Is the motor free to spin? Nothing fell in or is resting against a moving part? Just a couple of simple things to check.
It spun freely. My multimeter told me zero for the capacitor, so I'm guessing that's it unless my meter is not good enough.
Do you know where I can get one with long terminals?
Yes the motor is toast and it had nothing to do with the filter change it was purely coincidental.
No, you do not need a puller to change the motor.
You managed to get the blower and housing out of the unit, that is good.
Now you need to loosen the set screw on the hub of the blower wheel with a long handled allen wrench.
Then remove the 3 motor frame bolts from the housing.
From there you can separate the motor from the wheel and housing and will be able to see the "nameplate" info on the motor to order a new one.
Again, Graingers has your back. The only reason I recommend them is that they will sell to you without a contractor's license, can locate just about anything and is a common name when I don't know what suppliers are around your locale.
Pull the capacitor out, it's usually strapped to the blower housing. Look at how many microfarads and volts it's rated at or take it to an electronics store. Or look on eBay, just make sure you get a replacement with the same values. Thief melting frost on the a coil could have damaged the capacitor, rusted the shaft at the bearing on the motor and caused it to seize, or otherwise damage the blower.
Before you put it all back together, consider doing a thorough cleaning of the a coil. If you ran it any length of time without a filter, or that was a normal practice from a previous owner, then putting a filter in now, won't help the fact that you're coil fins are clogged with garbage and causing a lack of airflow and therefore causing your coil to freeze up.
Thank you.
I pulled this screw out with an adjustable wrench. Is this the set screw you're talking about? I took out the 3 motor frame bolts also.
I still can't get the motor detached from the wheel. There's a piece I can turn independently of the wheel (red arrow in picture) if I hold the wheel still, but this doesn't cause the motor to come loose, even after turning it with a wrench for several minutes in either direction.
Does anyone know how to hook these wires up?
7 wires total. The ground is obvious, as are the 2 for the capacitor.
That leaves me with a black, blue, red, and white. I believe that the black, blue, and red are all hot wires, and the white is a neutral.
From the wiring diagram, it looks like I might be supposed to pick one of the hot wires, and cap the other two? What do I connect the "chosen" hot wire to? I believe this fan is only one speed, so which do I pick?
I have a few questions about the disconnects.
Can I crimp them with these wire cutters, or do I need a special crimping tool? The wires pictured are from the old motor. The old motor had more plastic insulation than the new disconnects that I bought. Do I need to buy additional insulation to attach the these new female disconnects?
Also, I can't quite figure out how to reattach the neutral (yellow) wire to the unit. It had two yellow wires (one from motor, one from elsewhere) going to a connector within the unit. (Pic attached of connection before it was disassembled). Now I'm looking at all these same parts, and can't figure out how to connect two female disconnects to the same terminal.
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