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New ceiling light question.
- Thread starter tacoeater
- Start date
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Thanks.
How was the dining rm. fixture connected before?
It was connected to that single wire and to the two twisted wires. The three grouped wires were tucked in the way they are now.
Yes, thats all of them, but I did noticed that they came into the box from different directions. Did you get my edit where I forgot to mention in my original post that the free wire in my switch box is live/hot with power on at the breaker box? View attachment IMG_9649.jpg
The single black wire looks like the one that should go on and off when you flip the switch.
The one with blacks and a white is the constant hot. Take the tape off and put on a wire nut. Do not remove any of the wires from the bunch.
Connect the new fixture to the single black and the bunch of whites with wire nuts.
The one with blacks and a white is the constant hot. Take the tape off and put on a wire nut. Do not remove any of the wires from the bunch.
Connect the new fixture to the single black and the bunch of whites with wire nuts.
Thanks again.
Ok hold off on separating the conductors mentioned.
In reviewing the photos, it appears the there is a combination of Knob and Tube and romex, which amplifies the discussion, and raises some questions.
In the attic are there individual conductors held off the sides of the ceiling joists by ceramic knobs and when they run through framing members there is a ceramic tube?
Ok hold off on separating the conductors mentioned.
In reviewing the photos, it appears the there is a combination of Knob and Tube and romex, which amplifies the discussion, and raises some questions.
In the attic are there individual conductors held off the sides of the ceiling joists by ceramic knobs and when they run through framing members there is a ceramic tube?
The single black wire looks like the one that should go on and off when you flip the switch.
The one with blacks and a white is the constant hot. Take the tape off and put on a wire nut. Do not remove any of the wires from the bunch.
Connect the new fixture to the single black and the bunch of whites with wire nuts.
The single one and the 3 grouped ones are always constant hot, I have a probe, the two grouped together have no power and also dont get power when I flip the switch but not sure if its because the fixture is disconnected.
Thanks again.
Ok hold off on separating the conductors mentioned.
In reviewing the photos, it appears the there is a combination of Knob and Tube and romex, which amplifies the discussion, and raises some questions.
In the attic are there individual conductors held off the sides of the ceiling joists by ceramic knobs and when they run through framing members there is a ceramic tube?
I only have about 2 feet of crawl space in my attic, plus all the ducts from my ac/heater unit all in the way. I do remember seeing a J box in a far corner where all the wires come out of. To drop the new wiring to the switch and to the new fixture was a nightmare for me being 6 tall and 275lbs. Something I dont want to go thru again. I really appreciate all your time guys, but its looking like this job is not for me.
Don't give up yet, we're getting closer, we just need to understand your wiring.
Are the 2 twisted conductors hot with the switch on?
With the fixture disconnected no. But not sure if that matters. Switch on or off no power on it.
I only have about 2 feet of crawl space in my attic, plus all the ducts from my ac/heater unit all in the way. I do remember seeing a J box in a far corner where all the wires come out of. To drop the new wiring to the switch and to the new fixture was a nightmare for me being 6 tall and 275lbs. Something I dont want to go thru again. I really appreciate all your time guys, but its looking like this job is not for me.
2', that's funny, been there done that in the LA basin.
With the fixture disconnected no. But not sure if that matters. Switch on or off no power on it.
Doesn't matter, I'm pretty sure it's switched, that's the neutral and thats what we need for the new fixture, just not one that's switched.
You that with your proximity voltage tester there is voltage on the 3 conductors wrapped in tape. Are they all white?
Doesn't matter, I'm pretty sure it's switched, that's the neutral and thats what we need for the new fixture, just not one that's switched.
You that with your proximity voltage tester there is voltage on the 3 conductors wrapped in tape. Are they all white?
No, looks like one white and two blacks. View attachment IMG_9650.jpg
Sorry for the delay, and the disassembly, its been a long time since I've worked on K&T.
I think you're correct, you'll need a local tradesman. the 2 blacks and white are probably a switch and a couple of receptacles.
I think you're correct, you'll need a local tradesman. the 2 blacks and white are probably a switch and a couple of receptacles.
Sorry for the delay, and the disassembly, its been a long time since I've worked on K&T.
I think you're correct, you'll need a local tradesman. the 2 blacks and white are probably a switch and a couple of receptacles.
Hey no worries, I really appreciate the effort. Thanks.
Hook up a test light to the single black and the neutrals and turn on the switch. What happens.
Sorry about the delay. No change with switch on or off. Everything connected it did turn the light on and off. But switch off or on there is power to the single wire and the 3 grouped wires.
Everything connected it did turn the light on and off
So what is the problem? the light goes on and off with the switch. What else do you want to happen?
I suspect you are using a digital meter and getting a phantom voltage reading.
Last edited:
Just to clarify, In post #18 you said; "I probed the wires and the single wire is the live hot one.", has that changed?
Yes, the single wire is a hot live wire and also the 3 grouped wires are hot.
