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Old 09-09-2010, 04:19 PM  
JeremyB
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Default Bathtub question, help

Hi Guys

I noticed in the last couple days that my hot water tap has been making a hissing noise and its taking more and more force to close it. I know that it needs to be replaced but am kind of iffy about replacing it, I have attatched a picture of my tap. would anybody be able to walk me thre the steps to replace this or maybe a totorial or youtube video, im confident that this isnt a huge job but want to make it as easy on me as possible

heres the pic

thanks again for any help

Jeremy



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Old 09-09-2010, 05:17 PM  
kok328
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spray behind the hex nut with some PB Blaster (or some other type of penatrating oil, this step is optional if the hex nut comes loose on your first try) and let that soak for a bit.
Remove the hex nut and pull out the stem.
Take the stem to you local hardware and ask them for a replacement.
Lube the O-ring of the new stem with silicone grease (or vasoline), press it into place and reinstall the hex nut snuggly.
Good Luck.



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Old 09-09-2010, 08:25 PM  
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1. You need to shut off the water to that faucet before you do anything. That's pretty obvious, but it's important that you know this. There should be a pair of shut off valves somewhere to shut the hot and cold water off to the bathroom so that you can do plumbing repairs like this.

2. The "cartridge" consists of that hex nut thingy and the "spindle" inside it that you turn with the faucet handle. Consequently, that hex nut thingy has both an exterior male thread (by which you screw the cartridge into the faucet body) and an internal female thread by which the spindle moves forward and back (when turned with the faucet knob) so that it controls the flow of water out of the tub spout.

KOK is right that you need to replace that cartridge (aka: "hex nut") by turning it counter clockwise, just like a light bulb. However, it'd be best to:

A) shut off the water to the faucet, then
B) open the faucet a turn or two with the handle you've removed, and THEN
C) turn that hex nut counter clockwise.

The reason why you want to open the faucet before turning the hex nut is because of the fact that it has both an exterior male thread and an interior female thread. Those two threads have a different "pitch" and so they each want that hex nut thingy to move a different distance as you turn it, and that will cause the hex nut thingy to "jam" or "bind" as soon as you start to turn it (if you don't open the faucet first).

You might expect that shouldn't be a problem since the spindle inside the hex nut should turn with the hex nut, and it would if you open the faucet first. But, right now the washer at the opposite end of that spindle is pressed tightly against the seat inside the faucet, and friction between the rubber washer and the seat will prevent the spindle from turning with the hex nut thingy. So, when you try to turn the hex nut, it wants to back out one distance according to the male threads on it's outside, and a different distance according to the female threads on it's inside, and that causes it to just jam up. (and using more penetrating oil on it won't help at all because that's not what the problem is).

So, open the faucet a turn or two before you try to turn that hex nut, and do the same if that hex nut start to jam when you're unscrewing it.

3. I think you should look on the covers and knobs you've removed to see if you can find the name of the manufacturer of your faucet. That's what the guy at the hardware store is going to want to know in order to give you the correct replacement cartridge. However, if you don't know what kind of tub faucet you have, I'd suggest going to:

Kissler & Co. Inc. - Value, Selection, Service since 1923

and downloading their "Faucet Parts" catalogue and looking through the cartridges in there to see which one(s) looks like yours, and then confirm you can buy those same cartridges from your local hardware store or home center.

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Old 09-10-2010, 07:10 PM  
JeremyB
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cheers guys for the very in depth response. It gives new homeowners like myself the confidence to try a project, and thanks Nestor Kelebay for explaining things like opening the faucet before trying to remove the hex nut , I never would have thought about that. I have a question though about putting vasoline on the rubber o ring, doesnt vasoline eat rubber? should I maybe use a white grease or a grease with Molybdenum?. And If the seat has been damaged I should also replace that too right?

again thanks Nestor Kelebay and Kok328, I really do appreciate it very much

Jeremy

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Old 09-10-2010, 08:24 PM  
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No, the best lubricant you can use on any plumbing part is silicone grease. It's made by thickening a silicone based oil.

You should be able to buy a small 2 oz tub of silicone grease in the plumbing aisle of any home center. It's fairly expensive (about $3 for a 2 oz tub), but it's the best grease you can get for plumbing applications.

Yes, after removing the cartridge (the hex nut thingy), shine a light into the faucet housing and take a look at the seat. It shouldn't have any scratches or anything on it's surface.

If it does, you'll have to buy a seat removal tool (or even an six sided Allan key driver that you can use with a 3/8 inch drive ratchet) that will fit the seat and allow you to turn it. It screw out just like the cartridge.

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Old 09-11-2010, 08:05 AM  
JeremyB
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well guys I got the tap replaced this morning, thanks for the help I really appreciated it

Jeremy

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Old 12-29-2010, 06:16 PM  
JeremyB
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Hi Guys

Back with a update, I noticed again that the tap was leaking so I replaced the whole cartridge and Its still dripping a bit and I can hear a small hissing when I put my ear next to it, what can the prob be? when I was at the hardware store in the fall they told me that I didnt have to lube the o-ring and it said on the package that I didnt have to but was wondering if that might be the problem?

any help would be great

Jeremy

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Old 01-01-2011, 11:19 PM  
Redwood
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Did you replace the seat inside the valve body?

Have a look see at the link below...
http://411plumb.com/how-to-replace-faucet-washers

The water leaking paste the washer erodes the metal from the seat leaving a groove that will tear up the new washer.

Kinda like what the Colorado River did to the Grand Canyon...



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