I am reading all your comments and followingall the informative leads. It has been incredibky useful and I thank you so much. I am unable to reply individually, as my time is so compressed. Please accept my sincere Thank yous. I am off to watch the tiling videos and I am wishing I could have place under tile heating...
Powder room upgrade plan, DIY with pics
- Thread starter danie
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I'm not sure that worked https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuoJzZ7AFw58ghKKFoEszn4YbOes
zannej
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Hmm.. I tried to view the onedrive thing and it said "Something went wrong".
If you have the image on your computer you can click Manage Attachments and it will let you upload it or if you have it online with the .jpg, .gif, or .png suffix, you should be able to click the option to post from link as an attachment.
Final layout, ready to install, had to exchange tile that were from different batches and uneven on size and thickness. Now I am ready to install and found out last minute (after my mortar was mixed) that the tile cutter I bought is too short to cut diagonals on my 12x12 tiles. Thin setis covered in plastic tightly, I will to go HD tomorrow to get a proper sized cutter....oh the adventires haha!
nealtw
Contractor retired
move it a little so the intersection of the for tile is dead center of the toilet flange. Makes for easier cutting of the flange cuts.
nealtw
Contractor retired
There is no wrong. dealers choice. But laminate needs room to expand and contract. I prefer the T joint with the vinyl cover.
ok also another question. I have precut and laid out my little room. everything fits perfectly, but....when I remove and reistall I am afraid it will not fit the same again at the very entrance edge... should I tile the exit first to make sure it is straight and then tile inwards ? darn I am anxious haahaha
nealtw
Contractor retired
I would take out tile on the one side of the bathroom Then mark the zig zag line right down the middle of the room. Then you can start at that line near the toilet work your way into the corners then out and have a reference all the way.
I decided to cut tiles to insert a door sill, since the door frame is not yet installed I was worried that I'd be stuck with the frame resting on some tiles if I did not cute them enough or the opposite if I cut too much. I have not yet bough the door and my framing here is in 2x3 i figured I'd do doors at the end of flooring, now if I don't lay tiles here I might go batty,
I am tempted to buy the door now, but they don't come custom at HD in that narrow version and pre-hung... oh the possibilities lol
zannej
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The tiles look good! I think having them at an angle like that makes the floor look more interesting and great job on the cuts-- that edge near the doorway is very smooth.
How narrow is the doorway? Are you looking for hollow core or solid core doors and do you have any particular color or style in mind?
As you're facing the bathroom from the outside, what side will the hinges be on? And will it swing in to the bathroom or out away from the bathroom?
The door way is 26 1/4 on rough and 3 5/8 thick with gyprock on both sides.
t was thinking to use a shaker 5 panel, painted white or natural wood stained a light neutral brown. I am still not sure bout my future baseboards but likely 7 inches / pine flats and door frame to create a thicker look. I am going overall for a modern shaker with urban post industrial accents.
Thank you for liking my work. I am thinking now to use a metal trim J to see a neat line ontile edges at door frame ?
t was thinking to use a shaker 5 panel, painted white or natural wood stained a light neutral brown. I am still not sure bout my future baseboards but likely 7 inches / pine flats and door frame to create a thicker look. I am going overall for a modern shaker with urban post industrial accents.
Thank you for liking my work. I am thinking now to use a metal trim J to see a neat line ontile edges at door frame ?
oh and btw I also like craftman and 4 panels. there are so many choices lol
also i will be installing laminate in the kitchen and under the new cabinets. I found some instructions to allow for expansion of floor but I do not quite understand what is meant. Here it i:
cabinet install over laminate flooring
Ive done several kitchens where I installed the cabs. after the floor. Some of these even had islandswith plumbing. What I do I do is locate my toe kicks, so I can use my hole saw to cut a 1" diameter hole. Save the piece and then cut another hole 1 1/2" dia. Next, I use cardboard or some other thin shim to raise the height ever so slightly, and screw down 1" dia. piece. Now, you can screw your toe kicks to the floor and there is the required 1/4" gap for expansion. Cabinets need that shimming so theres no gap but floor can move. Has worked great.
Good luck
Einar
also i will be installing laminate in the kitchen and under the new cabinets. I found some instructions to allow for expansion of floor but I do not quite understand what is meant. Here it i:
cabinet install over laminate flooring
Ive done several kitchens where I installed the cabs. after the floor. Some of these even had islandswith plumbing. What I do I do is locate my toe kicks, so I can use my hole saw to cut a 1" diameter hole. Save the piece and then cut another hole 1 1/2" dia. Next, I use cardboard or some other thin shim to raise the height ever so slightly, and screw down 1" dia. piece. Now, you can screw your toe kicks to the floor and there is the required 1/4" gap for expansion. Cabinets need that shimming so theres no gap but floor can move. Has worked great.
Good luck
Einar
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zannej
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Hmm.. I think the closest size to the 26.5" is a 24" door. It's small, but manageable. I have a couple of those in my house. If you use a metal channel, make sure it is water/rust resistant.
Looking at the layout again, I realize there would not be a way for the door to swing in to the bathroom bc it would hit the toilet. So, it will have to swing out. When facing the door from the outside of the bathroom, will you have the knob on the right or the left?
If it's on the left if will be a left-hand swing. If the other way it will be right-hand. I'm sort of guessing that it will be on the left because the first thing you would see is the sink instead of the toilet and for some reason, it's not "cool" for the toilet to be the first thing visible when entering a bathroom.
I'm not sure what shaker style is. Something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder...gle-Prehung-Interior-Door-HDCP6620R/202523938
(Assuming your door height is 80"-- should measure that to be certain).
Or this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-10584/202505856
Or solid core version: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-49157/202872641
I'm no flooring expert, but I wouldn't advise using laminate in a kitchen. It doesn't handle moisture/spills very well. There are probably some that are better than others at resisting water, but for some of them, one little spill and the floor bubbles up. Hot water splashing out of the sink, spilled pot of water/sauce, or leak from under the sink could spell disaster. A friend of mine has laminate throughout her house. Her kid (I think she's 3 or 4) was trying to bring a bowl of soup to her bc she knew she wasn't feeling well. Lost her balance, fell, and spilled it all over the floor. My friend cleaned it up as quickly as she could, but the damage was already done.
Vinyl plank is more expensive, but if you get the kind with plastic/waterproof core and stay away from cork underlayment, it can be pretty good. I see it used in restaurants and department stores now. You can get the click-lock kind that is easier to install. But, it's ultimately up to you.
Looking at the layout again, I realize there would not be a way for the door to swing in to the bathroom bc it would hit the toilet. So, it will have to swing out. When facing the door from the outside of the bathroom, will you have the knob on the right or the left?
If it's on the left if will be a left-hand swing. If the other way it will be right-hand. I'm sort of guessing that it will be on the left because the first thing you would see is the sink instead of the toilet and for some reason, it's not "cool" for the toilet to be the first thing visible when entering a bathroom.
I'm not sure what shaker style is. Something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Builder...gle-Prehung-Interior-Door-HDCP6620R/202523938
(Assuming your door height is 80"-- should measure that to be certain).
Or this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-10584/202505856
Or solid core version: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonit...-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-49157/202872641
I'm no flooring expert, but I wouldn't advise using laminate in a kitchen. It doesn't handle moisture/spills very well. There are probably some that are better than others at resisting water, but for some of them, one little spill and the floor bubbles up. Hot water splashing out of the sink, spilled pot of water/sauce, or leak from under the sink could spell disaster. A friend of mine has laminate throughout her house. Her kid (I think she's 3 or 4) was trying to bring a bowl of soup to her bc she knew she wasn't feeling well. Lost her balance, fell, and spilled it all over the floor. My friend cleaned it up as quickly as she could, but the damage was already done.
Vinyl plank is more expensive, but if you get the kind with plastic/waterproof core and stay away from cork underlayment, it can be pretty good. I see it used in restaurants and department stores now. You can get the click-lock kind that is easier to install. But, it's ultimately up to you.
Would the 26.25 rough would work with a 3/4 inch frame.. Yes the hinges will be on the right and door opening out.
For the kitchen I wanted a continuous floor all over since it's open space. I am rethinking ... Or I could i keep some flooring to repair in case of trouble?
Matching exact height of laminate will be difficult. With other materials and might look less... Slick?
For the kitchen I wanted a continuous floor all over since it's open space. I am rethinking ... Or I could i keep some flooring to repair in case of trouble?
Matching exact height of laminate will be difficult. With other materials and might look less... Slick?
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