Toilet flange mounting

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MikeIsMad

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I'm replacing a toilet flange in a concrete slab. Looks like I'll need to add some concrete to secure the new flange. Originally I thought I could just clean it out a bit then pour some concrete in the small area around the drain pipe. But I'm thinking that'sprobably not correct and I will need to break out some concrete around it and pour fresh concrete. Is that correct?

IMG_5299.jpg
 
I'm not opposed to that idea, but will foam really hold down the flange?
 
Foam will not hold down the flange. It needs to be screwed down to the floor.
 
You will probably have better luck with mortar and a grout bag, depending upon the size of the cavity you're filling.
 
Ok, I'm going to go pick up one of these larger flanges, but I'm a bit concerned of the customer reviews stating that it must be modified to fit the toilet.
 
The problem with this larger flange is that I cannot fit it under the lip of the drain pipe. Shouldn't it be installed flush to the floor? The breakaway flange is nice since it can easily be installed under the lip and flush to the floor.

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However, with the breakaway you are still left with the original problem, and while a small amount of mortar will crumble, when you fill the void completely the mortar adheres to the surrounding mortar essentially becoming 1 piece, which can then be drilled and anchored into.

While you are at it you might consider one of these instead of those you are considering;http://www.oatey.com/doc/Twist_N_Set_Flange.pdf

Here is another that may fit;https://www.danco.com/product/hydroseat-flange-repair/
 
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Yes that is true. Now I was already prepared to break out some concrete then pour new and bought this fast setting concrete.

RapidSet.png

Do you think this would adhere to what is already there?

I saw that twist and Set Flange but thought that was just for cast iron I'm not sure it would work in mine anyhow.
 
that flange on the pipe now, is a broken flange, it needs to be removed and replaced with a whole flange
the repair ring you are atempting to use will not work in that application
the toilt will leak


you need a hammer drill and some inserts to drive intoo the concrete

https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973237035-Concrete/dp/B00L1J1KTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490470772&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+concrete+anchors

drill a hole, drop the anchor in, hit it with a hammer to set it

then cut off the excess thread
 
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Yes it will work, however the key to the adhesion will be in how liquid the mix is and the amount of tamping you do, because it needs to flow as well as adhere to be able to fill any voids.

There are a couple of models of that repair flange and the key is the fit of the gasket.
 
that flange on the pipe now, is a broken flange, it needs to be removed and replaced with a whole flange
the repair ring you are atempting to use will not work in that application
the toilt will leak.

I'm not liking your advice at the moment. I just used a hammer drill and dig out a little, then pour in some quick setting concrete.

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I had planned on using some of these concrete after the concrete cures.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tapcon-3...eter-Concrete-Anchors-10-Pack-11413/203770115
 
Hopefully, you are not using those hex washer heads pictured.

Normal concrete is 28days dry to reach it's optimum tensile strength, so waiting 3-4 days will allow the product you used to gain consolidation.

You do understand that the tapcons are only holding by the threds, while the expansion anchor holds by compression and has a far superior pull-out resistance than the tapcons.
 

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