Recent content by Stimpy

I wound up putting the plate locks on all the rear doors and single cylinder lock on interior and exterior garage doors. For my previous post, you can just slap on a plate as long as the screw holes line up on each side.

From watching youtube videos on how to build these things, it looks like there's two options. Below the mailbox is a CMU core with brick veneer, then around and above the mail box is either solid brick/mortar or a styrofoam mold with a brick veneer. I guess I'll just have to find out.

Independent contractors? I guess this guy is. No idea what MW recap or circuits are.

Might try an epoxy labeled for concrete and duct tape them on there till it cures. Clean it really good first

If I were hanging a swing, I'd like to know what the product was and that it was done right. Most likely that stuff is stronger than the concrete. Drilling and epoxying rebar into concrete is equivalent to having it cast in originally for civil applications.

FDOT spec for concrete working range is 40-80. There's special considerations for 80-100, but no placement is allowed below 40. The temps you ran into should be of no concern. There's also very tight tolerances on materials, ratios, mixing times, etc. so you're probably just seeing a mix that...

Hope this thread isn't too old. I'll add that you'd definitely need to treat it with some coating or it'll stain. Concrete is very absorbent. Go to any store with a bare concrete floor and pour some water on it. Wait a bit then mop it up. You'll see it's less wet than you'd think it should be...

I have a classic, brick mailbox with a standard T1 box built in the early 90s. I'd like to get one that's closer to 1'x1'. I have two questions: 1: what's the construction inside the box? Will I only have to modify the front veneer of brick, or is there more brick on the inside? 2: What are...

I contacted 4 gas installers recommended by Teco… and only one replied. Will see what they offer. There’s an electric outlet for the over-range microwave. I’d do the roof myself but want to run it by insurance first. That seems like something they’d use to deny a claim of something ever happened.

Around 30’ horizontal distance from the range wall to outside wall plus 12’ ceilings if that matters.

I'm looking to convert to a gas range. Other stuff might come later but everything else is new. Teco (gas utility) will install a meter for free and a plumbing contractor is coming to quote at the end of next month. I have no idea what to expect. If gas lines can run thru the attic, it should be...

I’ve seen a few solutions for this, all of which involved wood and made the tv stick out several more inches. This is my solution. I bolted a piece of aluminum stock to the frame to get just a little more length. I think it’s a far more elegant solution than anything with wood.

I’m up here near Panama City. It’s an architectural shingle roof only a couple years old. Gutters all the way around too.

I just had the idea that these things come in packs of lever/lock and lever/plate. will a plate fit on a lever that came in a lever/lock set?

I got my fireplace inspected today. It's modular with a brick chimney from the roof up, and is located centrally with access (behind drywall) to the rear. It's capped closed, so needs work up top. Theres a crack in the fire brick and he said they'd put a plate behind that panel and seal it...