Repairing water damaged ceiling

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kdrymer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2014
Messages
134
Reaction score
11
Hello - In my 3 season room porch off the main house we had a small amount of water penetrate under the roof due to an ice dam that formed that has now been corrected. As a result, there is a small amount of damage to the ceiling right along the tape line/joint. As you can see in the pictures just along the drywall joint the paint/paper has bubbled. What do you suggest as the best way to fix this? I was planning to use a putty knife to scrape off the loose material and then apply joint compound, sand and re-apply as necessary. Once dry treat the surface with a primer sealer for any residual dampness, and then repaint. Do you suggest I do anything with the existing drywall tape? Should I replace it? Thanks in advance!

IMG_20150310_172058_659.jpg

IMG_20150310_172113_438.jpg

IMG_20150310_172130_913.jpg
 
This all depends on how much water damage there is. Start by using a straight edge and scoring on each side of the tape. Then remove the tape with a putty knife. If what is underneath is still OK and not all crumbly, you can apply another coat of mud and imbed new tape. Then overcoat and finish. See http://www.drywallinfo.com/retaping-drywall.html If what is underneath is completely compromised, you will have to remove drywall back to the nearest ceiling joists on each side. Attach 2x2 nailers to those nearby ceiling studs and attach new drywall - you will then have to tape and finish on the two sides. This ends up being a fairly big job so hopefully the retaping will work for you.
 
Thanks all! Any suggestions on which type of tape to use (Fiberglass mesh vs. Paper based) for this type of repair? Looks like the mesh tape is easier to work with as it's self-adhesive but I don't know how well it will hold up compared to paper.

Should I spray any type of Sealer/Primer to block any moisture still present from penetrating to the finished work?

Any recommendations on which type of joint compound to use? From what I've researched, lightweight setting type is the preferred type for this kind of water damage repair.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top