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House Repair Talk

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  1. G

    Garage door opener replacement issues

    My 25 year old chain drive unit died. A gear inside completely sheared in half so without an unavailable 25 year old replacement part, it's a write-off. I was hoping to re-use the existing mounting brackets, and even the existing rail if possible. The existing rail is a single metal "T"...
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    Single handle faucet knob with apparently no index button to pry off?

    The diagram on this page indicates that olddognewtrick is right. https://www.bestplumbingspecialties.com/reliant-1495-shower/7084/# Heh, I see you got the same answer at Houzz https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6124587/can-anyone-tell-me-how-to-remove-this-single-handle-shower-faucet-knob...
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    Applying silicone - how I should do it better next time.

    Sorry, I wasn't clear - this was a brand new grab bar onto a brand new wall. I don't think I did a good enough job of surface prep, but removing old silicone was not part of the problem.
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    Single handle faucet knob with apparently no index button to pry off?

    I had some Delta handles that look like that. As has been said, the whole face pops off. Mine at least had a spot between two of the ridges of the handle where there was a little hole, a gap between the faceplate and the rest of the handle. So one could get a very small screwdriver in there...
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    Applying silicone - how I should do it better next time.

    Ok, on my "Where is my Leak" thread I eventually determined that the leak in my shower was the grab bar, which had cracks in the weld. However, if my silicone application had been right, it never would have been a problem. So I figured a separate thread about how to get a good seal with...
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    Where is my leak?

    Update! It's not the controls/faceplate. It's the damn grab bar (vertical with slider). The lower attachment point is the leak. You might wonder, as I did, how I could mess that up with all the silicone I used. Well, I pulled off the cover that hides the screw heads and the weld where the...
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    Toilet tank bolts (getting them watertight)

    Jeff, understood. Up until now, I had thought that with these particular 25y old Mansfield toilets there wasn't enough room for a washer and bolt between the tank and the base. But now I think they'd just fit. So going forward I will probably add those. (I won't mess with the ones that are...
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    Where is my leak?

    Well, the saga continues because it's still doing it. But I can now reproduce the problem on demand by aiming the handheld at the wall and running it. I just did that. Now I will narrow the problem down by the same process of elimination, but finer-grained to first confirm that it's...
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    Toilet tank bolts (getting them watertight)

    Update. It seems the original installer, 25 years ago, didn't use rubber washers at all! What I thought was a badly decomposing and bleached washer was in fact ... a donut of plumber's putty. Anyway, that suggested the solution to me. The trouble is irregularities in the shape of the tank...
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    Toilet tank bolts (getting them watertight)

    I've got toilets that have 3 bolts for the tank. I think this is an older design. The bolts don't have a washer or nut between the tank and the base. There is only the one nut, so the base and the tank are squeezed together by the same force holding the bolt against the rubber washer inside...
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    Where is my leak?

    If anyone is still following this, I tried to figure it out by process of elimination, taping plastic over places where there are bolts like the grab bar or the door hinges & over the controls (with a space to reach under to operate them). Anyway, it really seems like it must have been the...
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    How to fasten plywood underlayment, where it goes under the toe kick of an existing cabinet?

    Hmm. You've got me a bit worried, but maybe it's terminology. They never said the cement would fill in low spots, but they said that if there was a tiny gap between pieces of the plywood, or dimples the size of a nail/screw head, it would fill that in. I am in fact drilling and...
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    How to fasten plywood underlayment, where it goes under the toe kick of an existing cabinet?

    I am talking about underlayment - it's 3/8" plywood - and attaching that to the OSB/Chipboard subfloor. Why would I not want *some* of the nails to go through the subfloor and into the joists? I was told (by the people who will eventually lay the linoleum) that they use a kind of cement adhesive...
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    How to fasten plywood underlayment, where it goes under the toe kick of an existing cabinet?

    I'm fastening down a good quality (solid core) plywood underlayment for linoleum. I'm using nails along joists and mostly screws otherwise. I'm probably using more fasteners than strictly necessary, and it feels really solid. But I can't get fasteners closer than about 4.25 inches to the edge...
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    tiling, underlayment, subfloor, screw length

    Screws are a bad idea for plywood underlayment? Why would they make the plywood pucker (assuming one has properly countersunk)? I'm using ring nails along the joists and screws generally otherwise because the ring nails just feel weird once they're through the subfloor.
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