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The only issue with leaving it is that a buyers home inspector (possibility if they are sharp) will notice and tell the prospective buyer. Then the buyer will want you to "fix" the unit as a condition of sale. I recommend pulling it out or fixing it up.

Algae, bugs, ice in the winter will all block the drain. You should have safety switch that cuts off the unit when there is an overflow. Also, you need to clean the drain at this point since its already blocked. If you have maintenance with an HVAC company, they should clean it once or twice a...

Sounds like the systems is not designed correctly and there are airflow issues causing your system to overwork and fail. I would get the system inspected by a few reputable companies in the area and see what they say about the design. You may get the original contractor to do something, but...

Furnaces in crawlspaces are tough. Not only are they hard to get to when you need to replace the filter or maintain them, but they leak and if there is any air gaps in the plenum the unit will pull nasty air in from the crawspace. I just did a rental house rehab with this exact problem and...

Yes, they are called "toners" and you can get them at the box store. The only thing is you want to make sure the circuit is completely dead before you tone it and start from the beginning of the circuit.

What if its a dead end 3-way? If its a 12/3 or 14/3, it's most likely for a 3-way tapped in the fixture and will not have a neutral.

You will have to see how the circuit is wired. If the switch is "key" which means the original electrician only sent a switch leg down to the switch from the light you cannot use it. If you have a neutral than you can. The easiest way to check is to see how many wires come from the switch box...

Multi location dimmers are easy to install once you get this one concept. The blue is a signal wire not a switched wire. When you are retrofiting with multi location dimmers its easiest just to undue all the taps in the box related to the original 3way switch and start from scratch. The...

If you are going to go the GFI route, I recommend replacing all the outlets with GFI's. Otherwise, you will lose power to a whole circuit everytime a GFI trips...which can be often if your running an entire house on GFI's. When you install the outlets use the "Line" side only. Then you can...

Are you going to rewire the outlets upstairs? It might be a good idea to run an extra circuit so you have room when it comes time to do the outlets.

You would have to do a load calculation to know for sure, but ya, you have 150As. Lots of multi unit buildings have main breakers that are less then the sum of the individual unit disconnects. The sizing of the main is based on a load calculation (found in the NEC) which adds up the expected use...

As long as its not blocking the panel. You need 36" in front of the electrical panel and 30" left or right of the panel for working clearance space. It appears to be fine in this pic.

You could make this argument about all safety laws. Seatbelts are a major inconvenience and you may never "need" one. People "get away" with drunk driving everyday but that does not mean you ought to do it. Open splices are dangerous and lead to fires but not every splice will lead to a...

BTW, any plans to have that panel changed? You may want to Google "federal pacific panel" and see what comes up. For fun you can add the words "fire" "lawsuit" "deaths" and "safe."

Yes, you will need a new circuit for a new water heater even a small one. I think water heaters are sized on the number of showers. That is the biggest factor. 120V means the type of voltage. When you say a new breaker your talking about handling load/amperage/available power to run your water...

Siemens is the brand we prefer. They make a good panel with copper bus bars and are a good company. Square D is also a quality panel but is a little pricey. I would steer clear of GE...IMO.

If the main breaker is located in the same box. Then no, there will still be power in the panel feeding the top of the main breaker. If the main breaker is located outside then probably yes. Most electricians test for power even after during off a main breaker. We have all seen some oddball...

Sounds pretty typical for new construction. FYI, the switches don't pull any power, they just control the lights. Also, the outlets only pull as much power as you plug in. (you can overload a 20A circuit with one outlet by plugging in two space heaters).

Agreed. If you are making the effort this is the way to go. A 60A sub panel generally covers most expansion.

At 9' the spread should be about 4' with 6" lights. Its best to overlap alittle and when in doubt go with more light and add a dimmer.