Search results

Thanks Glenn. I know my uncle has a crazy jack that he has used for stuff like this, Ill check with him to see if its that big. As far as lifting distance, I dont think I will need more than a half inch anyways. Its probably less than 1/4 too high where its attached to the perpendicular joist.

All you have to do is make sure that you have a switched light at each entry door and that you have calculated the load based on the fixtures that you are using. Remember that flourescent lights are to be calculated by the rating of the ballast not the bulbs. If you are adding ceiling fans to...

I know this is an old thread but I didnt want to start a new one for the same thing. I was just wondering what type of setup I should use to lift the floor of the fireplace on the outside of the house. What I mean is, the underside of the chimney is a couple of feet off the ground outside...

First off I totally agree with the mold suggestions. Mold is a huge problem with standing water, and once it gets started its very hard to totally get rid of. If there is water getting into the duct work you may have bigger problems than just the water in the ducts. For instance how the water...

I was thinking there would be something like that. I found the piece that goes from the 6" duct between the joists and 90's into the wall. But I couldnt seem to find the actual duct that would extend down in the wall. A friend of mine suggested just putting sheet metal on both sides and...

So is the 3x12 duct something I can buy or would I need to bend it up myself? Also since only one side will be drywalled for now should I just cover the other side with a peice of sheet metal?

Just wondering what the standard approach is to running a new heat duct down the inside of wall. The wall in question is 2x4 construction and is not funished but will be drywalled soon after the duct is installed. Also would the same practice be applied to the return?

My buddy is going to come out this weekend to move the gas line. Im thinking we are just going to stick with the black pipe that is already in there. I did get the electrical finished up last night so thats off the list.

That is pretty cool. I have a good friend that is a licensed master plumber Ill have him look in to weather or not I can use it. This could make moving the washer and dryer upstairs much eaiser. Thanks Wesley. Just a quick update, I have the window in and the room framed as well. It took...

That must be some kind of new flexible line. I know that using the traditional flex lines for more than a few feet is a big no no. And I understand why. Do you have any information about the type of pipe that was used?

Update: Had my plumber buddy stop by and take a look. Looks like I can just move the pipe with minimal effort. Just need a couple of fittings and a short length of pipe. I can run it tight to the beam, since I will already have about 10" of space and an acess panel on that side of the beam.

Cool, thanks for all your help Glenn. I may actually get this done before the snow flies. Still gotta finish that bedroom project though.

So are you just saying to temporarilly lift it from the out side, disconnect the steel brackets, level the floor, reattach the brackets and then I could remove the "jacks"? That would be nice to not have anything permenently installed under the chimney. What do you mean by 4 legs of steel...

Glenn, strange to see your reply. lol You hit it on the head. The inside of the fireplace is a couple of peices of some fake stone fire stop stuff, and the chimney is just wood and vinyl siding with a pipe going up through it. @harleysilo- Im not replacing the floor yet. Later on I plan to...

I have been contemplating how to address this issue since I bought this house and discovered it. The floor in front of my fire place is raised slightly. When I went into the basement to see what could be causing this I found that the fireplace was simply placed on perpendicular floor joists...

I recently discovered a new method; Right up to the side of my basement wall I dug a hole 38x52x42, the next morning there was a dead mole in the bottom. I know seems like a large hole, but you could always put in an egress window when you are done. Thats what I did anyways:D

Great thanks guys. The return Im thinking of splitting is one that uses the whole space between floor joists and it only goes to one room so I think that will be sufficient for the two rooms. For the heat supply I will cut back the vent that is in the ceiling and run it into the wall down...

Thanks Glenn and Hube. I think I have it figured out. My brother told me that it is ok to split an existing cold air return and run it to this room as well. Is that correct? If it is than I can run that to the SE corner and it would be pretty easy to run the heat in the NW corner of the room.

Thanks guys. The size of the room is about 8'-8" x 13'-4". I say about cause Im not totally done drawing it. If you check my post in the Framing section (Post#9), I have a drawing that is pretty close to current. Im planning on adding R13 in the finished portion of the exterior walls but...

Yea thats what I think Im gonna end up with. Maybe later when I can get in to put up some better finish work Ill try to make up some thing a little better. I already have a support post to box in so Ill have some inspiration going. Thanks for all your help.