Recent content by Raindem

Yes. I checked the vac hoses for cracks, and made sure the vac port was clear. I verified that the pressure switch was in fact closing when the inducer kicks on.

Tried the heat gun this morning. No good. OK, I was able to get good voltage readings on the gas valve today, both when it was working and not working. The meter probes were at the blue wire at the gas valve, and the brown common wire. Here are the results... When unit is working: At rest...

It's hard to check voltage in that case because the system shuts down the instant it starts to spark. I tried checking it this morning but could not get a good voltage reading (< 1v with the meter jumping around). But at this point I don't if that is a circuit board problem or a gas valve problem.

I guess that qualifies me then. LOL. So let's assume for a second that the unit is wired correctly, let's further assume that the circuit board is sending correct voltage to the gas valve (I checked it again with the unit running the other day and it was 25v). With the no-start problem...

Dunno. The unit had worked fine for several years as currently wired. And the two HVAC techs that came out didn't seem to have an issue with it.

That is correct. There's never been anything connected there.

Do you want a closeup of the gas valve from the connection schematic or the ladder schematic? I previously checked the transformer and it's putting out 24v (more like 26-27), whether the furnace is working or not.

I don't know how to read schematics. I was hoping someone else could make sense of it.

I don't understand where I am supposed to be connecting the DVM leads to check for voltage at the gas valve. There are only 2 wires going to my gas valve, a blue and a brown. I've checked it from the connected blue wire terminal to common (0.1v), from one terminal to the other with the wires...

Another day troubleshooting. When I woke up this morning the furnace wasn't working. When I checked it a couple hours later it was, so I went up to check more voltages. The gas valve voltage is the same as when it was not working, so that's not the problem. BTW, I misread the multimeter...

Thanks for the replies. I'll try to address all the points that were brought up. On the circuit board? Or this a relay integrated with the gas valve? Is that the same as a solenoid? If that's the same as the hi-limit switch, the schematic is showing it separate from the K1 switches Just...

I was able to do some troubleshooting this morning since the heater was not working. So going back to the start... It has 120v going in on L1 and L2. It has 24v coming out of the transformer and going to the circuit board. The thermostat has 24v going to it and, when the proper connections...

I have not yet actually seen it try to light, but the repair tech did. He seemed to indicate that the sparker and gas valve were good, but something else was interrupting the ignition sequence. Also, he said the furnace is supposed to try to light 3 times before going into lockdown. But mine...

Yesterday, the furnace wasn't working in the morning but I had other committments and couldn't check it out. By the time we got back home it was working. Today, I'm up bright and early ready to go troubleshooting, and it turns on exactly when it was supposed to. This will take time.

I asked the last tech if it would be helpful to contact the manufacturer. He said something like "Yeah, I guess I could do that", but never heard back from him. I'll just keep going up there on mornings it doesn't work until the problem reveals itself, or summer arrives.