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IMHO, it's far more important that the substrate is solid than particularly flat or uniform. A tile setter can make up some variance with thinset, and in fact, all tilesetters do this routinely, to meet heights of other floors etc. If your backing boards are solid, you have no worries...

You can successfully "float" tiles on a thicker bed of mastic if you need too... or you could try the kerdi-cloth from schluter, with thinset cement, and put a bit more cement in certain places. Then you tile on top of the cloth (which is waterproof - a very slick system). It's easier to...

I have no experience with that. Some of the new products are miracles, and some are snake oil... hard to tell without about 20 years behind...

Especially with the underlays available, tile is a better and better option. It's not hard for the DIY crowd to do a creditable job, and it is more easily repairable than hardwood. Combined with in floor heat, it's a great choice for a lot of hard-use spaces.

Very easily done - windows and doors are framed so that the hole is supported by the beam - that is, the studs on the side are doing all the supporting work... so if you pull out that door, and frame in some stuff at the bottom, then you can install a similarly sized window with ease. Most...

Those tubs rule. I've made a LOT of shelves to fit those tubs.

Shinier finishes, gloss or semi-gloss, tend to be best durability wise, but show up imperfections quite a bit.. so lower glosses tend to be used. I agree with the others- brand is not so important as buying good paint within any brand... That is, buy the top end latex, with as much acrylic as...

No offense sonof, but why on earth would you plane a 2x4 even if they are marginally different from one another? We're talking about a shed here, not a piano. I build big sheds like tiny houses - build a floor out of 2x6 or 2x8, and sheet it with 3/4 " treated ply, and then build walls and...

If you are leasing, chopping some new electrical into the ceiling is just not really an option. What you need is some kind of light fixture that you can plug in but suspend from the ceiling. IKEA or a lighting store might just have something like that.

The best way to do this properly is to put a piece of wood between the ceiling joists, (connected with screws) and then you can screw the box for the chandelier (same for ceiling fans) right to it. Sonof is right - this isn't a job for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. My wife...

If you mean those little moonbeams or whatever they're called, I don't think they're very hard at all. The whole string of lights is the "appliance" so code doesn't even come into it. Just stick em in and hide the wire. If you are looking to suspend proper exterior lights, then you need...

The thing I'm most impressed with is Milwaukee's support. You can email them, and ... they respond!! It's amazing.

Agreed... Crafstman has really gone from almost top-of-the-line to almost bottom-of-the-barrel. The "Home Handyman" dominates the market, I guess, which is to say that Sears is happy to sell a hundred thousand crappy tools instead of one thousand really good ones. DeWalt spans that gap, being...

I'm from Canada - right now I'm eating some frozen fish and watching the whale-races live on black and white TV. ;)

For me, a security door is a big hunk of steel, in a steel frame. Anything other than that, I can kick down unless some or other miracle-device is employed. Commercial-grade prehung doors are not difficult to order from many lumber / building materials suppliers. They usually come with the...

What's everybody's favorite tool? What makes your heart pound? What turned into a huge disappointment? For me, my favorite tool, after many years, is a Makita Framing saw... that thing has cut a lot of stuff, and I still love it every time I pick it up. Biggest dissapointment for me...

It also lets your shingles live about 10 years longer. Shingles fail much faster if there's no air-space below the sheeting on the roof to provide some cooling.

That would scratch up in about 5 minutes, and just look terrible. You'll do WAY better to find the cheapest laminate floor available (like, under $1 per square foot) and throw that down. There are lots of factory seconds, and defect grade floors that are really just about perfect. I put one...

I would not call genuine hardwood a real great choice for most kitchens. Anything dropped will mar it, you'll have to refinish it every couple of years for the wear, god help you if you manage to spill wine in a crack.... Tile, laminate, or lino are far more popular in kitchens for a reason...

Heheh.... well... you can get a stump-grinder in, you can attack it with a chainsaw... I don't know if there is a chemical that will break down wood without doing ridiculous harm to other things around it...