How to get these three outlets working?

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RECEP=RECEPTICLE, IE. a device you plug something into.

So, there are 2 ROMEX each with a black, white and copper CONDUCTORS.One is connected to a switch, and is presumedly a SWITCH LEG and operates the light fixture, and the other is connected to the RECEP., and is presumedly the HOT PAIR, which is not energized.

Were you able to connect the aforementioned "black" conductor to a breaker and find out what was energized?

There is only 1 sheathing connected to the outlet. 2 to the switch.

The switch and outlet are not connected. I've looked at every switch and outlet on that half of the house and can't find what powers the outlet.

I tried connecting the loose wire in the panel and that wasn't it.
 
There is only 1 sheathing connected to the outlet. 2 to the switch.

The switch and outlet are not connected. I've looked at every switch and outlet on that half of the house and can't find what powers the outlet.

I tried connecting the loose wire in the panel and that wasn't it.

Of the 2 romex that are involved with the switch, is 1 of them the hot pair?
 
Yes, and the other goes to the fixture. It's working fine.

Here are your 2 options; you can purchase a FLUKE circuit tracer for about $70 and trace the conductors presently connected to the recp. that doesn't work to where the circuit is interrupted. OR, purchase a GFCI recep., because it's in a bathroom, a black, white and grnd. pigtails, 3 yellow and 2 red wirenuts to connect the GFCI too the hot pair, and to also safe off the non working conductors presently disconnected from the non-working recep.
 
Here are your 2 options; you can purchase a FLUKE circuit tracer for about $70 and trace the conductors presently connected to the recp. that doesn't work to where the circuit is interrupted. OR, purchase a GFCI recep., because it's in a bathroom, a black, white and grnd. pigtails, 3 yellow and 2 red wirenuts to connect the GFCI too the hot pair, and to also safe off the non working conductors presently disconnected from the non-working recep.

I understood the first part. Would need to see a picture for the second.
 
I understood the first part. Would need to see a picture for the second.

Understand that this is a temporary fix as the use of the GFCI may well cause an overload, circuit failure and loss of lighting.

I don't do pictures, so I'll describe it for you;With the breaker off, Disconnect the black conductor of the hot pair from the switch and straighten it, strip and connect 2 black pigtails too the black conductor of the hot pair by twisting them together with a plier and capping with a red wirenut, connect the other striped end of 1 of the black pigtails to the switch, connect the striped end of the other black pigtail to the hot/black of the GFCI.

Remove the wirenut from the white conductors, connect the striped end of the white pigtail to the other white conductors, also twisting together with a plier and cap with a red wirenut, connect the other end of the striped white conductor at the white/neutral connection of the GFCI.

Connect the grnd. pigtail to the grnds. connected to the switch and then to the grnd screw on the GFCI.

Turn the breaker back on, press the TEST/RESET on the GFCI
 
After doing some research, I have pretty much determined that if I replace the GFCI, it should fix 2, if not 3, of the outlets.

I am going to replace the mobile home stab-in outlets with regular outlets. What kind of plastic box do I need to make this safe?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-N...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLHLrYK7x9YCFcZQhgodlQ4OEQ

Is this right? Or do I need something like this...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-1...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CP2Cx6e7x9YCFc0ahgodpokOwQ

Any box that will contain a receptacle, switch, or splice of the 120/240 volt wiring must completely enclose the connections on the back and all four sides. The front of the box needs to be within 1/8 inch of the exposed surface of a non combustible wall finish such as plaster board (Sheet Rock tm). If the wall surface is combustible then the front edge of the box must be actually flush with the combustible surface or protrude out beyond that surface. There must be no pathway between the connections and any combustible part of the structure for a spark from a failed connection to ignite the combustible material. The entire purpose of electrical boxes is to enclose connections so that sparks cannot ignite combustible materials.

Every wire that passes through a box without a splice, every wire that enters the box and terminates in the box, and every device mounted in that box "Owns" some space inside the box that cannot be shared with the other wires or devices. The amount of space is matched to the size of the wire and to twice the space for the largest wire that terminates on any one device or devices that are all on the same mounting strap or yoke. If the wires in those boxes are size 14 American Wire Gauge (AWG) then you must have 2.0 cubic inches for each wire and 4.0 cubic inches for each mounting strap or yoke that one of those 14 AWG wires terminates on. Using the box in the second link above as an example it has 18 cubic inches of interior space. All of the Equipment Grounding Conductors (EGCs) count as One single wire, 18-2=16. Three cables with a total of six insulated current carrying conductors require 12 cubic inches 16-12=4. The device mounted in that box that has nothing larger than 14 AWG wires terminated to it requires 4 cubic inches of space 4-4=0. So that box could hold Six wires, Three EGCs counting as a single wire, and one strap or yoke on which #14 AWG conductors terminate.

The problem will be that the walls in most manufactured homes are only ~2&5/8 inches thick including the sheathing on both sides. That makes the only type of box that is practical to install a 4 inches square by 1&1/2 inches deep with a 5/8 inch deep inch plaster ring on it's front to provide the correct size opening for one or two devices. Then you have to plaster over the plaster ring to hide all that work. Since you are working in already built wall you will need to cut out enough plasterboard to install standard boxes. In order to actually get a large enough wiring compartment to hold two cables and a plug the box used must have 14 cubic inches of interior space. I think that your best way out is to locate the edge of a stud, cut out the opening for a 4 inch square box, add the cable clamps to the two cables, work the two cables into the box, fasten the box in place, and add the plaster ring. Then you have to plaster over the plaster ring to hide all that work.
 
1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box
attachment.php

you will need wire nuts, and some wire
I use black tape over my wire nuts even though it is not required

If that box is over 2 inches deep it will not fit in 1&5/8 inch studded wall.
 
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Any box that will contain a receptacle, switch, or splice of the 120/240 volt wiring must completely enclose the connections on the back and all four sides. The front of the box needs to be within 1/8 inch of the exposed surface of a non combustible wall finish such as plaster board (Sheet Rock tm). If the wall surface is combustible then the front edge of the box must be actually flush with the combustible surface or protrude out beyond that surface. There must be no pathway between the connections and any combustible part of the structure for a spark from a failed connection to ignite the combustible material. The entire purpose of electrical boxes is to enclose connections so that sparks cannot ignite combustible materials.

Every wire that passes through a box without a splice, every wire that enters the box and terminates in the box, and every device mounted in that box "Owns" some space inside the box that cannot be shared with the other wires or devices. The amount of space is matched to the size of the wire and to twice the space for the largest wire that terminates on any one device or devices that are all on the same mounting strap or yoke. If the wires in those boxes are size 14 American Wire Gauge (AWG) then you must have 2.0 cubic inches for each wire and 4.0 cubic inches for each mounting strap or yoke that one of those 14 AWG wires terminates on. Using the box in the second link above as an example it has 18 cubic inches of interior space. All of the Equipment Grounding Conductors (EGCs) count as One single wire, 18-2=16. Three cables with a total of six insulated current carrying conductors require 12 cubic inches 16-12=4. The device mounted in that box that has nothing larger than 14 AWG wires terminated to it requires 4 cubic inches of space 4-4=0. So that box could hold Six wires, Three EGCs counting as a single wire, and one strap or yoke on which #14 AWG conductors terminate.

The problem will be that the walls in most manufactured homes are only ~2&5/8 inches thick including the sheathing on both sides. That makes the only type of box that is practical to install a 4 inches square by 1&1/2 inches deep with a 5/8 inch deep inch plaster ring on it's front to provide the correct size opening for one or two devices. Then you have to plaster over the plaster ring to hide all that work. Since you are working in already built wall you will need to cut out enough plasterboard to install standard boxes. In order to actually get a large enough wiring compartment to hold two cables and a plug the box used must have 14 cubic inches of interior space. I think that your best way out is to locate the edge of a stud, cut out the opening for a 4 inch square box, add the cable clamps to the two cables, work the two cables into the box, fasten the box in place, and add the plaster ring. Then you have to plaster over the plaster ring to hide all that work.

These have been referred to him;

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-18-cu-in-Shallow-New-Work-Electrical-Box-SNO18-6R/202664424

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-17-cu-in-Shallow-Old-Work-Box-B117RSWR/202077341
 
That "Old Work" one will save him some plastering if they will actually turn into the stud chanhornetnel without busting out the plaster.

If what I think you are trying to say hornetd is that this "old work" box is not as "fitting" as one would think. I do agree with you as I have stated in previous posts of mine. Attempting to place it in the wall, turn it in and secure it "flush" is quite a challenge.

And yes I know this thread is more than a month old but "hornetd" is just sharing his "field" knowledge with us which can be helpful.
 
I ended up calling an electrician and he used his "mouse" to find out that the outlet was powered by something on the opposite end of the trailer.
 
I honestly forget. This was several months ago and I've had a lot going on since then.

farmerjohn1324 many people like yourself use forums such as this one to help them solve problems that they are having, in this case electrical problems (electrical forum). Many people do searches on Google etc and within the results links are usually provided to corresponding results that may end up leading a person to come to our forum. The person finds they have the exact (or similar) issue as the person who started the thread and starts to read, as they come to the end of the thread they find that there was no solution "written" mainly because the original poster (OP) never took the time to come back and provide the answer or did not come back and let the members who took their time to answer the posts know that the members suggestions were helpful in solving the issue.

All the members of this forum as I know them to be are volunteers; such they (me) don't get paid for offering their/my field experience to the OPs (original posters).

Just a little bit of common forum etiquette is usually that when you start a thread and you get responses that you take the time to answer the responses to the best of your ability so we can help more efficiently. If you solve the problem it is usually customary to return the the thread and post the solution so people in the future can use that information to help them if needed.

I've had a lot going on since then
Example: I have a lot going on each day but I do make it a point to try and spend a few minutes to answer your questions to the best of my ability sharing with you my field experience and knowledge. "hornetd" has "decades" of electrical field knowledge under his belt which is far more than some of our other members (including myself) who tend to answer your questions/concerns on a regular basis. I think if we (along with hornetd) take our time to read your posts and attempt to help you solve your issues that you take your time and return and let us know what the solution was. From what I read in your posts many of the questions you are asking (threads that you create) are to assist you in your "job" not assist you in your personal home repairs. We are making your job easier in many cases; which I don't really mind too much but would appreciate a "thank you" or "problem solved: this is what I found" once in a while. That could take all over one minute to do in comparison to one of your threads with over 30 replies from the member totaling far more of their person time to help you.

Just some "friendly" advise here.
 
farmerjohn1324 many people like yourself use forums such as this one to help them solve problems that they are having, in this case electrical problems (electrical forum). Many people do searches on Google etc and within the results links are usually provided to corresponding results that may end up leading a person to come to our forum. The person finds they have the exact (or similar) issue as the person who started the thread and starts to read, as they come to the end of the thread they find that there was no solution "written" mainly because the original poster (OP) never took the time to come back and provide the answer or did not come back and let the members who took their time to answer the posts know that the members suggestions were helpful in solving the issue.

All the members of this forum as I know them to be are volunteers; such they (me) don't get paid for offering their/my field experience to the OPs (original posters).

Just a little bit of common forum etiquette is usually that when you start a thread and you get responses that you take the time to answer the responses to the best of your ability so we can help more efficiently. If you solve the problem it is usually customary to return the the thread and post the solution so people in the future can use that information to help them if needed.

Example: I have a lot going on each day but I do make it a point to try and spend a few minutes to answer your questions to the best of my ability sharing with you my field experience and knowledge. "hornetd" has "decades" of electrical field knowledge under his belt which is far more than some of our other members (including myself) who tend to answer your questions/concerns on a regular basis. I think if we (along with hornetd) take our time to read your posts and attempt to help you solve your issues that you take your time and return and let us know what the solution was. From what I read in your posts many of the questions you are asking (threads that you create) are to assist you in your "job" not assist you in your personal home repairs. We are making your job easier in many cases; which I don't really mind too much but would appreciate a "thank you" or "problem solved: this is what I found" once in a while. That could take all over one minute to do in comparison to one of your threads with over 30 replies from the member totaling far more of their person time to help you.

Just some "friendly" advise here.

Okay. Thanks for helping.

I tried to remember what the electrician told me, but couldn't recall.

Might have been related to the GFCI in the other bathroom.
 

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