tip forward when I open the doors? Because that is what is happening.

A "cleat," in this instance, is a carpenters term for "backing", and you actually need it in two places; tight behind the lip of the counter top which will allow you to fasten the DW thru the two triangular top attachments brackets and prevent the appliance from tipping forward.

For this a piece of 1X2 will be sufficient.

Use glue, pilot and countersink the screws ONLY until the heads are flush.

The 2nd is as described previously and because the cabinets are prefab, there will be a lip where the face frame of the sink base extends beyond the cabinet box. Just hold it tight against the lip.
 
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Unless your replacing an existing Dishwasher, you may need to knock the plug out of the Garbage Disposal for it to drain.
 

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