DIY roofer?

[bryce]

I've got a problem with rot in the roof, i can smell it some times when it is hot.
What happen was they put a new metal roof over the old shingles and never removed them or fixed the rotten roof boards.
Can i do this with scaffolding? 10' scaffolding is 400lbs
I guess one person can set this up? Then i would have to take it down and move it or roll at least at the back of the house.
Would it be safe enough? Looks slippery this metal roof. It is steep too.
I guess the pro roofer would use ladders and jump around like monkeys up there? Probably need to replace 10 of the roof boards.

 

[Wuzzat?]

First check how much your existing, good, roof boards deflect at the span center from the roofing load they now hold up. Use a straightedge or string and average a few readings.

If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.

You may want to rent a portable AC with a long duct.

 

[oldognewtrick]

If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.QUOTE]

You are kidding aren't you, have you ever done a repair like this?

 

[Wuzzat?]

If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.QUOTE]

You are kidding aren't you, have you ever done a repair like this?

Nobody answered in 7 hours and these last posts are not really answers.

My bad, wrong mental image. . .

If each between-rafter section of the rotten board is 22-1/2" long, then a 2x2x22-1/2 goes between the rafters and long screws are angled up through the 2x2 and up into the rafters to support the new 22-1/2" board.
For less added weight use an aluminum channel, U shaped or rectangular.

I never had to do this repair, not yet.

Structurally I think it should work but I welcome a "design review".

I'd think the worst part, besides the heat, would be climbing over the roof trusses while avoiding protruding roofing nail points. So, wait till fall. Meanwhile, get in shape, 'cause this type of work is stressful, dirty, physically demanding and can be dangerous.

What do you suggest for the OP?
He doesn't seem too hot on climbing on this roof.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=brainstorming&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

[oldognewtrick]

Wuzzat, you have obviously little or no experience in roofing and roof structure experience. Rafters and decking get their strength by spanning over multiple distance. Piecing in from the bottom will compromise the integrity of the structure itself.

The OP has more than one issue besides decking. The metal roof was installed over existing shingles and bad wood. When you roof over an existing surface you accept the condition of the roof deck, as there is no way to correct issues without a complete tear off. Installing metal roofing (OP actually have agricultural panels) over the shingles will continue to have decay of the shingles. They will cause the panels to fracture the lap seam as they continue to deteriorate from heat, even if installed on batten strips. Exposed fasteners will fail at the rubber grommet and need to be replaced. Metal expands over an inch in a 100' run, this expansion of the metal will cause the screw holes to elongate and bigger screws will need to be installed eventually.

The proper cure is remove the metal, remove the old layers of shingles, fix any decking issues and then install a proper roof system. There is no short cut that will be a value for this problem. What we are seeing is the result of someone taking previous shortcuts and compounding problems by improper techniques. They didn't even put the fasteners in the proper locations. The install specks on that product is the screws should be put on the flat of the pan to provide a flat surface for the grommet to seal to. If the panel is installed with nails, they are to be put in the ribs.

 

[Wuzzat?]

Wuzzat, you have obviously little or no experience in roofing and roof structure experience. Rafters and decking get their strength by spanning over multiple distance. Piecing in from the bottom will compromise the integrity of the structure itself.

The OP has more than one issue besides decking. The metal roof was installed over existing shingles and bad wood. When you roof over an existing surface you accept the condition of the roof deck, as there is no way to correct issues without a complete tear off. Installing metal roofing (OP actually have agricultural panels) over the shingles will continue to have decay of the shingles. They will cause the panels to fracture the lap seam as they continue to deteriorate from heat, even if installed on batten strips. Exposed fasteners will fail at the rubber grommet and need to be replaced. Metal expands over an inch in a 100' run, this expansion of the metal will cause the screw holes to elongate and bigger screws will need to be installed eventually.

The proper cure is remove the metal, remove the old layers of shingles, fix any decking issues and then install a proper roof system. There is no short cut that will be a value for this problem. What we are seeing is the result of someone taking previous shortcuts and compounding problems by improper techniques. They didn't even put the fasteners in the proper locations. The install specks on that product is the screws should be put on the flat of the pan to provide a flat surface for the grommet to seal to. If the panel is installed with nails, they are to be put in the ribs.

I'll go with that. The OP may, also.

 

[oldognewtrick]

http://docserver.nrca.net/technical/8135.pdf

Something to consider when getting a metal roof.

 

[Wuzzat?]

10 of the roof boards.

What percent of the total roof board area is rotten?

 

[nealtw]

What percent of the total roof board area is rotten?

He can use his X-ray eyes for this.
Heat will dammage the roofing under the metal the rot will be caused by moisture getting into the system from the house without enough ventulation.
With a proper vapour barrier you would not be able to smell anything going on above the ceiling.

 

[Wuzzat?]

He can use his X-ray eyes for this.
Heat will dammage the roofing under the metal the rot will be caused by moisture getting into the system from the house without enough ventulation.
With a proper vapour barrier you would not be able to smell anything going on above the ceiling.

"comply with the wishes of (someone) in order to keep them content, however unreasonable such wishes might be."

 

[nealtw]

"comply with the wishes of (someone) in order to keep them content, however unreasonable such wishes might be."

My wish is for good usable information that a questioner or reader can put to good use in their decision making on how best to proceed.

 

[bryce]

Yes this project is coming up in a week or so.

What you seem to be saying is i should put shingles on instead?

I assume the roof is strong enough because there is a lot of snow and ice at times.

I found a guy for $35 a hour, he thinks 2-3 days. He doesn't care about the summer heat.

I do know the inside condition because i worked from the inside. It is about 10% of the planks, around gutters, around the vents and chimney.

They look black the old planks. I think it will be a lot better when the shingles are removed.

I was planning to put typar under there, then put the old roofing back on then paint with solar elastic paint.

I was really asking would the scaffolding make it safe or not? This guy will just jump up there like monkey and i can hand up stuff.

Metal roof is good here because the snow just slides off and no ice dams.

 

[bud16415]

So your plan is to start with removing all the screws from the whole house and then the roofing. Then remove shingles down to the decking and then remove and replace 10% of the planking that’s bad. Cover the roof then with some rolled product replace the metal roofing and then paint it with the Henry product.

Sounds like an ambitious project. If you tell us the square footage of the roofing to be done I think some of the roof experts will be able to advise if one man and a helper can do that in 3 days.

Some of my thoughts are do you have a source for planking in the correct thickness? Will you damage the roofing getting it free and back on? Is the henry coating the right stuff for this application? Should you be adding nailers to make an air gap between the old roof and the metal roofing?

 

[bryce]

Hi Bud, it's about 1000 sq. Same guy just excavate the half the side of the house for me in 5 hours, he's a german machine. He said 4 days, but i think if i help him if could be less.
I imagine the panel come of easily by unscrewing them. I was planning to replace the screws, new rubber. I'm not sure what olddog was saying about screwing them in the flat, wouldn't they leak?
As for the planking, i've got a bunch of 3/4" plywood, the good Colombia stuff. There are few dips in the roof but the roof beams seem fine. We can just shim them up.
What is happen now in some places is the metal roofing is shrinking up because of the bend, cause the over hand to shrink causing water to slip behind the gutters...

The roofing should be easy to get back on since we know how it looks already and it already formed. The paint should fix any perfections.

The other things is the metal roof seems to have a natural ridge vent on top, but there are shingles underneath blocking it. Also with valleys there should be plenty of air flow.

I would probably take 2 weeks to do it. I wonder how you get up the slipper panels? suction cups? Perhaps just try. With regular roofing job you put some brace onto a roof beam through a shingle, but how can i do that for this job?

 

[oldognewtrick]

Should you be adding nailers to make an air gap between the old roof and the metal roofing?

NO, you do not want metal installed over an air gap. Condensation will occur in the air space. I'm anxious to see how this turns out....

 

[bud16415]

I haven't done one but around here about 1/3 of the roof jobs in the country are going with this ag metal roofing. A good deal of that is done by the Amish. They all space the metal up with 2X4 laid flat going across the roof on 2' centers. Watching them it's almost like they do it for climbing and standing but they say air flow. They mostly go over shingles. Some of the others skip the strips and go straight to the roof. I'm told steel over shingles is not good unless you leave the space as it wears and rusts fast on shingles Some remove shingles do tar paper and then tin. And mostly when they have bad wood to fix in the process. Like I said I have no clue having never done one just what I'm seeing. I have been looking into it as I have a garage slight with slight pitch that has rolled roofing that's shot.

As to screw placement around here they used to put on the peaks now they go on flats.

I'm sticking with shingles. Pass the popcorn


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[oldognewtrick]

I see a lot of things done a lot of ways, if you follow the MFGs installation spec's and things go wrong, you have someone to fall back on.

 

[bud16415]

That could be the reason it's always the Amish. Never thought of that. Pretty sure they don't read specs.

Is there even specs on using ag pole barn roofing on heated homes.

My biggest problem with them is how they handle flashing mostly and then the venting at the top. The way they go around a chimney compared to step flashing looks like leaks waiting to happen. The simpler the roof line the better they look to me.

Is there a spec on doing this per manufacture?

Around here the fire departments don't like them at all. They won't go on one and say they can't get water in to a fire.


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[nealtw]

Rent a roof ladder, lays on the roof and hooks over the peak.

 

[JonW]

I have done many metal roofs and living in Ca it is hot...I try to do them in early morning at sunrise and later in evening till dark to keep from the heat on the roof. However sometimes it is in possible and then I try to schedule as many as possible so the job gets done fast...

The smell could be from many different things....dead animal caught in rafter and could not get out....depends on the wood some will stink terrible when rotted...and if the wood is really old could of had a coating of chemical back in the early days to help preserve the wood...hard to tell unless you are there and see what is going on...