Crackling from breaker panel

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Eisenfaust8

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2016
Messages
51
Reaction score
11
220 breaker panel in the garage is currently crackling. This happened about 6-8 months ago, and I never heard it again until today (I would check every once in awhile). This morning I replaced a single pole cadet wall thermostat and when I went back to the panel it was crackling. The thermostat works, so it is wired correctly.

During the wiring my wife started up the washer and dryer and the stove in the kitchen, so the load on the house obviously went up. I shut off the dryer and stove to see if that made a difference in the crackling, and it did not. No part of the panel is hot to the touch and the crackling seems to be originating from behind the upper portion where the master switch is.

Suggestions? Should this be looked at ASAP?
 
What that sounds like is electrical arcing. The only noise you should ever hear from your panel is silence....and sometimes a hum from a breaker. If it's arcing at the main breaker or behind it, it needs to be checked asap. Arcing causes heat and heat causes fires.
 
Alright I just narrowed it down to the water heater. It stops/starts immediately when throwing that switch. I have a friend coming over tomorrow with relevant experience.
 
What kind of service panel is it?

ZINSCO have a predilection for arching breakers.

Have your friend pull and inspect the breaker as well as the buss bars for discoloration, which can be an indication of a loose fit cause by heat. If you find any, replace the breaker.
 
What kind of service panel is it?

ZINSCO have a predilection for arching breakers.

Have your friend pull and inspect the breaker as well as the buss bars for discoloration, which can be an indication of a loose fit cause by heat. If you find any, replace the breaker.

It is a QO.

As an aside, if it got to the point where it was bad enough to cause a fire would the breaker trip?
 
Thanks, they are a good quality panel.

Generally yes, basically, the breaker disintegrates.
 
It is a QO.

As an aside, if it got to the point where it was bad enough to cause a fire would the breaker trip?



No, the arcing is usually because of a bad or loose connection outside of the breaker. If the lug where the power feeds into the main was loose, arcing there could heat the panel or wire to the point of ignition. Same thing with a breaker plugged into the bus. The breaker could start to melt but won't trip because it's not a short or overload.
Thermal overload protection in a breaker is for overloads on a circuit it's protecting.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.

The breaker has been changed out and everything is quiet so far. The old one had tight connections and the wiring was intact with no discoloring/melting. So it must have been internal to the breaker.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.

The breaker has been changed out and everything is quiet so far. The old one had tight connections and the wiring was intact with no discoloring/melting. So it must have been internal to the breaker.

:thbup::thbup:
 
Was the bus connection where the breaker attaches inspected?
 
No, the arcing is usually because of a bad or loose connection outside of the breaker. If the lug where the power feeds into the main was loose, arcing there could heat the panel or wire to the point of ignition. Same thing with a breaker plugged into the bus. The breaker could start to melt but won't trip because it's not a short or overload.
Thermal overload protection in a breaker is for overloads on a circuit it's protecting.

That may be good in theory, but my practical, job site experience, and everything I post is based upon that, is what I stated.

7:15PM=half the plugs and lights don't work.

Checked the service and found 1 of the SCE fusible links looked like a totsy-pop.

Opened the service weather cover and saw 2/3rds of the main still intact and part welded to the dead front panel.

Pulled the meter, called SCE, removed the dead front panel, peeled the breaker off the buss bar and burnished it before setting the new main.

SCE set a new fusible link and reset the meter.
 
What does your little fairy tale have to do with the OP's question about his or any arcing breaker tripping from the heat generated from it? Nothing! You said yes...sorta, I said no. Heaven forbid someone says anything contrary to you.
So you come up with some story that's not even remotely relevant to the OP's issue in order to rationalize your answer. Hey...what ever blows up your skirt and makes you feel better about yourself.
And no, I don't want the address as it's irrelevant.
 
The significant and blatant difference is that you touted theory and no practical experience.

While everything I post here, is from practical experience.

Theory, as well as practical experience can be relevant, for future posters.

So, rather than you, or your minions, taking me up on the offer to provide you with the address where this, on site practical repair took place, where you, in person, could view the notch in the dead front panel, for yourself, you've "elected" to suppose that my practical, on site experience, is a fairy tale.

Interesting.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top