Used wrong caulk in bathroom...?

[zepper]

Hope this is the right section for this... If not, feel free to move it.

I made a real amateur mistake, caulk-wise. I'm replacing all the baseboards and door trim in our house. I started with a silicone-based caulk. Then a friend pointed out this stuff:

"Why mess with silicone when you don't have to?" he suggested.

Well, you guessed it: I used it in the bathroom. A couple of days later I was painting part of it and noticed that it crumbled easily when wet. So this'll be a problem in a moist location, right? I should've used special kitchen/bath caulk, right? Hindsight, what a thing.

My question is, do I need to rip everything out, scrape off all the caulk and start over? Or can I add a clear coat of something to seal what's there?

Thanks—and feel free to chuckle and/or roll your eyes before making suggestions.

 

[oldognewtrick]

Are you using it on baseboards still or caulking around a tub or shower where there's a wet environment?

 

[Gary]

Hope this is the right section for this... If not, feel free to move it.

I made a real amateur mistake, caulk-wise. I'm replacing all the baseboards and door trim in our house. I started with a silicone-based caulk. Then a friend pointed out this stuff:

"Why mess with silicone when you don't have to?" he suggested.

Well, you guessed it: I used it in the bathroom. A couple of days later I was painting part of it and noticed that it crumbled easily when wet. So this'll be a problem in a moist location, right? I should've used special kitchen/bath caulk, right? Hindsight, what a thing.

My question is, do I need to rip everything out, scrape off all the caulk and start over? Or can I add a clear coat of something to seal what's there?

Thanks—and feel free to chuckle and/or roll your eyes before making suggestions.

If it were mine, I would remove it and re-caulk, but that's just me. You may spend as much or more time trying to save it than just starting over with a product that will hold up. The only expense is just a little "elbow grease" and a few tubes of silicone.

 

[Snoonyb]

Silicone works best 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

Polyseamseal works with your dampened finger and is paintable, and elastomeric for 20yrs.

 

[chrisn]

]Silicone works best 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.[/COLOR]

Polyseamseal works with your dampened finger and is paintable, and elastomeric for 20yrs.

LOL, you must be or have been a painter

 

[Snoonyb]

I was the "talented laborer" for MR KITCHENS on Redondo in L.B. in 1973.

 

[zepper]

Are you using it on baseboards still or caulking around a tub or shower where there's a wet environment?

No, I'm not quite that dense... Just on the baseboards, away from actual splashes.

If it were mine, I would remove it and re-caulk, but that's just me. You may spend as much or more time trying to save it than just starting over with a product that will hold up. The only expense is just a little "elbow grease" and a few tubes of silicone.

"Little elbow grease":

1. Cut caulk.
2. Pry off boards.
3. Scrape caulk off of boards and walls.
4. Pull nails out of boards and/or walls.
5. Repair and/or repaint any wall scrapes.
6. Nail boards back in.
7. Set nails where nail gun didn't fire right.
8. Fill, sand, paint nail holes (both past and present).
9. Re-caulk.
(During 1–9 Endure wife's tittering over redundant labor

I'm just wondering if all that's necessary. I mean, if the right stuff does that good a job keeping moisture away from the boards, won't it keep it away from whatever it's applied over? Thus my topic, see, wondering about that thang.

Silicone works best 20' deep in a landfill, unopened...

It does a decent job in women's chests, too, but that may be beyond the scope of this thread.

Polyseamseal works with your dampened finger and is paintable, and elastomeric for 20yrs.

Great, glad to know about it... And any idea how it may do over painter's caulk? (Sorry if I seem redundant here. Sorry if I seem redundant here.)

 

[zepper]

Well, fellows, I took another look in there, and I got a nice flush bead all around, so I'm just going to pick up some of Snoonyb's Polyseamseal and run some of that around the room too.

Snoon, I take it you were referring to this flavor:

LOCTITE® POLYSEAMSEAL® TUB & TILE ADHESIVE CAULK – SCRUB & MILDEW RESISTANT SEALANT

The product description:

Excellent adhesion to ceramic, porcelain, glass, fiberglass composites, enamel, aluminum, stainless steel, wood, many plastics and wallboard.

...has inspired my confidence. If the experiment works, I'll post a happy conclusion here in, oh, let's say, a few years. If it's a disaster, you'll hear from me sooner.

Thanks for all your input! Yours in wifely titter avoidance, Z.

 

[Snoonyb]

No, I'm not quite that dense... Just on the baseboards, away from actual splashes.



"Little elbow grease":

1. Cut caulk.
2. Pry off boards.
3. Scrape caulk off of boards and walls.
4. Pull nails out of boards and/or walls.
5. Repair and/or repaint any wall scrapes.
6. Nail boards back in.
7. Set nails where nail gun didn't fire right.
8. Fill, sand, paint nail holes (both past and present).
9. Re-caulk.
(During 1–9 Endure wife's tittering over redundant labor

I'm just wondering if all that's necessary. I mean, if the right stuff does that good a job keeping moisture away from the boards, won't it keep it away from whatever it's applied over? Thus my topic, see, wondering about that thang.

Each will have their own level of quality that they can comfortably stand behind.

It does a decent job in women's chests, too, but that may be beyond the scope of this thread.

Another moment of historical trivia; I was associated with a few of those "pairs", from the Lakewood Club, which was one of Sonny & Cher's stops in the late 60's, on their way to fame.

Great, glad to know about it... And any idea how it may do over painter's caulk? (Sorry if I seem redundant here. Sorry if I seem redundant here.)

It works, but the tooling will add to the build up.

 

[Snoonyb]

Well, fellows, I took another look in there, and I got a nice flush bead all around, so I'm just going to pick up some of Snoonyb's Polyseamseal and run some of that around the room too.

Snoon, I take it you were referring to this flavor:

LOCTITE® POLYSEAMSEAL® TUB & TILE ADHESIVE CAULK – SCRUB & MILDEW RESISTANT SEALANT

Locktite is the CO. Polyseamseal, in the 60's, 70's & 80's, was a stand-alone product and a color matching squeeze tube was included with every KOHLER sink, back in the days when self-rimming sinks were in vogue.

The product description:...has inspired my confidence. If the experiment works, I'll post a happy conclusion here in, oh, let's say, a few years. If it's a disaster, you'll hear from me sooner.

Thanks for all your input! Yours in wifely titter avoidance, Z.

 

[zepper]

Each will have their own level of quality that they can comfortably stand behind.

Hey, thanks! The next time my wife says, "Why is this taking you so long??", I'll adopt a proud posture and say that. (Then, once she finishes laughing...)

Another moment of historical trivia; I was associated with a few of those "pairs", from the Lakewood Club, which was one of Sonny & Cher's stops in the late 60's, on their way to fame. It works, but the tooling will add to the build up.

Sorry, you've lost me, but it sounds like a great story, so I hope you'll elaborate.

Locktite is the CO. Polyseamseal, in the 60's, 70's & 80's, was a stand-alone product and a color matching squeeze tube was included with every KOHLER sink, back in the days when self-rimming sinks were in vogue.

They used to include tubes of BBQ sauce in the middle of cans (that's right, cans) of hot dogs, but I don't expect anyone here to remember back that far.

 

[zepper]

Okay, this confirms it—I just downloaded the manufacturer's more detailed product brochure, which says:

Excellent adhesion to ceramic, porcelain, glass, fiberglass composites, enamel, aluminum, stainless steel, wood, many plastics and wallboard. It also works great as an over-coat if you've been dumb-*** enough to use non-water-resistant caulk in a damp location.

(It doesn't actually say "dumb-***"; the forum did that. Real handypeople don't shy away from the occasional mild oath, which is considered character-building—unless you're, say, Amish.)

 

[Snoonyb]

Sorry, you've lost me, but it sounds like a great story, so I hope you'll elaborate

The Los Angeles Basin, in the 60's thru 80's, was rife with topless establishments and some of them had stages conducive to a variety of entertainment.

Before their eventual popularity, Sonny and Cher, needed a source of income, and
there was an abundance, as an average, the usual "dancers" would take home $250 to $400 for an 8hr. shift, and they played a variety of venues, along with a number of fledgling bands of the era.