Filling bolt holes in concrete

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

breckrider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
67
Reaction score
8
I need to move a post on a metal fince that is attached to a concrete pool deck
with redhat sheathed bolts. 4 of them. I've pulled the bolts out so there are now
4 holes in the concrete 3/8in in diameter. I'm drilling new bolts holes 3/4in from
the existing holes.

What should I use to fill the old bolt holes that will withstand being drilled so
closely to?
 
Not sure if it would apply here but I watched a friend set bolts in concrete for a tire changer by melting sulfur and pouring it around the bolts. I suspect that it might work as a hole filler as well.
 
Quickcrete makes a masonary caulk in a tube thats gray and looks like mortar. I've used it a lot on small cracks and voids over the years and had great success with it. You can find it at the big box stores or most hardware stores.
 
What should I use to fill the old bolt holes that will withstand being drilled so
closely to?

I don't think that is going to work.

Best would be to find a way to re-use the old holes.

Is this just a slab, maybe a few inches thick, or a deeper pier ? Got a photo ?
Are you replacing the post, or just that old mounting has loosened up ?
 
It's a swimming pool deck. About 4 inches thick with an exposed pea gravel top.
I can't reuse the holes because I need the gate opening to be wider. I don't currently
have a picture. I'm looking at this product or hydraulic cement.
 

Attachments

  • 1644844284624.png
    1644844284624.png
    141.1 KB · Views: 13
Sika makes great masonary products. That should work ok. Just read the directions on the package before you use it.
 
I wouldn't use anything as a filler that doesn't approach the compressive strength of concrete. A sand cement mix tamped into place (using a hammer and a dowel) might work if the mix is dry enough not to shrink as it cures.
 
In CA we're required, when doing additions, to dowel into the existing foundation and set the new rebar for the addition. I use the SIKA caulk, fill the hole, insert the rebar and It's dry and firm in a matter of seconds, any purged from the insertion runs down the foundation about 2" and is dry shortly there after.

I've used the cement-all on quick repairs on high traffic exit walks, porches and steps.
 
IMO new holes that close to the old holes is a structural problem and requires full strength of the surrounding area. I would core drill a hole to encompass all 4 holes and then mix up some concrete and refill the hole. You could incorporate pins/rebar to tie into the surrounding structure. A handful of pea rock to press into the surface of the wet concrete to match the existing surface. Your big box store should have a core drill for rent.
 
In CA we're required, when doing additions, to dowel into the existing foundation and set the new rebar for the addition. I use the SIKA caulk, fill the hole, insert the rebar and It's dry and firm in a matter of seconds, any purged from the insertion runs down the foundation about 2" and is dry shortly there after.

I've used the cement-all on quick repairs on high traffic exit walks, porches and steps.
THis Sika high strength formula starting setting up almost before I could get it out of the tube. Bent my caulk gun.
 
I like the idea of hydraulic cement.
It sets up hard and expands tightly into hole.
You would have to coax it in there, with a few small hand tools.
I have also used anchoring epoxy.
Not cheap just for four little holes, but it sets really hard.
 
Back
Top