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TXDIYRookie

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AS my screen indicates I'm a rookie. In trying to remove my bathroom sink the metal piping melted in my hand from hard water silt. I'm trying to replace the piping and was told that I could connect new plastic piping to the metal piping coming from the wall.

The wall pipe does not have threads and I attempted to attach a thread adapter and could not get a tight seal. I'm have a p-trap kit, extension piping, primer, cement, teflon thread sealant, joint compound....just don't know how to use them correctly.

Thanks for any help you can give.

The rookie!!
 
I'm not a plumber.

I can't help but wonder if this is a drain line or a fresh water line.

Is it copper or galvanized? Black iron pipe?

Chrome plated supply line?

A threaded adaptor has to have a clean sealing surface. You can use sandpaper to clean it.

When you say you have a P trap kit, I assume you are working on a drain line. Have you tried a transition adaptor? It's a rubber fitting with pipe clamps on each end. It is typically used to convert from iron to plastic. They come in many sizes and may be available at your local home center.
 
Thank you for the info. It is a galvanized pipe for a drain line. I'll look for the transition adapter and try cleaning the pipe once again.

Appreciate the help.
 
Hey Tx:
I am a plumber and I would suggest trying to unscrew the pipe that stiks out, replace it with an equal length pipe threaed on both ends, put the teflon tape on the new pipe (2 or 3 wraps) and screw it into the wall fitting. Now, teflon tape on the exposed end, put a plastic trap adapter on and you should have instructions with your new p-trap from there. Nothin' to it, if you know how to do it, huh?
Glenn
 
Glenn, thanks for your help. Of course you always start out doing one task and end up with more. The pipe from the wall has only about 2-3 inches exposed. Sounds like I need to cut away the drywall to try and find the connecting threads. My fear is that since the extension tube leading to the ptrap was soldered to this pipe I may find the same thing in the wall. A soldering tool is something I do not have in my tool kit.

Kim
 
Well glenn's advice is solid. the drain pipe was soldered to the galv coming from the wall?? is the wall pipe a real heavy looking thing?
 
The pipe is thicker and heavier than the extension piece and previous trap that was originally attached. Really heavy looking though no. Wish me luck I have the coarse sandpaper on hand and I'm ready to finish this!
 
If all else fails, since this is a drain line, go to the automotive department of whatever store you choose. Pick up a tube of Permatex part 2 adhesive. This stuff will fill the imperfections in the pipe and help you get a sealable surface to work with. It just might be tough enough to glue the pipe together. I keep the biggest tubes of that stuff around that I can find. It works great on water pumps and diff cover gaskets too!

Duct tape, wire ties, WD-40, adjustable wrenches, BFH, pocket knife and Permatex part 2; save the world.
 
Hey TX:
Hold on there! Don't cut the drywall or try to thread something on where there are no threads; and you can't glue plastic to steel pipe. If you have 2 or 3 inches sticking out you can put a pipe wrench or big channel-loks (My son gave me a 16" pair and nothing can refuse to turn with them) on it and push down just see if it doesn't start screwing out of the wall. I'm not a TX plumber and all states are different but that pipe screwed in is the most accepted way.
Happy Trails, Cowpoke
Glenn
 
Square Eye said:
Duct tape, wire ties, WD-40, adjustable wrenches, BFH, pocket knife and Permatex part 2; save the world.

are wire ties, tie wire? around here we use marine-tex or super mend.
 
Thanks to all for your words of wisdom. After reaching inside the wall I could feel another "seam" but no threading. I'm afraid to use the wrench since the first set of piping I removed riped apart. I used the rubber fitting with the clamps at each end which seems to have worked fine.

I got the water lines back on and tested. Everything worked great for about one minute. The water started to leak out of the ptrap joints and the extender connections. I took those apart and used thread sealant reattached and let it setup overnight. It appears that the water is not leaving the ptrap and going out the extender through the wall.

This was the original problem...the sink took hours to drain. It seems as though the water is actually not pushing out of the trap to the drain pipe out of the wall. I'm just about to give up.

Thanks to everyone for your input.

Kim
 
Got to any home store or plumbing supply and pick up the size coupling you need.
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connect it to your existing pipe and then to your p trap from the sink.
 
Thanks I did manage to accomplish that. And it appears to be working. However my new challenge is the water leaking at the joining points between the p-trap and the extender and to the sink. It's as though the water is not exiting the p-trap through the wall but rather building back up and coming out around the thread washers. Also causing slow drain in the sink.

Kim
 
If your drain is backing up and leaking then you have a clog somewhere. You can try a small drain snake directly into the pipe going into the wall and see if you can reach it from there. How are the drains for the other fixtures in this bathroom? normal or slow.
 
The bathtub drains normally. This full bath shares a wall with a 1/2 bath in which that sink drains fine. Today I purchased a device to place on the end of my garden hose to place in the wall pipe and hopefully "shoot" out the clog. When I had tried Draino in the past the fix only worked for a day or two.

More after this new adventure.
 
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