Garage Overhaul - Seeking Advice

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AJH

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Hi guys and gals! Completely new to the forum here but hoping to get some advice. I'm going to overhaul my garage with the following:

New Ceiling
New Lights / Fans
Finished Walls
Epoxy Floor
Enclosed Shelves & Workbench(s)

I'm thinking about starting with the ceiling, but I'm not sure if that is best. On a project like this should I work from the top down or start from the bottom up? Walls before ceiling?

I'd like to do something semi-rustic like one of these examples, but not pallet wood - do they have paneling that would look nice or do you recommend some other method? Here are some pictures of the current garage ceiling as it stands now as well...

Anxious to get started and discuss this more. Please advise. Thanks!

new ceiling example 1.jpg

new ceiling example 2.jpg

garage-ceiling-1.png

garage-ceiling-2.png

garage-ceiling-3.png
 
Is the garage attached? Is there living space above? The sheetrock should have at a minimum have a tape coat and second coat on the seams and nails/screws if there is living space above. The common walls with the house should have at least 2 coats as well.

I would insulate and sheetrock the exterior walls, and tape and mud all the sheetrock. The challenge with 4x8 paneling is handling the butt joints on the 4' ends. The 8' seams tend to have vertical groves that hide the seams. You could go with something like this at $1.86/square foot. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Design-Innovations-Reclaimed-14-sq-ft-Weathered-Wall-Plank-Kit/999967139

For cabinets there are any number of solutions depending on how much you want to spend. If you can find used kitchen cabinets at a good price that is one option.
 
It will be the little things that drive you crazy, like dealing with these wires around the doors with out damaging the girders.
 
Hi boys and girls - thank you so much for the replies. Here is some additional information:

1. The garage is attached (3 car garage) and there is an attic / open space above.

2. What is a "tape coat"?

3. If I were to go with a plank kit which would look nicer than the panels, how much weight would that add to the ceiling and would that even be a concern? (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Design-Innovations-Reclaimed-14-sq-ft-Weathered-Wall-Plank-Kit/999967139)

4. Dealing with that front wall with all the wires is going to suck, absolutely - but I am looking forward to the "learning experience" it will no doubt be...

Thanks guys! Talk soon.
 
Not much weight. It. Is very thin.

The tape coat is the first coat of drywall compound or mud applied to the joints. A thin bed of mud is applied and a paper tape is embedded in the mud and covered with a light coat of mud. Drywall forms a firewall as is doesn't readily burn. The mud makes the seams fire rated as well. The tape keeps the mud from cracking at the seams.
 
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Hi guys. First off, I want to thank you again for your help so far - I've been working on saving up a few bucks and I'm looking to start this project in January. With that said, I have one more major question:

In a situation like this where I am planning on overhauling the entire garage, what is the proper order to work in? I'll be coating the floor, doing the insulation and walls, putting in new lights, new fans, replacing all the outlets etc. However, is there an order in which I should plan to do things that will cause me less trouble?

Does it make sense to do the ceiling or the floor first? Please keep in mind I know very little about projects like this, and I'm hoping to get some insight from people that have done room / garage overhauls and avoid some of the more common pitfalls along the way.

Please let me know what you think.
Thanks!
 
It's the same order as building a house.
#1, Rough in all the plumbing if there is any.
#2, Rough in any new wiring, if your replacing the existing outlets pull them out and remove them, then coil the wires back in the box.
#3 Insulate.
#4, Install sheet rock, finish, prime and paint two coats. (enamel paint is far tougher and highly scrubbable)
#5, Paint the floor.
 
And the pipes B4 the wiring because the pipes work on gravity but the wires can go any which way and still work.:p
 
A few tips, no one has ever installed to many lights in a garage, Make sure there's enough over the work bench area.
All wiring for the outlets should be 12-2 GFI protected on a 20 amp breaker.
I always install two duplex outlets over the work bench area.
When wiring a new garage I always run run a line big enough for at least a 60 amp. panel, always run 240 volts to the panel.
That way if someone wants to use a welder, larger power tool, bigger A/C unit the power will already be there to do it and you do not need to go back and redo.
Way to many times I've had to to deal someone running 12-2 wiring to a garage,
 
Awesome - thank you guys - and I assume the ceiling would essentially get covered up just like the walls in step #4?
 
(I mean at the same time in the series of steps)
 
Thank you both - so the missing nailers - is that something that I will be able to see (and fix) when I pull the old sheetrock down? Thoughts on this stuff?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sheetro...-ft-x-8-ft-Gypsum-Board-14113411708/202530243

Also, I know that everything needs to come off the ceiling. The old lights and fans are getting trashed anyway and replaced. But as far as putting up the new sheetrock do I just need to unscrew the garage door stuff a bit at a time, work around it then screw the stuff back in?

That seems like a stupid question now that I say it out loud... actually, I'm most concerned with the heating unit in the back corner. The garage door tracks and stuff shouldn't be too difficult...

Thanks!
 
A few tips, no one has ever installed to many lights in a garage, Make sure there's enough over the work bench area.
About 500 lux at the working level height should do it. Some of the fluorescent light suppliers can help you with this, and their computers help them with this.
But LED lighting is probably easier to troubleshoot and doesn't have starting problems in cold weather.
 
Yeah I think just the benefit of not having to mess with bulbs would be a huge plus. I mean looking at what I have, can you think of a situation where you would prefer these over LEDs at this point?
 
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