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but, for the $$$, i'd grind OFF the paint w/diamond cup wheel,,, not a wtr-bas'd epoxy fan,,, 1, just as slippery; 2, epoxies're never recommend'd for ext use; & 3, life's short on this mtl,,, as w/anything else, prep's more important than anything else.

cement mtls that we often use to fill ' birdbaths ' including ' feather-edging ',,, prep is MOST important however the new will not match the old's color,,, depending on your comfort level, might consider this alternative suggestion.

as gc's but do dec conc enhancements ourselves,,, residential flatness is always suspect,,, you might consider gypsum self-leveling mixes but downside's the owners rarely go for the long $$$ as most h/o's are cheap. when we run into this work, we either use scarifiers & grinders to level OR...

many houses down here're blt on pedestals,,, sounds as if the bldr didn't have his elevations nutz-on so had to shim,,, 10t hydraulic jack & some oak shims'll work fine when you get 'round to it. you've got the advantage of actually SEEING this marvelous dwelling, tho,,, may need a carrier...

altho, if it were my house, i'd look at atlas piers 1st & permalock 2nd

morn' once we've had to replace the old soft brick because repairs were done w/modern mortar which's much more inflexible than old limes,,, sometimes, because of color but, more usually, the old bricks crack'd due to tension, expansion, & compression. also, its VERY rare that proper...

repair but have only been doing this for 35yrs,,, that's 1 big pinhole, btw,,, there needs to be ' flashing ' & drainage,,, flashing could be membrane but drainage is gravity ONLY,,, whatever repair method is chosen, you'll need some guarantee,,, not certain the std h/o warranty's worthwhile...

w/tensile strength - they're different. in order for your ramp to be legal, i'd use carriage bolts & a fitch plate making it ' temporary ' & removeable,,, then block the entry so passage's block'd other'n for the dog,,, far's ' attaching ' it to the deck, i wouldn't,,, just support the end...

a, there's a cure for ignorance but stupid's fatal; b, no matter how many forums or labels you read, experience still requires dirty hands & work knees; & c, you can't get 5gal of wtr into a 4gal bucket no matter how smart you are OR how hard you try

might've been where, originally, expansion jnt mtl was placed OR where a form was removed,,, you can use a closed cell backer rod to stuff in it & then seal w/an appropriate sealant, NOT caulk,,, the backer rod'll provide the correct depth:width ratio IF you installed it correctly,,, you don't...

you but someone else may benefit,,, old stone walls're usually mortar'd in place,,, soil acids attack mortar's lime which leaches OUT leaving the sand,,, this happens above ground AND below as well,,, repointing's always proper,,, HOWEVER, can't repoint wall's exterior w/o full excavation to the...

prosoco or sonneborn but there're many other brands avail,,, make certain you remove ALL the bad mortar & pressure wash to clean sufficiantly,,, then, if you wish, get mortar-in-a-bag,,, we also use mason's socks ( think cake decorating ) & pointing tools.

repoint as needed & then give it several coats of silicone siloxane - probably your best bang for the $

a bosch brute breaking gun rents for $75 day,,, if its a 4" patio, not a day's work to break it,,, 10cy containers're $400 here incl tipping fees - there, i dunno, but you need to know SOMETHING, right ? ? ? :D

i doubt the dampproofing fail'd if install'd correctly as its only an asphalt emulsion, anyway - it wasn't waterproof'd, tho,,, dampproofing's only a few mils thick.