Modern Radiator install (Hot water only)

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JHopkins

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Location
Export, PA
I just did an addition adding a first floor 5 x14 room for a bathroom with schluter dita-heat electric floor and a second floor room which is 13.5 x 13.5 and currently has no heat. We have a boiler that circulates hot water through 3/4 inch copper to 3/4 inch baseboard radiators throughout our house. My wife does not like the baseboard heaters because they take up the entire wall. So, for the bedroom I ordered the cast aluminum Fondital Blitz Ardesia gray / 8 element / B4 500 which is supposed to produce 4288 BTUs with water temp at 176 ° F. Then I questioned myself. Can I mix the one cast aluminum radiator in with the rest of the system being baseboards. Not sure if this makes a difference, but the new radiator will be connected on its own feed and return with a regulator valve on the feed line coming right off the boiler. I plan to use 3/4 oxygen barrier pex to complete he new run which already exists from the baseboard heater that I cut out of the kitchen. Also, if this will work, does it matter if the thermostatic valve connecting the radiator is 1/2 or 3/4 inch to match the 3/4 inch run and the rest of the 3/4 inch system. Many of the thermostatic radiator valve that I have seen are 1/2 inch. I don't want to stress the circulating pump. Thank you for your help!
 
Wouldn't a tankless water heater work?
 
I think you can mix and match the two.



Will you run a new zone or put it inline with the flow you have now?



If it is a new zone I don’t see any problems.
 
it depends, the real question is what is the design temp ( supply water temp ) for the two radiator types. if one design temp is 140 f and the other is 176 you can see that the one that is 140 will out heat the other one, in fact the 176 room will be stone cold.
 
I think you can mix and match the two.



Will you run a new zone or put it inline with the flow you have now?



If it is a new zone I don’t see any problems.
I believe this will effectively be a new zone. There are currently 3 feed lines coming off the large copper line coming out of the boiler. Each line has Orange handed values and Blue handled drain valves. There are also 3 return lines. The one line and return only went to the Baseboard heater in the kitchen, but I cut that out, so that one feed and return is not in use, and I intend to connect to it with the pex line ans run that to the radiator. All that to say, yes, I believe that puts the new radiator on its own zone.
 
it depends, the real question is what is the design temp ( supply water temp ) for the two radiator types. if one design temp is 140 f and the other is 176 you can see that the one that is 140 will out heat the other one, in fact the 176 room will be stone cold.
I don't know what the water temp is, but I will take a look tomorrow when the furnace kicks on as I just noticed that there is a thermostat on the side of the boiler. I do know that the Fondital Blitz listed the BTUS based on 176 degrees F and I think the Baseboards work on that temperature, but I will find out for sure.
 
I don't know what the water temp is, but I will take a look tomorrow when the furnace kicks on as I just noticed that there is a thermostat on the side of the boiler. I do know that the Fondital Blitz listed the BTUS based on 176 degrees F and I think the Baseboards work on that temperature, but I will find out for sure.
It is not what the boiler temp is set for, but rather what the manufacture say you will get this much heat from every rad if you give them this supply water temp. I remember going on service call where the customer had old fashion cast iron rads and so a renovator had removed the cast iron rads because the were so big and replaced them with copper fin rads. the rooms with cast iron rads were over heat and the rooms with copper fin rads were cold. I found out that the cast iron rads wanted a supply water temp of just 140 degress and the copper fin rad wanted 180 degrees . You can not mix cast iron rads with copper finn
 
It is not what the boiler temp is set for, but rather what the manufacture say you will get this much heat from every rad if you give them this supply water temp. I remember going on service call where the customer had old fashion cast iron rads and so a renovator had removed the cast iron rads because the were so big and replaced them with copper fin rads. the rooms with cast iron rads were over heat and the rooms with copper fin rads were cold. I found out that the cast iron rads wanted a supply water temp of just 140 degress and the copper fin rad wanted 180 degrees . You can not mix cast iron rads with copper finn
ok, I believe, although not positive, that the round thermostat on the side of the boiler indicates the supply water temperature. I watched it yesterday when the furnace kicked on and it heated up to 180 degrees F. The baseboard heaters are 3/4 copper with silver aluminum fins have existed in this house for as long as I have owned it (15 years), so I am guessing that is the correct water temperature for those to operate. The new modern radiator is for hot water systems only and is Cast Aluminum. The heat output or BTUs listed on the website is based on an average water temperature of 176 degrees F. So, I believe that it will work! My only question now is will it matter if I use a 1/2-inch or a 3/4-inch valve to install the modern Cast Aluminum radiator. I don't want to strain the circulation pump, so I will go with a 3/4-inch valve unless I find out differently, since all of the runs and returns on the system are 3/4-inch. Thank you for your help! It is very much appreciated.
 
ok, I believe, although not positive, that the round thermostat on the side of the boiler indicates the supply water temperature. I watched it yesterday when the furnace kicked on and it heated up to 180 degrees F. The baseboard heaters are 3/4 copper with silver aluminum fins have existed in this house for as long as I have owned it (15 years), so I am guessing that is the correct water temperature for those to operate. The new modern radiator is for hot water systems only and is Cast Aluminum. The heat output or BTUs listed on the website is based on an average water temperature of 176 degrees F. So, I believe that it will work! My only question now is will it matter if I use a 1/2-inch or a 3/4-inch valve to install the modern Cast Aluminum radiator. I don't want to strain the circulation pump, so I will go with a 3/4-inch valve unless I find out differently, since all of the runs and returns on the system are 3/4-inch. Thank you for your help! It is very much appreciated.
I see no trouble. yes to the 3/4 , do not forget a bleeder purger .
 
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