No header or jack studs on a sliding glass door.

Hello. I have finished replacing some rotted sub flooring by a sliding glass door that opens to a second-floor deck, and have installed flashing that was not there previously (and which contributed to the problem). I have also replaced some of the bottom plate on each side of the door, as about an inch of it on each side of the door suffered the same water damage as the floor.

In the process I discovered that there is are no jack studs supporting a header (see photo). There are 3 king studs along each the side, and a 2x4 cross the top, but it isn't sitting on jack studs. This is a 20 year old house and the door was installed at the time of construction.



The door is close to a corner of the room and is on a wall that supports the low end of a cathedral ceiling (photo).



My question is if I should retrofit a header with jack studs?

If I were do to this, I would add a 4th king stud and then cut the studs closest to each side of the door to sit a header on top...

Questions:

1. Should I install a header, 20 years after this door was installed?
2. If so, is the process described above the right one?

Any and all advice would be most welcome!

Thanks.

I see 2 jacks and king, you will find the header 3" below the ceiling.
Poke a dowel or something up inside you will feel it, it will be closer to the outside of the wall.

Well how 'bout that. There it is. Just like you said. Thanks for taking the time for what must have seemed like a silly question!

REK said:

Well how 'bout that. There it is. Just like you said. Thanks for taking the time for what must have seemed like a silly question!

Click to expand...

Here having them high is what we do, but in lot's of places you would expect to find them where you were looking.

Another related question--I still need to install a sill pan for the door... What is the best approach? Fabricate one out of metal (I have read that in the cold, metal can conduct the cold towards the inside and cause condensation)? Vinyl? Is using flashing adhesive to seal the overlapping material when forming the ends of the pan? Are the "adjustable-length" pans any good?

Thanks for your advice.

(Because of the topic I posted elsewhere too, but I'd be grateful for Nealtw's advice)

The idea of a hard pan came in after I retired so I have not dealt with them or have a preference. I had not heard about a condensation issue but I guess it could be real.
How much better vinyl would be would just be a guess.
I could see if the window was not sealed to that pan on the inside, cold air may have a path in and make more condensation. But I don't think any way you do it, it will not pick up or deal with condensation that happens on the living space side.
Perhaps just adding another shoe molding would stop air from getting to the cold surface.

All of my sill pans I made from sheet lead (I buy it in rolls 10" wide). I formed the lead along the base and up the sides and around the face about 6".