TRANE XE90 getting no power, no red light

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The test in post 56 can be done with a hand full of fuses and then you would now witch wire or circuit that is the problem.
 
Something is wired wrong. Jumerping W & Y should not do anything, especially not turn on the blower fan.
Also, you should not be getting voltage when checking R to W & Y.
There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the removable door panels.
 
kok328 said:
Something is wired wrong. Jumerping W & Y should not do anything, especially not turn on the blower fan.
Also, you should not be getting voltage when checking R to W & Y.
There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the removable door panels.
Click to expand...

Thanks for dropping by again , we need all the help we can find.:)
 
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So to recap
furnace blowing cold air, no blinking light,
adjust high limit switch, stopped the fan
Humming noise detected
Later got a slow blinking light

Later, same day, 4 flashes, which means OPEN HIGH LIMIT DEVICE

later same day, banged limit switch on floor and got it to work

And found gas was turned off, all was well.

Why was the fan running in the first place, limit switch out of adjustment, you have played with this before?


2 month later. blinking three lights pressure switch error , replaced intake fan.

1 1/2 month later no power, no lights , no run replaced board no run.

Now we have found power at the unit.

But now we know that the fuse had been replaced with over sized when a short was detected years earlier.

So for years it drew to many amps thru any number of component. Any wires to the thermostat could be damaged anywhere between the furnace and the thermostat. Any component or controller that uses low voltage could be damaged.

I would inspect the boards old and new for burn marks and or melted solder.

I would also bring the thermostat to the furnace and hook it up with a short cable, that will prove the thermostat wires are not the problem.

Near as I can figure that fuse is all about the thermostat and the wire going to an outside unit, there must be a short in one of them.
 
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If the thermostat wires were disconnected from the control board when he jumered it out for heat, then we have eliminated (for now) the thermostat and thermostat wires.
Was this the case when R to W was sparking?
Although I'm thinking more along the lines that the control board is wired in wrong.
Can we see pics of the back side of the cover panels and wires to control board?
 
kok328 said:
If the thermostat wires were disconnected from the control board when he jumered it out for heat, then we have eliminated (for now) the thermostat and thermostat wires.
Was this the case when R to W was sparking?
Although I'm thinking more along the lines that the control board is wired in wrong.
Can we see pics of the back side of the cover panels and wires to control board?
Click to expand...

I am way over my head here but there must be short that caused the fuse to go years ago. so what gets damaged when forced to work with a bigger fuse.
If the new board was put in without solving the short, the new board could be damaged too..

I would think checking anything low voltage for shorts would be where to start.
Now for some reason most of his photos are not coming up for me.
 
kok328 said:
Something is wired wrong. Jumerping W & Y should not do anything, especially not turn on the blower fan.
Also, you should not be getting voltage when checking R to W & Y.
There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the removable door panels.
Click to expand...

Here is what I am dealing with. Maybe you can figure it out a little better than I?

15942657_1624290157597370_2051754954_o.jpg


15943128_1624290174264035_564591058_o.jpg


15934602_1624290187597367_748485404_n.jpg
 
MORE PICS!!!

Here are some real time images.

Thermostat.
15933933_1624286564264396_1384782926_o.jpg


Connections to thermostat.
15942077_1624286637597722_214526457_n.jpg


2 of these go to the 24V converter. Other goes to Fan Motor.
15943129_1624286487597737_1554518985_o.jpg


Not sure what these are for except the door switch.
15935413_1624286630931056_668436811_o.jpg
 
yeah, i set the video to where only i can see it. i'll change my settings to public so you can click on the link and it should show up. let me know if you can see it or not. and neal, you have been great through all of this!
 
reap70 said:
yeah, i set the video to where only i can see it. i'll change my settings to public so you can click on the link and it should show up. let me know if you can see it or not. and neal, you have been great through all of this!
Click to expand...

Did you say you had changed the control board and which two wires are giving you that spark, and that spark does not blow the 3 amp fuse?
 
I finally got around to getting a brand new control board and hooked it up and still getting a spark when jumping the R (hot wire) & W (call for heat) spots on the thermostat connections on the control board. And the R & Y (Call for cold) still works ok; ie, blower motor starts.

And to answer an above question, yes it does blow the fuse.

I'm ready to throw in the white towel on this and call an expert. Better start saving some money before summer hits! LOL
 
Just a random thought, but are the other ends of those wires hooked up to the right terminals? If the other end is cross wired, you would see sparks when you make contact at this end.
 
I have pondered the same thing. But I have horrible news. Last week, we lost our house to a fire. We were not home, but our dog Hogan passed away. We may never figure out the solution. I want to thank you all again for your patience and time you took to help me.
 
Sorry for the loss of the home and especially the dog we know they are family members.

Will you covered by insurance?
 
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