The sooner newbies learn to solder, the fewer compression fittings there are in this world, and that's a blessing for all concerned.
Solder a ball valve upstream of the new sillcock so that you can shut off water to the sillcock to do any repairs to it without shutting off the water to your whole house.
Before buying the ball valve, check that it has a packing nut. That's because lots of ball valves are now being made without packing nuts. It seems that manufacturers are believing their own advertising and are operating under the misguided belief that their valves are made so well that they will never leak from the stem. I have more faith in a packing nut than what I'm told in the advertising.
The packing nut is what this diagram calls a "Thrust Washer & Nut":
You can see a packing nut on this ball valve right under the handle. The packing nut on every ball valve you're likely to see will be right under the handle like you see here:
If you don't see the flats of a hex shaped packing nut, then the valve doesn't have a packing nut, and I wouldn't buy it.
Locate the ball valve a few feet or so upstream of the sillcock so that when you next need to replace that sillcock you'll have enough empty pipe between it and the ball valve that you won't have any problem getting up to soldering temperatures.