Bad honeywell valve?

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

skid2964

New Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
I have a Tempstar heating/AC unit in my home ... (with Honeywell valve model SV9500m-2682).

When I turn on the heat, the only thing that runs is the induction fan(or whatever it is called), it just stays running all the time, nothing else ever happens. BUT, the unit for no apparent reason WILL run properly every once in a while.

I checked the induction fan vaccuum diaphram and switch and determined both items are working. When the fan comes on, the switch closes.

Do I have a bad honeywell valve or is a bad igniter a more likely culprit?

What is the procedure to troubleshoot? is there a way to manually check the igniter?

opinions?
 
Welcome Skid:
If the igniter is visible during the cycle it should be glowing red. If it is not visivle, a continuity test with your ohm meter should tell. They are notorious for getting a crack in them and not working, but then it would not ever work. Also, you could check for a crack or hole in the heat exchanger.
Glenn
 
When the fan is running, such as it does before firing up, gently give the wires a wiggle/bump, going into the control valve. The Heil furnaces (not sure all the models, but same basic units) had this issue a few years ago, and it was the main tiny circuit board in the control valve, where the wires connected inside.I changed my vacuum switch etc, and found a position if the wires were tied up at the perfect angle, the furnace would fire everytime, yet not a reliable fix if planning to go away for a period of time. There was a recall for these valves that the manufacturer sent a memo to EVERY dealer to change them out, and were reimbursed an hours labour as well, yet many would try and get the service call and charge for the valve at retail cost, even though it cost them nothing. I got into a pissing match with the local clown here, since he got one service call and fixed nothing. I contacted the manufacturer and got the scoop from them.They ended up sending me the new valve directly and a freind/gas fitter installed it and worked fine since.
 
Wow! I ran across this forum while searching for a replacement circuit board for the Honeywell SV9500M Gas Control Valve. A new Gas control valve is about $200. Mr. Wienerwater is dead on w/ his diagnosis. I have been tying up my harness up over and over. It has got to the point now that adjusting the wire harness will not work for long.

Mr. Wienerwater - do you have any additional information about the recall? Recall #, phone number etc.?

This looks like a great forum!
 
Sent you a PM, Blueforester.I ended up calling a dealer about 400 miles away, since he knows it won't hurt his business locally sharing info so far away and got the contact numbers. I know the valve came from Tennessee I think it was, not 100% if it was Heil/Tempstar, or Honeywell, but will try searching who is where should give me an idea.

UPDATE!!

Try this link, it's for ICP (makers of Tempstar, Heil etc) out of Tennesee
http://www.icpusa.com/ or call 800-649-4706 Bottom left of the page has a Product Safety Recall button, which will open a page with contact numbers as well. Hope this helps anyone.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have alerady tried the link you posted. The HVAC unit installed is a Heil. The heat exchanger was made by Intercity Products, which has since changed names. I have tried to talk to Honeywell but the refer me to the furnace manufactor. ICPUSA recall will not give me any info and refers me to there distributors. The distributor and some of there contractors I have called are aware of the problems with this gas valve but have never heard of the recall for this gas valve. It looks like I'm going to have to purchase one myself and have it installed.
 
That is EXACTLY what is happening to mine. When it stops working I wiggle the wires till I see the igniter start to glow.

I guess I will see if Honeywell will send me a one.

When the fan is running, such as it does before firing up, gently give the wires a wiggle/bump, going into the control valve. The Heil furnaces (not sure all the models, but same basic units) had this issue a few years ago, and it was the main tiny circuit board in the control valve, where the wires connected inside.I changed my vacuum switch etc, and found a position if the wires were tied up at the perfect angle, the furnace would fire everytime, yet not a reliable fix if planning to go away for a period of time. There was a recall for these valves that the manufacturer sent a memo to EVERY dealer to change them out, and were reimbursed an hours labour as well, yet many would try and get the service call and charge for the valve at retail cost, even though it cost them nothing. I got into a pissing match with the local clown here, since he got one service call and fixed nothing. I contacted the manufacturer and got the scoop from them.They ended up sending me the new valve directly and a freind/gas fitter installed it and worked fine since.
 
Have the same issue. Does anyone have further information on this? I checked the link above and the CPSC web site (search for Honeywell, Heil, and model number) but nothing comes up.

I would be surprised if it was a "recall" as it doesn't seem safety related but more comfort/annoyance issue.

So far, I have a call into the distributor and it is checking on the status of anything with the valve number, but have not heard back as of yet.
 
I have the same unit/problem. A friend who is a HVAC Sales/Installer person showed me that if I gently "push" the connector into the valve (on a horizontal plane; not down into the unit), the ignitor would light and the glow would occur and then the furnace would heat. I have a continuous fan blowing right now, just no heated air.

Problem is that this has occured for about 6-8 months and the temporary remedy doesn't work at all anymore. I am very green to all of this so can anyone tell me what to expect the replacement costs of this Honeywell smart valve to be so I do not get taken advantage of? Thanks!
 
I had the same problem as you guys starting about 18months ago. The same remedy of jiggling the wires worked for along time. Finally it quit working. One year ago I took the plastic housing off to find that the solder joints holding the socket marked control had come loose. I took it to the maint. man I work with and he re-soldered it for me. About a month ago I started having the same issue again, intermitantly. Well today it's dead and I am gonna take it back to the maint. guy I work with. If that doesn't work then I will have to replace it. I have seen a couple different forums and this seems to be a very common occurence with this unit.
 
this can be one that will leave a pro scratching his head connected to the inducer fan moter and sometime a second hose to the heat exchanger will be some rubber hoses hooked to barb fitting disconnect from the motor and heat exchanger depending which one the other end will be connected to a 2 inch round pressure switch blow into or suck on the hose going to the switch if you hear a quite click its ok just make sure nothing is lodged in the barbs by sticking a staightened out paper clip in that should be it
 
I'm Having the Same problem except the red light indicates the pressure valve is stuck open. Any ideas
 
Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done. :) time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.
 
Last edited:
Well I say I had the same issue you all have had, I pulled it apart, dropped solder on all 4 spots and up and rolling, I wonder if ruftags, your Maint guy only dropped solder on the 1 spot not all 4 as I saw for sure one that looked broken, but figured I might as well solder all 4 since I have it out ! I have picts if anyone ever has a need to see what can be done, as we got a quote for $420 to repair this thing, and it cost $85 to tell us the gas valve unit was the issue, and I watched the repair guy mess with this connector so I soon figured out that this was the issue, then did search and found you all, as I thought it might be the ignitor from the get go, so the $85 was worth getting the trouble shooting part done. :) time took about 30min to do including heating up a hot pocket to eat as I was starving..haha.. replacing the entire valve I hear is a pain to un wrench it from the pipes etc so I think this was better, also a note honeywell issued a new part sv9501M-2682 so it seams to me they knew sv9500m-2682 was an issue, so don't buy the 9500 or you will be back to the same game. either fix the 9500 or buy the new 9501 part ! In the picts you can see they are updated on the 9501 for sure.

I have a 9502H-1792 smart valve which does the same thing,,,,
The 4 pin contact will only work for a time. I watched the smart valve vibrate as the fan and induction blower comes on. The valve is sort of hanging out there vibrating so I positioned as small piece of conduit down thru the burner tray up to the valve making it more rigid. I think the vibration was adding to the 4 pin losing contact after a while...So far so good...another solution might be to go ridid pipe all the way instead of the flex...anyway just my observation on part of the solution.
I'd like to see the pics bruz1111 can you post or want to e-mail them to me?
[email protected]

furnace1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I am having a problem with an Armstrong furnace with a Honeywell smart gas valve Sv9501M-2682 The Pilot light is working or lit but when the thermostat callsm for gas nothing happens,I've cleared the induction tube for debris looks ok,after spending $130 for aservice call,he,cleaned sensor at pilot light,the same thing happened the next day,I've found that if you turn thermostat down so it isn't calling for heat and leave off for 30min. turn themostat back up,pilot lite fires up and the burners fire up also and everything works for while,then have to repeat process.Does Honeywell have arecall on these" smart" valves.
 
After 2.5 years and 3 different professional Hvac service companies coming to my house, I now have the answer. I wish I would have stumbled over this website years ago. I would have saved time and money. The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them. I have a Quatro Furnace/ Consolidated Ind/Honeywell gas valve SV9500M8600 This year I was finally able to narrow it down to the gas valve. The thing is everytime the "Professionals" were here it worked fine according to them.

I suspected a bad harness. When I moved the 4 pin connector the furnace would light off everytime. Gradually, all kinds of movement was necessary to get the furnace to light. Today, I was moving the igniter connector and the furnace lit off. Sounds like a gas valve.

I plan to call Honeywell as soon as I post this reply. Hope to return with some kind of answer.
 
wow, incredible. Just started having this problem on my heil furnace with a honeywell valve and found this site. Right now I have a piece of plastic lodged in the side of the 4-pin connector to make the thing light. I'm going to open up the valve and re-solder the connections.
 
My Tempstar furnace is about 14 years old. We've experienced problems with the solder connections on the control unit for the Honeywell SV9500 for years now. I fastened a tie wrap around the connector and the on/off knob and that worked for a long time. Now it has stopped working. Infuriating to know that the problem is only some fractured solder joints inside the plastic housing on the PCB. My question is this. How do you get the plastic housing off? I see two screws on top of the value that appear hold the entire plastic housing on..but they have secure type screws that would require some special tool to remove them. Any help on this issue available?
 
Those are likely torx TR screws or Torx Tamper Resistant. There are special Torx bits and screwdrivers that will remove them. As to exactly how or if that will remove the plastic housing, I don't know.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top